Matthias Vriens-McGrath .... the reinvention ... Atelier MVM

It is a rare occasion when I am taken aback by how one of my subjects replies to my questions; each interview is pretty much tailored to meet a criteria for the purpose of the interview but in rare moments such as today, Matthias Vriens-McGrath has given me a gift and in return has given all of you a gift and that is unbridled unvarnished honesty.

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I recently stated that life as we knew it has significantly changed and not necessarily for the better. Actions that have never been considered acceptable on any level have suddenly become not only acceptable but commonplace. Then there is the issue of what is politically correct coupled with the “me too” era that has opened a Pandora’s Box of whoop ass as well speaking of open secrets as fact. Lastly, we live in the age of Instagram where anyone who stands in front of a camera is suddenly a model and anyone who holds a camera is suddenly a photographer and they will all (most) work for free!

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The trickle down has entered the world fashion in terms of media of every kind as well as its content and those who work within what was once a thriving industry that fostered creativity and individuality. For the most part, printed media has taken on all the charm and aspiration of a Lord & Taylor catalog at its pedestrian best.

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Consider this an interview about going backwards to go forward or a tale of re-invention which is what makes this a fashion story. Most of us, who have survived the glory days of great fashion, great editors, stylists, visionaries and great printed media, have been forced in one way or another to reinvent ourselves for any number of reasons. 

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Given this “exchange” between Matthias  and I, it is my honor, my privilege and frankly I am humbled by this man’s faith in me to be the purveyor of his words as I feel he speaks for many of us who love fashion and the joys that it has provided for us during your lives.

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Jeffrey Felner: What prompted this life changing event? Why add retail to your resumé?

Matthias Vriens-McGrath: As life changing as it might sound, it is actually more like returning to an old friend. I was an antiques dealer back in Amsterdam at age 23.

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JF: Explain the modus operandi of Atelier MVM? What are you bringing to the table to when it comes to home décor? Inspirations?

MVM: I’ve always said “if all goes down, at the end of the day I can always glue shells” Meaning that when I had my antique store in Amsterdam, in order to escape the boredom of sitting in a store all day long, I bought antique mirrors and covered them in shells. Later, when I moved to Paris, I sold them in established galleries and that paid the rent. Long story short ….  And something nobody really talks about much … but commercial fashion photography is circling the drain. Magazines do not make a lot of sense nor turn profit anymore, due to a variety of things that make them barely as  relevant as Instagram…. anything else that provides immediate information etc. … With that that said, magazines can largely blame themselves, since they have become nothing short of boring. Same celebs, same tongues that lick the same asses over and over again … no matter how much you love pussy, ass, or tomato soup for that matter, variety sells … the constant change attracts an audience.

So, I decided not to complain about it and return to the future by going back into design and antiques, starting with gluing some more shells on frames … and it felt good, being in charge and not having to deal with inept editors or stylists that clearly cannot style themselves out of a brown paper bag, or a sitting, let alone support or inspire me to collaborate on making a memorable image that stretches beyond the pedestrian. Surely I have worked with incredibly inspiring, sweet and talented people, but you’d be amazed to see what the majority of today’s editors carry around IQ wise and creatively

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JF: How do you source your pieces and merchandise since you have everything classification from an ashtray to an armoire? What makes these pieces unique?

 MVM: I only do what I like, possibly not only for commercial purposes but within this stretch of my imagination lays the store’s success. My shop looks nothing like any other store. Subsequently it is not for everybody, but it has a small group of fans and I am a happy boy. The pieces are my most personal items like my shells mirrors and chandeliers, all hand made by me and then I’d also mention my ‘Mientje’ vase, named after my grandmother Wilhelmina. It is a tramp art head vase that I have had for 30 years and now produce variations of it in assorted shapes and colors... I love textiles and there is a great collection of antique textiles and vintage pieces that I can pull from for interiors.

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JF: Who is your target customer and why did wait until now to open a shop which will certainly increase your workload given your already busy schedule?

