Matthias Vriens-McGrath .... the reinvention ... Atelier MVM

It is a rare occasion when I am taken aback by how one of my subjects replies to my questions; each interview is pretty much tailored to meet a criteria for the purpose of the interview but in rare moments such as today, Matthias Vriens-McGrath has given me a gift and in return has given all of you a gift and that is unbridled unvarnished honesty.

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I recently stated that life as we knew it has significantly changed and not necessarily for the better. Actions that have never been considered acceptable on any level have suddenly become not only acceptable but commonplace. Then there is the issue of what is politically correct coupled with the “me too” era that has opened a Pandora’s Box of whoop ass as well speaking of open secrets as fact. Lastly, we live in the age of Instagram where anyone who stands in front of a camera is suddenly a model and anyone who holds a camera is suddenly a photographer and they will all (most) work for free!

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The trickle down has entered the world fashion in terms of media of every kind as well as its content and those who work within what was once a thriving industry that fostered creativity and individuality. For the most part, printed media has taken on all the charm and aspiration of a Lord & Taylor catalog at its pedestrian best.

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Consider this an interview about going backwards to go forward or a tale of re-invention which is what makes this a fashion story. Most of us, who have survived the glory days of great fashion, great editors, stylists, visionaries and great printed media, have been forced in one way or another to reinvent ourselves for any number of reasons. 

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Given this “exchange” between Matthias  and I, it is my honor, my privilege and frankly I am humbled by this man’s faith in me to be the purveyor of his words as I feel he speaks for many of us who love fashion and the joys that it has provided for us during your lives.

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Jeffrey Felner: What prompted this life changing event? Why add retail to your resumé?

Matthias Vriens-McGrath: As life changing as it might sound, it is actually more like returning to an old friend. I was an antiques dealer back in Amsterdam at age 23.

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JF: Explain the modus operandi of Atelier MVM? What are you bringing to the table to when it comes to home décor? Inspirations?

MVM: I’ve always said “if all goes down, at the end of the day I can always glue shells” Meaning that when I had my antique store in Amsterdam, in order to escape the boredom of sitting in a store all day long, I bought antique mirrors and covered them in shells. Later, when I moved to Paris, I sold them in established galleries and that paid the rent. Long story short ….  And something nobody really talks about much … but commercial fashion photography is circling the drain. Magazines do not make a lot of sense nor turn profit anymore, due to a variety of things that make them barely as  relevant as Instagram…. anything else that provides immediate information etc. … With that that said, magazines can largely blame themselves, since they have become nothing short of boring. Same celebs, same tongues that lick the same asses over and over again … no matter how much you love pussy, ass, or tomato soup for that matter, variety sells … the constant change attracts an audience.

So, I decided not to complain about it and return to the future by going back into design and antiques, starting with gluing some more shells on frames … and it felt good, being in charge and not having to deal with inept editors or stylists that clearly cannot style themselves out of a brown paper bag, or a sitting, let alone support or inspire me to collaborate on making a memorable image that stretches beyond the pedestrian. Surely I have worked with incredibly inspiring, sweet and talented people, but you’d be amazed to see what the majority of today’s editors carry around IQ wise and creatively

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JF: How do you source your pieces and merchandise since you have everything classification from an ashtray to an armoire? What makes these pieces unique?

 MVM: I only do what I like, possibly not only for commercial purposes but within this stretch of my imagination lays the store’s success. My shop looks nothing like any other store. Subsequently it is not for everybody, but it has a small group of fans and I am a happy boy. The pieces are my most personal items like my shells mirrors and chandeliers, all hand made by me and then I’d also mention my ‘Mientje’ vase, named after my grandmother Wilhelmina. It is a tramp art head vase that I have had for 30 years and now produce variations of it in assorted shapes and colors... I love textiles and there is a great collection of antique textiles and vintage pieces that I can pull from for interiors.

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JF: Who is your target customer and why did wait until now to open a shop which will certainly increase your workload given your already busy schedule?

MVM: Absolutely anybody with a wallet I'd say makes a perfect customer. As much as I would like to say I am a busy photographer, truth to be told, I am not. I have not had a paying job in several years since people are intimidated by sex. My work contains a fair amount of that as you might agree and the me-too movement has not exactly been a friend to me.  Anything blatantly sexual is seen as ‘mauvais gout’ and objectifying. My point, as a photographer, has always been to push the envelope (if you like) of both sexes; to explore both sides. Masculine versus feminine and the reverse at times, so as not to lens what is expected but what is what some might label disturbing. For example, shoot a woman in charge and powerful, legs open and willing AND in charge; a man fragile, head off center, back and ass arched, etc. … in the case of my men, this is conceived as HOMO EROTIC, GAY, effeminate, etc. … Homophobia is rampant at publishers like Conde Nast and Hearst and I am quite frankly no longer interested defending myself. I take a very honest picture … Take it or leave it. I love shooting women and men equally, I have never treated anyone of them disrespectfully or exploited them. Sexually prowled on them? Yes, of course! I am a photographer, I portray my vision on my subject matter and this is what makes my picture MY image…but all of that is done intellectually. Most people think I am an absolute SLUT but truth be told I happen to not be black listed by anyone for sexual inappropriateness. Anybody that truly knows me knows I am far too shy to bother anyone. I might have my fantasies, but they remain just that.

