reuniting with Marcin Lobacz .. haute couture

To kick off the Haute Couture collections for fall 2017 it seems like a wonderful idea to revisit Marcin Lobacz who, since last visited some 2 years ago,  is wiser, more prolific, more accomplished and still talented beyond his years. He certainly understands the breadth and nuance of Haute Couture and the women who inhabit that world.

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Marcin possesses a wealth of knowledge and a seemingly never ending reservoir of talents. He is no stranger to the likes of made to measure due to his early experiences within the arena of costume design for opera, dance and theatre. His skills have also garnered the attention of a formidable and non-conventional clientele including HSH Princess Lilly zu Sayn Wittgenstein and HRH Princess Tessy of Luxembourg. Marcin’s fashion philosophy is predicated on confident women who possess great strength and a greater sense of individuality.  These two personality traits are also this designer’s most marked characteristics … well other than his matinee idol looks... think Gary Cooper! He is a rarity in the seas of sameness that populate today’s world map of fashion … he rises above so many!

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Philip Treacy said of him “He is a fashion animal. Like us ... he is obsessed with the fashion”

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It is truly a privilege and my honor to have met and followed this young man on his journey fueled by and driven by his boundless ambition and talents. Without question, he is evolving as a designer who deserves recognition for his skillset and his oeuvre… so here he is in his very own eloquent words….

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Jeffrey Felner: Can you give us a brief rundown on your history?                

Marcin Lobacz: My life is incredibly dynamic and therefore I would love to think about Marcin 2017 as a question rather than an answer. Keeping busy and open to new challenges is of utmost importance to me; that keeps me excited. Obviously I could present myself in a certain way at this particular moment in time, however, I have learnt to embrace the change since who knows what tomorrow brings … Having taken off on my fashion journey with my first fashion show in in 2002 as a child equipped with a big dream, determination and the greatest support for my vision from my wonderfully patient and loving parents. And that was pretty much it, which for a 15-year-old lover of haute couture seemed all that I needed to conquer the world of course (!!!). Having always worked very hard, actively pursuing as opposed to just waiting for things to happen made the adventure second nature to me so in spite of my success in my country creating dresses for high profile clients, one day I just got on a plane to London to fight for a place at my dream school, Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design; my portfolio was accepted, and so began a more international professional pathway. I gained experience working for other designers both during and after my college years, while simultaneously developing my own brand. One thing leads to another; operating in many different fields of fashion and dressing people from all walks of life contributed to my progression. I avoid describing myself because that remains the privilege of those around us. Nevertheless, I know myself and I know what I want so I can definitely say that not only am I a dreamer but also I am more and more a warrior … fighting for my beliefs. This has always been my life but the contemporary world requires most people to hide their sensitivity and just be very, very tough…

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JF: Do you have style icons or fashion mentors who influence you or have molded you or your work? Who and why?

ML: As for the style icons, Marilyn Monroe has always been very special and dear to my heart … the one and only, my ultimate ideal of female beauty and the real goddess. She was unique and ahead of her times - her intellect, talent, courage, natural sex appeal and mystery … I love women of complex contrasts, who stimulate my imagination and intrigue me; sharp, unpredictable, taking chances, surprising, who don’t give safe answers and always makes a statement and that is exactly what Ms. Monroe never failed to deliver. She dared to wear what was considered not safe enough back then and she did it in the most sensual yet elegant way with an incredible aura of secrecy around her. Her personality and style were multi-dimensional and she innately had what others never mastered, no matter how hard they tried.

When it comes to fashion heroes, Monsieur Saint Laurent has always been my number one. He had great influence on my life, feeding my instinctive desire to work in couture. As a real genius and truly sensitive artist, he shared his heart and soul with the world, creating the iconic, timeless interpretations of glamour. He paid attention to the way fabrics moved and put emphasis on how women wore his creations, as opposed to looking only at what they were wearing. The echo of his style is still present today even though he is no longer with us. No other designer contributed to fashion to that degree and in the same way. He gave women a wardrobe but also gave them the power to conquer the world. He was creating for women with a lifestyle and his designs certainly had what it takes to make wearers feel and look this way. He will always remain my hero and the greatest couturier of all time.

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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

ML: Again, Monsieur St Laurent (if he accepted my invitation!) - He was a genius and I could speak endlessly but words seem too shallow to reflect his great influence on me and my life. The legacy he left speaks for itself without any further explanations and that is the biggest achievement of any designer.