MVM: Absolutely anybody with a wallet I'd say makes a perfect customer. As much as I would like to say I am a busy photographer, truth to be told, I am not. I have not had a paying job in several years since people are intimidated by sex. My work contains a fair amount of that as you might agree and the me-too movement has not exactly been a friend to me.  Anything blatantly sexual is seen as ‘mauvais gout’ and objectifying. My point, as a photographer, has always been to push the envelope (if you like) of both sexes; to explore both sides. Masculine versus feminine and the reverse at times, so as not to lens what is expected but what is what some might label disturbing. For example, shoot a woman in charge and powerful, legs open and willing AND in charge; a man fragile, head off center, back and ass arched, etc. … in the case of my men, this is conceived as HOMO EROTIC, GAY, effeminate, etc. … Homophobia is rampant at publishers like Conde Nast and Hearst and I am quite frankly no longer interested defending myself. I take a very honest picture … Take it or leave it. I love shooting women and men equally, I have never treated anyone of them disrespectfully or exploited them. Sexually prowled on them? Yes, of course! I am a photographer, I portray my vision on my subject matter and this is what makes my picture MY image…but all of that is done intellectually. Most people think I am an absolute SLUT but truth be told I happen to not be black listed by anyone for sexual inappropriateness. Anybody that truly knows me knows I am far too shy to bother anyone. I might have my fantasies, but they remain just that.

That said, I am still working in 2018 on the Taschen Big Penis Book and as complicated it is to ‘cock hound’ these guys around, the book is going to be a shocker and simultaneously extraordinary on  many planes!

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JF: If you could choose any items that you wanted to display and sell in the shop, what would they be and why?

MVM: The entire Trump family on liquidation sale. Nuff said!

atelier mvm los angeles 8055 beverly blvd. los angeles ca 90048 .... or follow on Instgram

www.thekinsky.com/conversations/atelier-mvm-matthias-vriens-mcgrath

Matthias Vriens-McGrath... the VULKAN interview

"The man is exactly what I thought he might be and so much more; he is protagonist, antagonist, story teller, evocateur, provocateur, in your face, passionate, mischievous, portraitist and that’s just for starters. What impressed me most about him is the man has this self-effacing sense of humor which is pervasive and sometimes quite evident in his work and in his words. He is a stand-alone when it comes to creatives and especially when it comes to the inhabitants of the fashion world."

FOR THE FULL INTERVIEW CLICK THE LINK BELOW


www.vulkanmagazine.com/qa-with-matthias-vriens-mcgrath

Tim Christian .. the VULKAN interview

Currently in the world of fashion, especially when it comes to advertising and editorial, there seems to be an age issue that surely comes off as ill-conceived, self-defeating and possibly even discriminatory. In the men’s area, it is apparent that stylists, editors, photographers, casting directors and even designers prefer cookie cutter boys, not men, BOYS, as the ideal customer or image for their coveted and ubiquitous prestige brands. 

Brandon Jameson photo.. click to enlarge

Those who sit in power need to take note and not summarily dismiss the possibility that they are sending out the wrong message to a well-heeled audience. There is a grave disconnect! Do you think that a hedgie, a CEO or any man past his 20s relates to prepubescent looking muscled or anorexic looking boys with bow legs and greasy hair? Think about who can afford and who can only aspire.

Mark Bruce photo.. click to enlarge

Tim Christian is of indeterminate age, like somewhere between 35 and death, whereas the Stepford boys can’t be more than 25 and it doesn’t take a genius to see it; marinate that in your mind for a bit. 

Dietmar Kohl photo.. click to enlarge

Tim Christian is ever the storyteller, the actor, the one man show or the provocateur, via head shot or full body, he has something to communicate to the viewer. The ultimate result lays with the photographer, designer and stylist to convey their message of the moment through his image ... click!

