THE UNSPOKEN RULES

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/10/26/fashion-by-the-rules-unspoken-rules/

SPOTTED!!!!!

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/10/19/fashion-by-the-rules-the-non-classic-classic/

PARIS SPRING 2010 LOUIS VUITTON- HERMES

LOUIS VUITTON-try as I might to understand and every time I think I get it I realize that I will never understand the hoopla involved in a collection that is not offered to retailers and is only sold in their own stores ..........................no matter how much print is devoted to it ......the clothes are unwearable--wildly expensive and frankly ---------------not pretty on anyone of any age --thank god they make their money on handbags -------------the only thing I cannot shake from my head is that Marc Jacobs does this purposely as to poke fun at the entire fashion business

HERMES-Why is it that Gaultier can deliver this wildly tasteful-effortless- timeless-understated and flawless collection and the above mentioned is such a mess..................it is just a pleasure to watch and a delight to see
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-HERMES

PARIS SPRING 2010 CHANEL-MCQUEEN-VALENTINO

CHANEL--VIVA KARL! VIVA COCO! VIVA PARIS!-THIS IS A WATERSHED COLLECTION THAT COULD ONLY HAVE BEEN DELIVERED AT CHANEL AND ONLY DELIVERED BY KAISER KARL.....IT IS GOOD TO BE KING !!!!----THERE IS LITTLE FAULT TO BE FOUND WITH THE "FARM GIRL" COLLECTION .............THIS IS THE PERFECT EXAMPLE OF HOW A DESIGNER USED THE DNA - THE LEGACY OF THE BRAND AND TURNED IT INTO A POWERHOUSE.............FROM THE CLOGS TO THE HANDBAGS TO THE SHOES TO THE SUITS TO THE LACE TO THE CHAIN TATTOOS ON THE WRISTS AND LEGS ........IT IS A TRIUMPH TO DELIVER CLOTHES THAT WILL BE COMMERCIALLY ACCEPTED AS WELL AS EDITORIALLY ACCEPTED ON THIS LEVEL . ...CASH REGISTERS WILL RING AND CLIENTS WILL BE HAPPY AND THIS WILL DRAW OUT THE SHY SHOPPER WHO HAS BEEN HIDING FOR THE PAST YEAR
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-CHANEL/


VALENTINO-The duo who inherited the monumental job of proceeding the "chic" of fashion have succeeded in bringing their own influence to the brand without forgoing much of its inherent DNA...................I wish they had used some color like red!!! to further their new vision but still the clothes were as refined-light- tasteful - and younger......gone were the day clothes and the suits that made ladies swoon but I think they will return for fall and hopefully with the couture . It will be interesting to follow the collection and see if this new vision holds up
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VALENTIN/

ALEXANDER McQUEEN --rarely am I given to lauding praise on any designer but I am compelled this season to do it for ALEXANDER McQUEEN..........and not because it is such a commercial relevant or accessible collection but because the art involved , the masterful tailoring., the unbelievable prints and embellishments , the unfathomable dressmaking skills but for the overall presentation of such fantasy on a grand scale -------------gravity defying shoes(which were hideously fabulous) and gravity defying hair !! This was a visual feast , not to mention a paean to the art of fashion that should be used to teach future designers in years to come .............I believe that Mr McQUEEN will become what Karl is today
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AMCQUEEN/

PARIS SPRING 2010 YSL-STELLA-CELINE-GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

YSL-Once again the the designer delved backwards to go forward...but alas Mr Pilati overthinks it and offers up a not so fab Spring collection ....yes there were wonderful moments but then again there were the leiderhosen and the cotton and leather combo ..........I know this collection is capable of greatness even if it is thought out too much
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-YSLRG/

CELINE-BRAVO !!!! this will be the comeback collection of the season ....Ms Philo arrives with a bit more seasoning and a lot of common sense and delivered a fabulous collection that will no doubt restore it to the days when Michael Kors designed..........The clothes are crisp-sharp - exacting-pared down -raffine--there is a lot to like here for customers as well as editors
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-CELINE/

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI- He has found his story and he is sticking to it ...and rightfully so . The collection is young, sexy, frothy , ruffled, fringed , feathered and more . It is never boring and not for the shy girls who never go out
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VALLI/

STELLA MC CARTNEY -she has got her eye on making cash registers ring...and they will. The collection of real clothes for real people is Spring perfect in color - pattern-silhouette---it is not boring on any level and even offers real shoes !!! This is a collection that proves salable is not boring
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-SMCCARTN/

PARIS SPRING 2010--LAGERFELD-ANDREW GN-AKRIS-GIVENCHY - ungaro

AKRIS-What was once an old lady collection (less than 20 years ago) to the quintessence of sharp, clean , stunning simplicity is the road that has been travelled here.......the colors are beautifully soft but rich ..the clothes are wearable , slick and effortless almost ethereal
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AKRIS/

ANDREW GN-Soigne, chic, classy wardrobing for the woman of refined tastes..Mr. Gn did not cede one inch from his original plan of masterfully crafted embellished designs--he may have dialed it down a notch but nothing has been lost ....if anything, his dressmaking skills are enhanced
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AGN/

KARL LAGERFELD-It seems pointless to laud more praise on him but the show was such a truly masterful display of his tailoring and dressmaking talents, one cannot ignore this.........I chose to focus here on the "waist up" elements as his theme being the rounded hip short bears no resemblance to reality ......the impeccable tailoring and construction of those "tops" render them perfect for almost anyone who can afford them no matter what the age
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-KLAGERFELD/