Coco Chanel is another style guru for whom I have unending respect. There would be so many questions that her patience might be challenged! She was so brave and unapologetic, turned the world of fashion upside down with her effortless casual elegance, completely different to what was considered elegant back then. Such actions require charisma, determination, strength and personality.

I would certainly have many synergies to discuss with Madeleine Vionnet. “The queen of bias-cut”, just like Chanel, moved away from stiff constructions towards a much softer, dynamic look, moving with the wearer, so close to my own ideal of beauty. I use a lot of bias-cut in my dresses - a technique, which involves many secrets and requires years of experience to master so a dinner with such an expert would be invaluable.  

I have always admired Lee Alexander McQueen as he was one of the reasons why I decided to pursue my dream of studying at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. His sharp tailoring, innovative construction, dark aesthetic and fierce decadence still fascinate me. He was a real Artist.

Last but not least, Erté whose universe of exotic extravagance, appreciation for beauty of the human body, magical stage design and elegance of Art Deco illustrations, which next to Art Nouveau, is my favourite period in the history of art. I love the sensitivity behind his work as well as its theatrical romantic mood, so dear to my heart because of my own background.

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JF: What do you find most fulfilling about what you do and why?         

ML: I am very passionate about the clientele of haute couture which is all about unveiling part of their mystery, making dreams come true and providing a key to a completely different world, which is very fulfilling indeed. I get to explore their lifestyles and come up with ways of displaying their individuality. All usually starts with drawing, which still is one of the most enjoyable parts of the creative process for me, alongside working on the construction of my designs – all patterns are made by me. It gives me great joy to turn vision into reality. The cut has to be impeccable – if a woman feels comfortable in her dress she walks differently, speaks differently and simply feels on top of the world. I find it beautifully enriching and rewarding since her happiness is mine.

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JF: If you could select any collaboration, who or what would it be and why?

ML: I would welcome the chance to create for the houses with core brand values focused on elegance, glamour and craftsmanship, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Alaia, Valentino, Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Vionnet or Lanvin. My admiration for these heritage brands would certainly make working for them a truly rewarding experience.

When it comes to dressing somebody in particular, I would love to design for Cate Blanchett. She is effortlessly elegant, has great presence and definitely stands out in all her wardrobe selections. Ms. Blanchett consistently shows a designer’s work to its fullest advantage, creating memorable and indelible images. Being such a mutli faceted actress as well a woman of substance, she is equally adept and skilled when it comes to her wardrobe choices. 

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 ***Andrew Hiles | andrewhiles.com grooming: Natasha Lakic | natashalakic.com

www.marcinlobacz.com     www.facebook.com/MarcinLobaczDesign 

Meet Marcin Lobacz.. harbinger of design

To kick off the Haute Couture collections (days away) and to start the New Year, it seems like a wonderful choice to offer you the chance to meet a young man who is wise, prolific and talented beyond his years. He certainly understands the meaning, the scope and the nuance of the world of Haute Couture.

This is a gentleman of great knowledge, charm and talents. He is no stranger to the likes of made to measure due to his presence within the areas of costume design for opera, dance and theatre. His skills have also garnered the attention of the fashion savvy when dealing with his formidable and non-conventional female clients. His fashion philosophy is dedicated to women of strength and individuality which also happens to be two of his most marked characteristics. He is a rarity... a treasure!!  … In the sea of sameness he stands out and rises above the rest!

Philip Treacy said of him “He is a fashion animal. Like us ... he is obsessed with the fashion”

It is truly a privilege and an honor to have met a man with such an amazing resume and story as well as a man with a future spot in the fashion pantheon. Without question, he is destined for all great things that will lead to the international attention that he so richly deserves.

Please take the time to read this and learn that there are designers who actually speak from the heart and do not use words  as a means of trying to be taken seriously or explaining away ugly clothes…. You know, like the  Raf’s and Nicolas’. Marcin Lobacz is indeed a cut above the rest…… are you listening Floriane ... Delphine??

1-tell us a little of your background just to lay the foundation for everyone to get acquainted with you...

In my life everything happened the other way round – I started working in the fashion industry before my formal education in this area. I grew up in the Operetta and Musical Theatre where my Mother performed as a Soprano and I was lucky to be surrounded by the magical world of wonderful classical music, fabulous costumes and the appreciation for Arts. I think it was the best environment for my natural passion to grow. When I was still at the gymnasium, I decided to design and make a capsule collection, which was followed by my first catwalk show at age of 15. Then I produced the next collection and at 17, my first clients appeared: The opera singers, who sang at the Metropolitan Opera in New York, The Royal Opera House in London and The Deutsche Opera in Berlin. I started my formal fashion education only after I had passed my Baccalaureate. I have always been fascinated by the old school techniques and the heritage of Haute Couture so I was taking relevant courses, which developed my pattern making, sewing as well as millinery skills, hence my background is very much in the field of made to measure wardrobe. I moved to London in pursuit of my dream to study at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. Simultaneously, I got the chance to broaden my experience at Julien Macdonald and Philip Treacy, with whom I had the pleasure to work on projects for Armani Prive, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy, both ready to wear and Haute Couture. I graduated in 2012. Currently I am developing my own label based in London.