He is youthful without looking foolish, he is debonair when called upon to be, in this sort of sexy Euro way and he is lithe and well-built enough to carry off almost any look. Tim owns a visual presence that reads as a sort of “bucking the trend” rocker, which might be the antidote to what ails the industry. He is here to signal a change in the winds. 

Mark Bruce photo.. click to enlarge

So, it is my opinion that Tim Christian has something to say of the world he inhabits and he is saying it to VULKAN. He speaks from the most credible standpoint which includes not being in the 18 to 25 age bracket or a sliver fox. You’ll find him enlightening and engaging in that he has a message about being Tim Christian. So in his own words: 

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Jeffrey Felner: What is your internal driver ... what fuels your ambition?

Tim Christian: I’ve had a few careers since college, and in each of those situations I was working like a dog (most of the time) to help other people achieve their goals. There’s a lot of satisfaction to be gained from stepping outside myself and doing something for someone else. I hope that I’ve helped people succeed in life. When I came to a turning point a year ago, it gave me an opportunity to be proactive about what the next half might be. It showed me, unexpectedly, that there IS a second act in life. And I don’t want to waste it. I want to take risks. I want to do things and go places and meet people I might never have before and to have fun. I’m lucky to have a support system. I have to make them proud, too.

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JF; Can you explain why this mission is so important to you and what you hope to achieve by fulfilling this career? Do you consider yourself a trailblazer?

TC: In my world there have been a lot of firsts: first college graduate, first born, first time . . . My hard reset comes with a lot of responsibility, as well as opportunity, because it’s a first. Creative vocations come easily for young people, I think, because experimentation and freedom are celebrated when we’re starting out but to be in the middle of life and leap off a cliff probably seems crazy. And being my age can be considered trailblazing. Or nuts. Or just taking a risk. If I succeed, it’ll be real. It’ll be worth the risk. 

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JF: Do you feel that your acting has contributed to your ease in front of the camera and why? What do you do to prep yourself for a shoot? Mentally? Physically?

TC: Acting and acting training are tremendously helpful to modeling. My first photoshoots felt static, and I didn’t have a good understanding of the dynamism of still photography. Learning to bring out the characters within me has made all the difference between standing in front of the camera, and BEING in front of the camera. Preparation always starts with communication, concept, and collaboration. I try never to go into a shoot without understanding what the photographer and I will create TOGETHER. That way there are no surprises. I like to have a goal, and establish parameters that will facilitate creative play. And if I’m really planning ahead, I get plenty of sleep and LOTS of exercise for a few days before, so I’m LOOKING my best.

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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

TC: I have always adored creative people. My mother has long held the belief that I am a frustrated artist in search of a medium. Perhaps my medium is me. She’s always the first on my list because she knows me far better than I can ever hope to know myself. And after two glasses of wine, she can chat with ANYONE. A close friend is a scientist and an artist and he has a wonderfully creative mind which is always full of questions and opinions that cannot be found in the proverbial box. People who work with their hands inspire serious admiration especially finish carpenters … maybe it’s biblical. I’ve worked with a guy here in LA who builds decks, fences and gates. He used to be a chef. And he’s Italian. Good with his hands . . . My oldest friend lives here in LA; we finished college a year apart, and both migrated into civilization at about the same time. We’re both married now, working and life gets busy and so I’d love to have him to dinner more often. Finally, there’s someone on my family tree I would love to meet, assuming all the rules of physics can be broken for an evening. The first woman in my family known to have been born in California, around 1880, was a Native American. She fell in love with a less than loyal Caucasian man, and got pregnant. He could ill afford to marry a Native American, let alone support a mixed-race child but she fought for herself and her child, and went down a rabbit hole in the courts to prove his paternity. There were death threats, armed guards, a Winchester rifle remains, this woman must have been somebody special and had she failed I wouldn’t be here. I’m betting she’d be a fantastic 

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JF: Do you have a mentor, style icon or inspiration that comes to mind every day and why that person or idea?

