When I first encountered BONASTRE,
my first thoughts were that the overall tone of the collection evoked
simplicity, modernity, minimalism and clean lines, almost a sort of Bauhaus.
It’s very clear to me that the BONASTRE design philosophy is very much in tune
with many of today’s fashion designers. The next thing that occurred to me is
that Fernando Bonastre might be compared or spoken of this way; he is the Jil
Sander (the real one) of leather goods, or maybe he is the Kris van Assche of
leather accessories. Nonetheless, hopefully you get the point. It is all about
clean, simple, almost architecturally well designed bags and small leather
goods that will appeal to those who eschew logos and signatures and are much
more focused and intent on owning/carrying original and thoroughly modern
designs. The only common thread is that these clients insist on the highest of
quality.
An extra added proponent of BONASTRE
is its innate quality of the raw materials and its practices utilizing leathers
which age in a way that increases the physical appeal of each piece. There is
so much current talk about natural, environmentally friendly and sustainable
and apparently Monsieur Bonastre has been way ahead of the curve in this
respect as this has been part of his M.O. since the beginning.
Please have a read and meet the
man with a plan... FERNANDO BONASTRE …in his own words
1-Do you have a reason that you have chosen this minimalist look for
your collections? Inspirations?
Showing off is not my culture,
all the opposite: I believe in the discretion of luxury. Minimalism gives power
to the design and also to the natural leather, and it is all about construction
too … I am also fascinated by vegetable tanned leather, its texture, its smell
and its natural character that takes a natural patina over time. It is a living
and noble material, like wood. I am also fascinated by architects such as Oscar
Niemeyer and Tadao Ando and by industrial design. This makes me want to
redesign the traditional construction of bags.... and all in an atmosphere of
Alternative Rock!
2-all of your styles are quite functional and most of them are
unisex...your philosophy? Reasoning?
Thank you for noticing that my
bags are functional, because to me, the function is the ultimate purpose of a
bag. A bag is an extension of your body and mind. That is why the choice of a
bag is so personal; each one of us is a bit OCD about what he or she expects
from a bag. Actually my bags are not really unisex simply because a man would
never wear a bag that a woman would wear and a woman needs her bag to respect
very particular feminine codes (function, inside organization, shape and space,
hardware, color….)
3-will you ever vary material and let’s say use hair calf or some fur as
a novelty? Leopard pattern? Enlarge your color palette? Why?
I am proud of our ethical
charter in working with leather tanned with vegetable tannins. The leather
industry is one of the most contaminating because of the chemicals and chromium
which turns leather into plastic, and we don’t want to participate to this
contamination or work with this dead material. For that reason, I don’t think
I’ll ever work with fur or with leather that doesn’t come from a recycling process.
In the past, I have designed lines using vulcanized cotton or 100% natural
wool, and actually our linings are in 100% recycled cotton. In terms of
colours, we work with black, Terra brown, Cement Grey as a base, but every
season we introduce a new colour as chocolate brown for the Summer or Bloody
Red for next Winter, etc…
4-what is your plan for the brand in terms of points of sale and product
expansion?
BONASTRE is in a phase of
development. Our worldwide doors are the best. As a reference: Barneys NY in US, Le Bon
Marché, Le Printemps, and L'Éclaireur in Paris, Luisa Via Roma in Italy, Wako, and United Arrows in Japan, Samsung and Hyundai in South Korea, Galeries Lafayette in
Indonesia, The Conran Shop in
UK, or the corner
online .... In 2016 we plan to open a 2nd shop
in Paris. We also plan openings in International capitals as NY, Seoul and
Tokyo….
5-now, we ask a few things about you… how did you arrive at designing a
leather collection?
I graduated at the University of Fashion in Madrid,
Master of Marketing and Image applied to luxury. I started working in Paris at
Lacroix Haute-Couture, then Montana, then in the Ready-to-Wear, simultaneously
as a Stylist, Image Manager and Artistic Director. It originally happened when I was
looking for THE Laptop Case to
attend to an interview with a Head
Hunter in New-York!!!....in vain, and I said ...Why shouldn't I design my
own??? …and this is howdiscovered my passion for the Leather work
6-can you say that there is a collection of prêt à porter
that would be a parallel to what you do? Or if you could design leather for a
collection other than yours …Who would that be and why?
I have a great admiration for the
conceptual approach of some Japanese Designers as Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe,
Issey Miyake or Rei Kawakubo… I admire the continual questioning, which makes
the Fashion evolve and going forward, always….I’m so obsessed with the Hussein
Chalayan’s work and his technological
and convertible approach…and yet so poetic, but also JW Anderson, Céline, Rick
Owens, The Row, Delpozo… So many great talents!!And last but not least,
Cristobal Balenciaga remains the most talented designer. With highest honors to
Madeleine Vionnet.
7-do you have style or fashion mentors/icons and why them?
I learned a lot from Claude
Montana and from his architectural approach of Fashion. This is also where I
discovered my passion for leather.
8-If you could invite any 5 people to dinner at your home… who would you
invite and why … anyone at all
Matthieu Ricard, a French a
PhD degree in molecular
genetics at the Pasteur
Institute converted to a Buddhist Lama … Tadao Ando, a Japanese architect …Tom
York and David Bowie … David Lynch … Such special personalities together would
definitely be a magic moment!
9-why should people buy Bonastre? What is it that makes your product
better or different from what is already in the marketplace?
The CONTEMPORANEOUS SIMPLICITY of
the design versus the established codes, the ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY ethic, the
respect of the ARTS and HANDCRAFTS… In the other hand, there is a place for
everyone….
10-if you did not have your collection what would you be doing as a
profession and why?
An architect…I like working on the
space and I like to consider the space that Man takes on this planet. Or a
psychoanalyst, to understand how each one traumas and own history make people
react in such or such way. I also like to listen to understand, not listen to
answer ...
www.bonastre.net
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