2-how and why did you go from Philip Treacy to your present situation?

I have always considered Philip as one of the gods in my personal Pantheon of Fashion due to his surreal aesthetics. My fascination with hats and the desire to develop my millinery skills led me to his workroom, where I felt like in Aladdin’s cave with the sounds of Studio 54, Grace Jones, 1970s disco as well as the cross over classical music in the background. All of a sudden, I became a little boy again and found myself in the theatre that I grew up in, with all the feathers, ribbons, trims and the most unusual materials in every corner. Even the smell was similar, the one of the theatre backstage, very magical, like the most beautiful perfume, still present in my childhood memories. Philip taught me a lot about proportions, so crucial in millinery where every millimeter counts. His perfectionism, precision and perception for beauty are very close to my own sensitivity. Unfortunately, I got violently ill due to an allergic reaction to one of the stiffeners that I had to use. As a result, the doctor forbade me to work with chemicals ever again, which is like telling a florist to stop working with flowers. It was very sad but I had to come to terms with it.

3-what is your inspiration when it comes to designing... especially when it applies to wardrobe pieces rather than costumes?

There is no inspiration that would be stronger than the truth, one’s real feeling and emotions, first-hand experience. It can be a glance, gesture, scent or sound. Particular inspiration depends on the collection but when it comes to the wardrobe pieces, it is always women for whom I design and their dreams- as opposed to costumes, which help me, fulfill my own visions. I look at women and that is where the inspiration comes from- who they are, what perfume they wear, how they live, what they dream of… unveiling part of their mystery. I would like to accentuate a woman’s individual personality and make her feel as if she were born in my creations. Also the fabric that I decide to use might be an inspiration. One idea sparks the next. I don’t approach the process of creation with preconceived concepts. I find it very important to remain open and let it go, let the research carry you through the journey, without trying too hard. In this way idea development is more thorough and the result remains fresh. Searching for inspiration is very parallel to music– I used to play the piano and now my material is like notes. If you are sensitive enough, able to read and listen, they tell you exactly how to play. Then it is just a matter of interpretation.

4-how did the costume/stage design segment of your career come about? And what is it about costume design that attracts you?

Life is all about the circle of energy and what you get, you should give back. I received the most wonderful gift of a childhood spent in the theatre, which shaped my sensitivity. I feel almost obliged to share all these memories, which I cherish, through costumes.  I am a great opera and ballet lover and they keep on playing a very important role in my life. Costumes enable transition, which is cathartic not only for the audience but also for the designer. Stage gives me more freedom and is the place where I can breathe creatively without compromising too much. Fashion and the whole world, including people’s mentality, has changed a lot since the times when I dreamt of being a designer – it has become more of an exciting business rather than the art form it once was. In costumes one can push far more boundaries and create a completely different world, whereas fashion has always reflected the existing one and all changes that take place in it.

5-what is the big picture when it comes to Marcin Lobacz as designer and human being? Let’s say in 10 years...

My approach to fashion is highly determined by my view on existence in general. As a human being, I am very appreciative of life and what is given to me. I am very positive and never take anything for granted. I have my dreams but don’t plan too far ahead, because in fashion, as in life, everything can change overnight. Especially in today’s world of dynamics, where nothing is what it seems and future becomes past so quickly. We are living in the era of an overwhelming number of products being thrown at us from everywhere and the reality is becoming more and more commercial. I do hope that with time it will all bounce back, customers will be fed up with it and start to appreciate unique items progressively, buying less with the focus on the quality. Haute Couture is my greatest passion and I would love it to regain its power, even if it is going to happen in a completely different form- who knows what the future brings…  Personal progress is very important to me and my goals are definitely related to developing my brand further. I dedicated my life to my dreams and I work to make them come true when the right time comes. Having said that, I am a great believer in remaining open minded without pushing any fixed scenarios.

6-who are the style and fashion mentors/ icons that inspire you personally and professionally and why?