TC: I spend my fair share of time on social media, and I try to look and look and look at images. It’s exciting to see a little of the diversity of the world reflected in pictures. I’m not the only “old” guy out there, working hard and trying to be a success. In that sense I’m really following in the footsteps of other men, and women, who’ve started a bit of a revolution. What comes to mind, every day, is that I AM responsible for making this work. And no one can inspire me more than that.

Gregory Prescott  photo.. click to enlarge

JF: If you could choose any collaboration and/or collaboration, who and what would it be and why?

TC: The thing I’m enjoying most on this new adventure is collaboration. I’ve worked with creative people for many years, but now I’m a participant rather than a facilitator. My respect for what photographers, stylists, and hair and makeup artists bring to the table is off the charts. I can’t do anything on camera without partners. There are so many people out there with cameras . . . And I keep my eye on a few people, especially here in LA. There’s something intimate about the work people do here, I think because we have space. .. especially domestic space and the light here can be spectacular. One of my favorite artists is Luke Austin-Paglialonga. He creates very intimate images that transcend both art and fashion. Of course you can’t talk about fashion photography today without honoring Matthias Vries-McGrath. Besides the spectacle of his work, there is always a sense of fun. And he pushes and pushes at the boundaries to keep things really fresh.

http://www.vulkanmagazine.com/tim-christian-on-being-tim-christian

Tim Christian ... bucking the trend

In today’s world of fashion, especially when it comes to runway, advertising and editorial, there seems to be this ageism that surely comes off as being rather discriminatory and ill-conceived as well as self-defeating. In the men’s area, apparently stylists, editors, photographers, casting directors and even designers flaunt these cookie cutter boys, not men, BOYS, as the ideal customer or image for so many coveted and ubiquitous prestige brands. Someone needs to explain to me how a 20 something who looks like he hasn’t had his first shave yet can afford $3,000 bomber jackets or $1500 shoes. Granted, so much of the clothing is geared to these absurdly young fashion victims but the schism between the reality and fiction broadens every season. Enter Tim Christian! He is here to signal a change in the winds.

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Tim possesses this sort of “bucking the trend” rocker image that might be the antidote to what ails the industry. He is youthful without looking foolish, he is debonair, when called upon to be, in this sort of Delon Euro way and he is slim enough to carry off almost any look. Those in the seats of power need to take note and not summarily dismiss the possibility that they are sending out the wrong message to well-heeled consumers who can easily afford what they sell. Do you think that a hedgie, a CEO or any man past his 20s relates to prepubescent looking muscle boys with bow legs and greasy hair? Think about who can afford and who can only aspire. Tim is of indeterminate age like somewhere between 35 and death whereas the stepford boys can’t be more than 25 and it doesn’t take a genius to see it; marinate that in your mind for a bit.

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So, I took it upon myself to speak to Tim Christian and listen to what he has to tell us about today’s world of being a male model and not being in the 18 to 25 age bracket. You’ll find it interesting that he has something or maybe even a lot to say about being Tim Christian.

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Jeffrey Felner: Can you tell us some history about you and how you got to this “destination?”

Tim Christian: The trajectory of my professional life has been something of an odyssey. As a young man I never developed any particular vocational aspirations; I always thought there was plenty of time for that. One thing led to another, one career (more-or-less) lead to another. I had a few chapters and then it stopped. Planning, learning, volunteering, networking and two college degrees came up short a couple years ago. I woke up one morning and thought, “there must be something more about me, and less about the work.” Not that I didn’t want to work, I’d worked since I was 16, through high school and then it stopped. A rude sort of awakening to getting out there and making something OF myself. So I did my homework about head shots, posted one on a casting website, and in 48 hours had been contacted by three theatrical/commercial agents in Los Angeles. Model managers and agents in the EU, UK, USA and Latin America came calling very soon thereafter. Eight professional relationships developed between September 2015 and June 2016. 

