Céline by Phoebe Philo .. fall 2015.. pfw

Okay, so let’s see if this is clear... first you were the queen of clean... Spare... Spartan... unadorned... solid... slabs of  fabric in sort of a French version of the Row. Then moving right along after having found enough women who wish to look hidden in their clothes while wearing funny furry shoes, you graduated to some prints and all these fly away tabs and straps and more silly ewok shoes. Finally you reached your pinnacle when you decide that all that clean needs to be sullied by adding animal prints... zebra to be precise ... Some loosely woven distressed lace type fabric that looks like it is unraveling before your eyes and now instead of being all clean lines and edgy, your woman looks like she just got out of bed looks it... no pretense... no excuse. Have I got that right? Oh, did I mention you fell upon the “it” bag a few times so that more than made up the sales in clothing.

So now, we get the new dishabille Céline which sets itself apart from the Row by looking like you store your clothes in a pile which also sets you apart from the so called chic French version of Eileen Fisher!  Is that about right? OMG, I almost forgot there is inevitably some backstory and inspiration that will also distance you from your American counterparts ... how pedestrian of me to forget that! BTW can someone tell me where that “ripped off” sleeve is from.. I have seen it before ... more than once!

Now, let’s not overlook the shoulder harness and slapped on envelope flap pockets and those JPG inspired ribbed sweaters! Might I say all designed to enhance! Does it occur to anyone that even though these clothes are of the camouflage variety, one needs to be rather thin to wear them?

Here’s the deal, if this is what women want to look like and this is what passes for “new” fashion, well there is no climbing out of the abyss …even with a grappling hook. Or if this is fashion, what is Maison Margiela? Please discuss amongst yourselves and advise.

Céline by Phoebe Philo .. Paris ..spring 2015

This is a collection whose appeal evades most often but this season there is an odd appeal that can’t really be put into words but here goes….

The collection evokes a or stirs a feeling that it has matured as in grown up not so much with a specific age in mind. The clothes are yes, modern, IMHO, but without being offensively minimal or trying too hard. They appear to be well designed up to a point and that point would be there just might be a few too many flying panels and or excess flourishes. Those button through strips seem a bit de trop as does that fold over detail which in reality won’t look like that since the wearer will not pin down her arm under the fold. That little porthole dead center is, well, silly but not a deal breaker. What is somewhat amusing is the stitch tracery effect that was used a few seasons ago at Bottega Veneta and possibly in a few men’s collections if not mistaken, but again not a deal breaker as it looks good against the shapes where it was used. Ms. Philo apparently has some issue with prints as it just didn’t jive to have a sort of inane floral paired with what seems to be a rather stylish presentation for the season.

Overall the collection is visually appealing and some of the frou frou effects are amusing but might have been put to better use if the placement wasn’t so forced and a bit more conventional i.e. not such wide bands at the hems or on the hips! There is an ease of wearing factor which certainly plays into what has been seen and well received this season especially when handled deftly which this is for a change. My opinion seems to be colored that Ms. Philo designed a collection doesn’t seem to be forced or trying to be hippest, the latest, the greatest. My own personal reaction is... Excuse me ... salable, commercial and fashionable! All those dirty words that spell $$

PS. Ms. Philo certainly has made a pitch here for the “Spring Coat” which is surely something that hasn’t happened anywhere in many years

International style and fashion; Resort 2013 ..Givenchy .. Celine

*** mega slideshow ***