Monsieur St Laurent has always been my Hero. No other designer contributed to the history of fashion so much. He gave women not only the greatest amount of key items in their wardrobe but also showed them how to use their power to compete with men on every possible level. He was a Genius and I could speak endlessly but words seem too shallow to reflect his great influence on me and my life. The legacy he left, speaks for itself and that is the biggest achievement of the Designer.

I have always admired Lee Alexander McQueen and he was one of the reasons why I decided to pursue my dream of studying at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. His sharp tailoring, innovative construction, dark aesthetic and fierce decadence still fascinate me. He was a real Artist.

Last but not least, Erte and his universe of exotic extravagance, appreciation for beauty of the human body, magical stage design and elegance of Art Deco illustrations, which next to Art Nouveau, is my favourite period in the history of Art. I love the sensitivity behind his work as well as its theatrical romantic mood, so dear to my heart because of my own background.

7-what would you say are your design signatures as well as your curriculum (essentials/routine) when it comes to designing?

I wake up with music and I fall asleep with it. I wouldn’t be able to live, nor create, without it. As I said, especially classical music- when I hear it, a stream of thought begins, images of colors, texture, shapes arise immediately and they can become the starting point for my collection. Mother Nature is my real muse, who influences what I design to a great degree. My signature is what I call “Neo Art Nouveau”- it is all about the organic shape, movement, freedom, careless glamour and effortless chic. The soft look and dynamic cut, mixture of groovy punk and Haute Couture that can be played with and modified as the night progresses. My Woman is a force of nature – sharp heel and sharp intellect, completely unapologetic. She is a Man’s equal; rebellious, adventurous, powerful, feminine yet masculine at the same time. I want my pieces to enhance the mystery around her.

8-if you could invite 5 people to dinner...  past or present... who would they be and why would they be at your table?

Marilyn Monroe- the one and only, my ultimate icon and the number one Goddess. No words can express how unique and ahead of her times she was. She has always been very special and dear to my heart. Her intellect, talent, courage, style, beauty, natural sex appeal and mystery … there are so many questions that I would like to ask her.

Marquis de Sade- His controversial life and philosophy have always intrigued me. It would be very exciting to discuss his views with him, talk about the dualism of human nature and the continuous internal conflict of good and evil.

Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky- My favourite Composer. I still remember listening to his Symphony No. 6 in B minor "Pathetique" for the first time, which left me completely mesmerized … Music born from the greatest emotions, euphoria interwoven with frustration. I would be curious to find out if a conversation with him would reach as deeply to my soul as his music.

Hans Christian Andersen- The master of transcending time. The wisdom of his writing helped me develop my sensitivity and learn basic truths about life when I was a child, and now, after removing the beautiful cover of the fairy tale, I can still easily relate those lessons to my life as an adult and unveil so many deep meanings. I would love to share dinner with a man who managed this.

Nicollo Machiavelli- I really do hate politics. Nevertheless, I would love to have him at my table and explore his points from “The Prince” with him, but in a more a humanist context. I consider it to be a very well written piece and Machiavelli’s realistic observations are incredibly relevant. Although they were written down during the Renaissance, they could almost be treated as the guidance in the brutal jungle of today’s world.

9-so far in your young career, what would you say has been your crowning achievement to date and why?

I want to see my life as a quest. I wouldn’t like to crown any of my achievements so far as that would mean closing a certain chapter. I believe that the most beautiful experience belongs to the future rather than the past. I have obviously done this and that, but I really enjoy pushing myself and discovering new things, setting new goals. It is the same with the process of designing which is never finished at the stage of illustrating. I always question while creating before the final piece comes to life. That applies to everything in my life, including my achievements.

10-if you could be in a dream situation, could dress a dream client … what would it be and why?

My dream client is a woman of great complexity and contrasts. The one who stimulates my imagination and never fails to intrigue me: sharp, unpredictable, taking chances, surprising, who doesn’t give safe answers and always makes a statement. She dares to wear what is considered not safe enough. She has the aura of secrecy around her, she doesn’t reveal too much and there is nothing more sensual than mystery. She is multi-dimensional, has strong personality but at the same time is so feminine and glamorous. I can see both the light and the darkness in her.

11-what do you think sets you apart from other designers?

The music of my soul.

www.marcinlobacz.com

www.marcinlobacz.com/fashion

Marc-Antoine Barrois.... The Men's Couturier

For the sartorially inclined there are two terms that are the “high-water mark” in the world of made to measure fashion. They are haute couture, if one is of the female persuasion, and bespoke, if one wears a suit as their uniform of choice. The fact is simply that it is just a matter of semantics and habit that each euphemism is applied in these particular ways. The meanings are very much the same as they both “say” custom made and both speak to the aspects of being made by hand and customized to a specific client.