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JF: What made you focus on being a model and wanting to buck the current trend of the ubiquitous cookie cutter boys?

TC: Acting is incredibly tough and requires an abundance of skills and training, none of which I had when I started. The way I LOOK is with me every day so it is a biological accident, but one that makes me extraordinarily lucky. I can have LOTS of model agents (and functionally only one theatrical agent); so the more people asked – serious, professional people (I did my due diligence), the more opportunities I had to build a team of experts who are on my side. Try to find that in the “regular job” world!

As for breaking some mold well, that’s partly circumstances and partly design. I look the way I look, mostly and one thing I know well is that I can’t make it work if I look like someone else. Most of the guys my age, and lots of young guys, have classic good looks.  In cities like LA, truly beautiful faces (and physiques) are running wild on the streets so I tried to find my own niche; which includes a full head of long hair. I’m naturally lean so I take care to eat well (no point in eating bad food), and to exercise (another story entirely). I’ve never been tattooed or pierced, despite four years of college in the Eighties! I’m not a trend because I’ve not marked myself in any way that is permanent and at a typical casting,  I’m the guy who can show SKIN, not ink. The day I change that is the day I blend in!

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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

TC: I have always adored creative people. My mother has long held the belief that I am a frustrated artist in search of a medium. Perhaps my medium is me. She’s always the first on my list because she knows me far better than I can ever hope to know myself. And after two glasses of wine, she can chat with ANYONE. A close friend is a scientist and an artist and he has a wonderfully creative mind which is always full of questions and opinions that cannot be found in the proverbial box. People who work with their hands inspire serious admiration especially finish carpenters … maybe it’s biblical. I’ve worked with a guy here in LA who builds decks, fences and gates. He used to be a chef. And he’s Italian. Good with his hands . . . My oldest friend lives here in LA; we finished college a year apart, and both migrated into civilization at about the same time. We’re both married now, working and life gets busy and so I’d love to have him to dinner more often. Finally, there’s someone on my family tree I would love to meet, assuming all the rules of physics can be broken for an evening. The first woman in my family known to have been born in California, around 1880, was a Native American. She fell in love with a less than loyal Caucasian man, and got pregnant. He could ill afford to marry a Native American, let alone support a mixed-race child but she fought for herself and her child, and went down a rabbit hole in the courts to prove his paternity. There were death threats, armed guards, a Winchester rifle remains, this woman must have been somebody special and had she failed I wouldn’t be here. I’m betting she’d be a fantastic dinner companion.

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JF: Do you have a constant inspiration, inner voice or mentor that drives you to achieving your goals and who or what might they be?

TC: Lots of folks have said that if you’re going to be something, whatever it is, be the best. Performing just because someone wants me to has never been my style and having had all kinds of jobs in this life, I know the value of WORK. It’s more and more at the center of life for most adults. Even if it isn’t curing cancer or sending a rocket to the moon, most people really strive to be GOOD at what they do. Slow days, crazy days, tedium, thrills . . . Whatever life throws at me, if I’m gonna do it, my aim is to do it well. I have lots of dull days, slow days and times when I’m not being asked to do a lot. So it’s all the more important, when I’ve succeeded in beating out countless other guys (most of whom look or sound just like me on camera) to be the absolute best I can be and not just because it’s expected, but because there’s no other point to it at the end of the day.

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JF: If you could rewrite the path of your life, what would you change or wouldn’t change and why?

TC: I’m suspicious of “shoulda/coulda/woulda”. For me it’s too close to regret… or shame. I don’t always know why things happen, but I’m pretty confident that things happen for a reason. The smallest changes in the past would have had unimaginable effects on my life today. I like my life today. I have goals, and opportunities, and support and love and family and friends … none of which I’d care to lose. Whatever might have been doesn’t really matter, because it’s not real. This adventure I’m living is as real as it gets!

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*** Special thanks to Dietmar Kohl, Mark Bruce, Joey Carman & Tate Tullier for their expert lensing of Tim!