chatting with one of the greats... STAN HERMAN..

With the next New York fashion week in the very near future, I felt that now was the time to remind some and alert others about those who built the foundation of what we experience today. Though today’s version is not exactly as it was or intended to be, there is one thing that still remains and that it New York City houses and was home to  some of the world’s greatest design talents. With that in mind, today it is about Stan Herman. If you don’t know the name, then you best read and then delve deeper into the life and times of this living legend of fashion.

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At one time, somewhere around the mid to late 60s, designers came out from the backrooms (behind the showrooms) on Seventh Avenue and became personalities in their own right. Designers such as Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Leo Narducci, Donald Brooks and yes, Stan Herman, are a few of the names come to mind and fit the bill. They were employed by labels which hitherto never had a marquee designer attached to the label. My personal memory of Stan came from his tenure at Mr. Mort from the ads in Vogue, Bazaar and the New York Times with its ads from major department stores.  By the way, if none of these names are familiar to you, then please do not refer to yourself as a fashionphile or even an aficionado. These names were the dawning, and in many ways the foundation, of a burgeoning industry in New York City.  Up until this time, and with the emergence of such “upstarts,” fashion in NYC was no longer taking a back seat to Paris and other international fashion capitals. 

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Stan Herman is one of the originals and is one of the most enduring personalities that Seventh Avenue has ever produced. Very few designers can boast careers that span more than half a century, very few have accomplished what this man has and the likelihood of anyone even coming close to him is slim to none. Today we are conditioned and accustomed to the so called creative directors who have legions of designers and staff who do everything so that they can just point and opine. When Stan was hitting his stride and it was he who was doing almost everything … well, a lot of it anyway. Don’t get me wrong, yes there was staff, but nowhere near what it takes today to create a mega brand. In essence, it was a time when designers designed and they actually possessed amazing talents, vision and skillsets that more than likely knew no bounds. BTW, they rarely moaned about how hard they worked! ... a little aside ... you listening Raf?? Alber??

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Imagine a time when a brand was judged on a designer’s design prowess and not hype, meaning there was no blah blah blah and there was only product which spoke for itself and spoke to its clientele. Stan Herman was a prescient designer who saw what was going to happen way before it even was conceived of. Mr. Herman has designed every classification of apparel as well as uniforms for some of the most well recognized names/brands in the world of business. He has given selflessly to a business that has brought him prosperity and fame and yet 
 Stan Herman is one of the humblest, kindest and most respected men you will ever meet. To be honest, there aren’t many who live up to those words or his reputation amongst his peers and for those qualities alone, the man should be saluted and honored in a business that eats people alive, eats their young, turns the talentless into stars and then kicks them all to the curb. He has withstood the test of time and defied the odds of a fickle and often cruel business by remaining very much a vibrant participant and presence within the sphere of fashion to this day.

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 So, now, it’s my turn to salute and praise Stan Herman and as he speaks to us in his own words.

JF-If there was one moment in your career that you would want to “freeze frame,” what would it be and why?

SH-It would have been the moment that I was interviewed at the 92 Y in the Fashion Icons series, when facing my peers, I felt the shock of complete acceptance and love. These highs aren't usually a part of growing older, but in this case, it summed up a long and very happy career.

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JF-If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

SH-Well for sure my first guest would be Gene Horowitz, my late lover of 40 years. To his left would be my Mother , who he never met, she died much too young, but since he was left-handed and she was right handed , there would have been an immediate connection .To her left, would be President Obama to show her how much life has changed in the past 70 years. To his left would be Mrs. Peterson, my 10th grade teacher who forced me to start taking life seriously .Sitting at her feet would be my dog, Mozart the standard poodle that held me together in my hardest times

JF-Can you speak to the current state of fashion?

SH-FLUX !!!!  Designers? BRANDERS, Trends? Circular. Media? Voracious, Likes? All the possibilities, Loathes? The hierarchy's alphabet soup … How would you change it? …. I wouldn't assume I had that power!

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JF-What is “the fuel that drives the engine” that is Stan Herman? Your inspirations? Your fears? Your modus operandi?

SH-The need for respect, the wonder of the world and the fear of failure; but all take second place behind the joy of sketching and seeing that sketch come to life.

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JF-What is your advice to young and future designers entering the world of fashion?

SH-If the talent comes naturally, make sure you learn how to harness that talent. Your best friend will always be yourself; don’t dissipate yourself by looking for answers in other places. It's a tough business, but those of us who have the DNA are motivated toward it. Good Luck!

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*** Special thanks to Stan for sharing his personal photo archive and to Jeffrey Banks for making this happen… my undying thanks to both for believing in what I do

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meet Fern Mallis .. author, fashion veteran, luminary

This is an unexpected and amazing surprise to have Fern Mallis as the subject of one of my Q & A sessions. If you are not aware of whom she is then you are only pretending to be a dyed in the wool “fashionphile.” Ms. Mallis has just had her first book (Fashion Lives) released by Rizzoli within the last 30 days. The book, which is an unadulterated joy to read and selling like crazy, is comprised of a curated selection of sit down interviews conducted by the author. Her interviewees are some of the most notable fashion, in its broadest sense, personalities of our generation.  Think Mellen, Kamali, Jacobs, Oscar, Karan, Ford, Cunningham ... To name a few …These sit downs were conducted as part of a series produced at the 92^nd St Y in NYC over the past few years.

Fern & me

One tidbit about the hugely attended book signing at SFA on April 20th and that is: the book and author were afforded nothing short of megastar treatment when 18 windows were devoted first to the book, then the designers and then of course the raison d’etre for both .. Fern Mallis. It is not exactly a common occurrence to have one of the world’s most celebrated department stores, known for selling CLOTHES to devote its entire Fifth Avenue frontage to a book!