That said, I am still working in 2018 on the Taschen Big Penis Book and as complicated it is to ‘cock hound’ these guys around, the book is going to be a shocker and simultaneously extraordinary on  many planes!

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JF: If you could choose any items that you wanted to display and sell in the shop, what would they be and why?

MVM: The entire Trump family on liquidation sale. Nuff said!

atelier mvm los angeles 8055 beverly blvd. los angeles ca 90048 .... or follow on Instgram

www.thekinsky.com/conversations/atelier-mvm-matthias-vriens-mcgrath

meet PEDRO BOREGAARD .. the jeweler's jeweler

Well, that time of year is upon us once again and there is no better gift than one that can be treasured, worn and turned into an heirloom to be passed on as part of one’s legacy or foot print, if you will. Of course I speak of  jewelry, of the “precious” variety,  which speaks to your individuality, personality and most of all to your style.

 

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Pedro Boregaard offers you a selection of jewelry that sets him and you apart from the flock; he is above all a designer’s designer. If you are looking for pieces that might resemble the grandiosity of a Cartier or a large gemstone creation from Harry Winston, well then, nothing to see here BUT if you want statement making pieces that are flawlessly designed  and executed in the tradition of the heritage brands ... well then step right up. 

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From Tahitian pearls to tourmalines, from stainless steel to sterling silver and of course yellow, white and rose gold; this designer uses them all. He combines the most modern of design with the workmanship of the masters to render jewels that are to covet and lust for. 

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Boregaard runs the gamut from rings, bracelets, necklaces to belts and one of a kind gew gaws that would be hard to find anywhere else within the sphere of fine jewelry. If you know Hemmerle and who doesn’t know Tiffany, but those were the brands where this brilliant designer cut his teeth and gave him the esthetic he has honed and developed during his decade’s long career. 

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The only caveat is that he located in Narrowsburg New York and not on Madison Avenue but he can be viewed on his website and you can be assured that what you see is what you get! .. Or its possibly time for a road trip to visit him in his eponymous shop where I’m sure there is even more than what is available on the site

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So now in his own words... Pedro Boregaard...

What was the path you took to arrive to where you are today? Missteps or if you would change anything?

“No, I would not change anything.  I always followed my gut first and did the thinking afterwards. Sometimes I was shocked about my own decisions but it seems whatever I decided, whatever path I took served me well in the end.”

Can you speak to the topic of inspiration and your “inner drive?”

Yes, one can speak of an inner drive. A psychic once told me “you can’t leave anything alone, not change it or use it in ways nobody did before or trying to improve it. That sums it up. Inspiration can be anything; I find the difficult part is the editing of these ideas. What in the end one really wants to do. Than having sorted that out I begin to chisel away everything unnecessary. I guess the art is to know when and where to stop. Some pieces I can visualize so perfectly that I almost loose interest to do them. Others I have to draw or just start working on wax or metal until it reveals itself. That is by far more interesting. Than after finishing it I in general have lost completely the ability to judge it. I put it away for some time and then looking at it later I am surprised I created it.

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Let’s talk about your present situation and can you tell us what your end goal is here?

I wished I knew. Somebody asked me in the store the other day: how did you end up here in Narrowsburg. I knew what he meant but I said, how do you know I end up here? Still, I do have plans. Presently I am trying to reduce my whole operation, inventory etc. keep the store but come to the point that I can do what I want when I want. God knows I might have more work than ever but it should be (as long as health allows it) completely at my leisure. At least that is what I am hoping for.

If you could invite any 5 people top dinner who would they be and why?

That is difficult. The people who come to mind first, are all dead. -- Gene Moore comes to mind who was a close friend and helped me a lot at Tiffany’s --Julius Cohen (of Madison Ave.) my mentor after I left Tiffany and who helped me to open my first workshop at 48 W 48^th Street. Rea Lubar my fabulous PR lady. You might even know her or of her. She put Hermes on the map in NY, Perry Ellis, Velcro (lol (etc. ---Christiane Zimmer the daughter of Hugo von Hofmannsthal and her welcoming house on Commerce Street full of the literary world…to mention some. Well, times past. Actually I would love to have some dinner or lunch with you! I always enjoy your posts on FB and I am sure it would be a joy to talk to you with your immense knowledge of and insight into the fashion world as starters. Plus we lived both in the same city during a very exiting period. I guess there are lots of notes to compare.

There are of course people, younger people, young people I love and admire because of their beauty or accomplishments and talents in whatever field but I grew up in a very artsy and liberal milieu in Munich not only through my Mothers connection to the theatre but also through my guardian who was the director of the Munich Opera and beauty, fame and fortune never impressed me (at least not for long) and people are in the end people. So these days I rather admire them and what they do best from a distance than have that wonderful picture I have of them tarnished. …and then I could be terribly wrong.  I guess I am getting old.

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If there was such a thing as a dream collaborator or collaboration, who or what would it be and why?

There never was. I left Germany, I left England I started my own business, I always lived on my own because I followed as they say my own drum.  I work well with people. My employees always stayed for many years but I always had strong ideas what I wanted and needed always a lot of freedom.  So the idea didn’t come up nor did anybody ask me. 

http://www.boregaard.com