Today is about a young gentleman who uses the terminology in a most 21^st century manner as he has labeled his body of work/collection and profession as Couturier for Men.  The clothes are of the most modern yet fabled designs and utilize all the textbook methods of the art but Marc-Antoine Barrois has massaged them in the most contemporary of ways that befit the most discerning of clientele.

It only makes sense that this treasure can be found in the home of Haute Couture.  Have a look at what an “haute couturier” has to say about fashion and life!

1-What is the most treasured possession in your wardrobe?

Some of my first collections …  vintage garments despite I am not wearing it anymore.

2-What is your most sterling trait and what trait do you treasure most in your friendships?

I am enthusiastic and curious

3-What is your bliss?

I love so much when a client is happy to wear his own suit for the first time and so sad when he doesn’t show happiness… I hope the day one is disappointed he would tell me!

4-What is your guilty secret?

Cheese ;-)

5-Where is your ideal home?

I love Paris and could live there forever as long as I keep traveling a lot. It is the perfect center of my world!

6-If you could not be a designer, what would you be

I admire talents I don’t have: I would have dreamt of being a ballet dancer or a pianist!

7-What is on your bedside table right now?

Antoine de Saint Exupery’s book “The Little Prince”. It’s always been with me, it’s my favorite book!

8-What do you wear to bed?

Kelly Calèche of Hermès

9-What if any, book are you reading now or last read?

I am between two at the moment. First is Honoré de Balzac’s “traité of Elegance” that a Canadian friend offered to me. It is really interesting. Second is my friend’s Jacqueline Pitchal roman “Mister Maybe” about improbable jet-set love story between Paris and Palm Beach…

10-What’s your advice to the “newcomer?”

Dream it, believe in it and work hard to make it happen!

11-Who or what is your inspiration/style icon?

Cary Grant in “Catch a Thief” – James Bond in most circumstances – Robert Redford as Gatsby ;-) Thought at first I have always been impressed by my grandfather’s style, really elegant, looking alike Hubert de Givenchy.

12-What is the best advice you ever received?

In my life I am acting like a sponge, taking all advices and each one is important, from my 73 years old tailor who gives me tips or Hermès’ executive officer who tells me what I should take care for the coherence of my projects to my family or friends’ advices. 

13-In 3 words or less, describe the current state of fashion.

In process

14-If you were a retailer; would you wear your own designs or shop in your own store? or where would you shop?

I love dark blue shirts& T-shirts so wherever I see one I like I buy it…

15-If you won a $200,000,000 power ball (lottery), what is the first thing you would buy or do?

I would invest $200,000,000 in my house of fashion!

16-If you could invite up to 4 people for dinner, who would they be…dead or alive?

Part of me would love a family dinner with ones I loved who are not in our world anymore but I am mostly looking towards life and would consider a dinner with Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, Steve Sadove (Saks dept. stores’ CEO) and Larry Gagosian (Contemporary art dealer & gallery owner) to explain them my history /DNA and ask them for their advices and help.

17-What is your favorite movie /or movie star?

Mary Poppins… I’ve always loved the idea to jump in a drawing and to experience any imaginary world.

18-What is the one thing you would change about yourself?

I encourage everyone to accept themselves as they are so I would change nothing… Thought with a magic wand I would make time goes by slower.

19-Whose opinion do you value most?

My opinion, my instinct or my emotions

20-What store or which designer do you most like to shop in or wear?

As I don’t have one favorite brand, I prefer concept stores with a multi brands selection like Colette.

21-What’s your take on magazines, books versus the internet?

I love paper magazines and often reproach internet for not producing their own editorials.  In my mind, the best would be a website publishing exclusive editorials and interviews/portraits every days or week and asking its readers to vote for their favorite ones that would be printed once a year in a special luxury paper issue.

22-Do you have a dream collaborator?

Personne!

23-If you could choose anyone as a client who would that be and why?

When I started doing couture for men I thought about Elton John because I would not have to channel my creativity. Today I would dream of making Cannes and Oscar’s ceremonies tuxedos for any actor or actress who would consider my work of unique pieces made to measure specially for them.

24-What’s your music library like?

Mostly classical music. I love Chopin and my favorite tubes are Brahms’ “Hungarian dances”.

25-What and where is your favorite meal?

At home when I host a dinner with friends… I love to make people I like meet each other despite their differences. I truly love crepes but my friends are getting bored of it… so I cook sauce dishes from the north of France where I am from. 
www.marcantoinebarrois.com