I am humbled and gratified that Ms. Mallis made the effort to do this “interview” during this extraordinarily busy time given her promotion schedule for the book. It just really shows me that there are people who still retain their grace and integrity even after being in this business for so long which is not always easy. This little interlude between us also should demonstrate to all that Fern Mallis gives as good as she gets. Her replies are written with great candor backed up with extensive knowledge and experience. If you need to google her, then just check out Wikipedia... that says it all!

So it is my pleasure to so offer a chat with the author of the moment! Fern Mallis….

1-After the runaway success of your first book, Fashion Lives, what’s on your agenda for a follow up? ideas??

It’s a little too early to be planning more books, but I do have some in mind, including a Volume II of Fashion Lives, since there are already  4 interviews-5 interviews that didn’t get into this book.  My next interview at 92Y is on June 3^rd with Victoria Beckham,

2-While we are on the subject, I’m going to steal one of the questions you asked Bill Cunningham and that was “what was the best show you ever attended and why?”

There have been several very memorable ones; I loved the final show Bill Blass did when he announced his retirement.  It was in the morning during Hurricane Floyd.  The winds and rains were unbelievable, but his “Ladies” kept arriving with umbrellas blowing away, the tents were leaking everywhere….the drops of water dripping in the venue and over the runway were more dramatic with the lights hitting them…and it was a scary day….Bill paced backstage with his cigarette and said to me he was perfectly happy to cancel the show, the clothes had been made, models came, but he was worried about guests being out in this weather.  I said we were not letting him retire without this final show.  It went up late, but the music was all Gershwin, Lerner and Lowe, all very American, with red white and blue lit backdrop…The show was gorgeous and when he came out for his bow at the end- there wasn’t a dry eye in the house during an extended standing ovation.  I’ll never forget it.

3-Being a child of the garment center and having been so immersed in the popularizing of Seventh Avenue and its designers ... what do you think of the evaporation of what was 7th Avenue and why do you think it happened and lastly do you see it becoming extinct?

It had a lot to do with greed, in making the clothes as inexpensive as possible with a large markup….the unions in the garment center made it too expensive to produce in NYC, the real estate folks saw buildings in the district with full floors dedicated to manufacturing and sewing and knew they could get top dollar as office space and showrooms, and they helped push out the workers, and it all started to be made overseas in Asia, India, China, Vietnam etc…    It’s sad to not see it all happening in the district and some of that old-fashioned garment center energy is gone.  It’s not extinct however as there is a renewed commitment to making it in NY again, however it will never be what it once was.

4-Who would you say have been your mentors, idols or influences during your long and varied career within the world of fashion and why?

Stan Herman who was President of CFDA while I was ED, has been a great mentor, the many designers in my book have been my idols and have influenced me—Calvin, Ralph Donna, Michael, Tommy, Betsey

5-Do you believe that runway shows have lost their importance due to over coverage/exposure via the age of the internet or the pandering of  the media due to advertising  budgets and the whims of certain editors rather than real merit? ... Thoughts??

The runway shows have lost a lot of their exclusivity and WOW factor, as people are much more excited about things they can’t get into and see, than they are about something available to everyone.

But with the internet, the iphones, and other handhelds- every image is instantly available and several business have been spawned allowing people to pre-order from the runway before a store even places an order….It’s a new ball game now, and we all have to adjust to the power in the palm of our hands,

6-There are so many new and wildly talented designers who don’t get recognized by the media, the CFDA or the retail establishment. Don’t you think that there should be some way to cost effectively show off all of this “hidden” talent? Any ideas or suggestions?

I do think that in NYC, there are many programs and initiatives that DO identify and help new, up and coming untested talent.  Other int’l cities are trying very hard to copy these programs.  These programs assist in fashion show expenses, cash for their business and provide mentors, and get them in front of the media.

7-Have you ever wished to once again “hear the voices” of fashion critics like Bernadine Morris or Hebe Dorsey; meaning honest to goodness fashion reviews/reportage and not front rows and venue?

Well Hebe Dorsey was before my time, but I do remember the last years of Bernadine Morris.   I miss Amy Spindler’s voice, John Duka’s wit and observance of our industry and its players, and I miss Cathy Horyn’s take no prisoner’s coverage of the collections…

8-If you could invite any 5 people to dinner ... past of present ... who would they be and why?

This is very difficult…there are many people that I’d love to dine with, but this first dinner could maybe be with YSL, Coco Chanel, Elizabeth Taylor, Pres. Obama and Diana Vreeland. I think I could just sit back and listen all night without having to say a word… each of them are opinionated, smart, brilliantly clever and talented…and maybe a sixth- having Julia Childs there cooking the meal…

9-What are your thoughts on vintage apparel as well as all the referencing that has  been going on and the fact that  rarely if ever  credit is given to the originator of the “idea” that has been recycled?

I’m not a “vintage” shopper, however many designers are.  In essence nothing is brand new and not influenced by something that came before, but I’m not surprised by not giving credit to where the inspiration comes from…Frankly it would cause havoc in an industry to keep acknowledging this.  But with that said every so often a designer’s line sheet at show will explain where the ideas came from and if there was a specific look or person that they were influenced by.

10- Given your long history and breadth of knowledge of the fashion business, how do you feel about the heritage brands from our past being reinvented in ways that have no common thread with the original DNA?

We have yet to really see an American heritage brand re-invented successfully in this country.  Halston has tried several times.   Now Chris Benz is trying to do it at Bill Blass and hopefully that will succeed.  The recent appointment of Peter Copping at Oscar de laRenta might be the first time this is working.  He is channeling the spirit of Oscar and not deviating from the look of the house, yet putting his stamp on it.   I think it is imperative that there is some connection with the original design philosophy.