GIVENCHY-As of this season I am now a believer...........Mr. Tisci presented a graphic well conceived collection of Givenchy...he has single handedly transformed the DNA of this famed brand from the demure lady to the "hot chick" of the 21 st century ...........and this is no easy task . The collection is undoubtedly young -unquestionably sexy and shows off the many talents of its designer
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-GIVENCHY/

UNGARO -for its premier collection , with new designer and new creative advisor, the long famed house should hide its head in shame for allowing such a tasteless and pedestrian display..........I mean really ..........pasties!!!! Short skirts and obvious odes to sexiness don't play here when the house was once known for the seductive qualities that the clothes had....Some sage pointed out that the only reason the designer got the job is that she was willing to play second fiddle to the drug addled --washed up at 23 starlet who was named "creative advisor" which is an insult to anyone in this business...as for the owner who didn't want to spend on a named designer and chose this route..I say ---YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-UNGARO/

IMAGE --LILO THE SLUT

HERE WE HAVE THE LATEST IMAGE MAKER FOR THE HOUSE OF UNGARO --THE WASHED UP SLUTTY LOOKING LINDSAY LOHAN AT HER FINEST ...DON'T YOU THINK SHE IS JUST A PARAGON OF GOOD TASTE??? A GUIDING LIGHT FOR THE YOUTH OF THE WORLD?? AND ESPECIALLY SHE IS THE CURE FOR WJAT AILS THIS NOW DISGRACED FASHION HOUSE........SHE IS THE QUINTESSENCE OF WHAT I THINK A JET SET CRACK WHORE LOOKS LIKE ------n'est ce pas??

PARIS SPRING 2010 JPG-LOEWE-VIKTOR&ROLF-JUNYE WATANABE

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER-Like so many of his colleagues, he looked back to look ahead...the familiar iconography of Gaultier was apparent...denim,lingerie, conical bras, trench coats-overalls and transparency ...ever the provocateur , ever the master tailor ...nevertheless this was not Gaultier with "his game on "
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-JPGAULTI/

VIKTOR & ROLF-At a time when most have retired to their tried and true ----the boys have forged new territory as well as providing one of the highlights of the week in Paris.....it was drama-----it was theater----it was great !!!! as for wearable , well some of it but what a visual feast ................known for their themes this was a tour de force in theme
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VIKROLF/

LOEWE-Everybody loves a come back and LOEWE is now poised to proceed to its former glory .......................unlike so many houses who have lost their luster, LOEWE has decided to comeback and be known for what they have always been known for ----------leather of all kind in all classifications. Huge kudos to Stuart Vevers for reigniting the brand with its original DNA and bringing the house into the 21 st century ................hopefully the coming collections will remain as chic and timely
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-LOEWE/

JUNYA WATANABE--I have never been a fan of nor have I ever been able to explain this collection BUT alas wonders never cease and I can say ......yes I get it!!!!! the collection is an exercise in razor sharp tailoring and any and everything you ever wanted in a white shirt.....the jackets and "blouses" were flawless in execution ...........while I am not sure how, as a retailer, I would buy this ....I know I would certainly be trying hard to figure out how it would be in my store
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-JNWATNBE/

PARIS SPRING 2010 DIOR LANVIN

DIOR-masterfully rendered trenchcoat looks, femme fatale dresses, lace. corsetry , bows, transparency and 40s film sirens-----sounds like a rehash of the Galliano Dior signatures but I must say it is by no means boring .............the looks appear as though this was their first time being presented and that is truly a feat
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2010RTW-CDIOR

LANVIN ..the show opened with what one could say are typically sexy ALBERT ELBAZ/LANVIN dresses then suddenly becomes a collection which is at once cohesive, so stunning , so awe inspiring in its theme all with fabulous jewelry ---this is the gem of a show that that one hopes for after a long month of not so pretty clothes....He has managed to take the collection , which is already a gem and make it a crowned jewel
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-LANVIN/

PARIS SPRING 2010 PUGH-ROCHAS-BALENCIAGA-AZZARO- BALMAIN

GARETH PUGH-Heavy on the zippers-close to the body with a much less theatrical presentation than is his norm but still plenty of drama to go around...this is an evolving collection with divine technique which I do believe will eventually bring him to the forefront of fashion houses
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-PUGH/

ROCHAS-The collection appears to be somewhat pretty even if I cannot find much to say about it ---this is a long fabled house that is still searching for its 21 st century identity...what I can say is that the use of the flowers at the waist is a key accessory/look
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-ROCHAS/

BALENCIAGA-Nicolas Ghesquiere as raised the bar to impossible heights with this spring collection. He is at the top of his game and re enforced his presence as a world class designer. While i am not a huge fan of the clothes, I am however, a huge fan of the craft and what he does every season. He has developed a cult following for his designs while remaining true to himself. There are not many who can even come close to making these claims
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-BALENCIA/

AZZARO-Remaining true to her brand, Ms. Seward delivered a beautiful collection of immaculately rendered clothes for ladies of all ages. Clean shapes with enough detail and embellishment but never over the top
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AZZARO/

BALMAIN--Another fabled house in search of a 21st century identity ....This is Rock n Roll, 70s Disco, 80s Sexy and way way over the top in every possible way. I would just love to know the demographic for the is collection as I would have to say that if you are over 30 and more than a size 8 then you are not shopping here.
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-BALMAIN/