Showing posts with label international style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label international style. Show all posts

Monday, June 26, 2017

standing out in the crowd... meet Ben Desombre



At a time when most models are chosen for  their bodies, the good and bad of them, and what the gym has done for them rather than for their unique appearance, there comes along a man who has charisma and has attained his notoriety by being clothed and exuding an air of sophistication, wealth and unadulterated class. He has the looks of a film star and the sprezzatura that so few of any age can offer. He evokes the spirit where one would not find it difficult to imagine him cruising the Mediterranean on some mega yacht or skiing in Gstaad, sunning at the Hotel du Cap or just sipping an espresso at some sidewalk café in any fashion capital. He is the embodiment of what was once referred to as “continental
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Ben is the consummate example of a target customer than only brands abroad seem to understand and yet so many brands still assiduously ignore this fact. He is the epitome of an aspirational customer, think of the aura of a Gianni Agnelli or even a James Bond type of man... international, rich, tasteful, well-bred and so easy on the eyes. We in the USA seem to ignore the fact that there are generations of men who exemplify the beauty of a man at any age; yes you can classify him as a silver fox but to me he is so much more than just that general category and too much of a generic way of pigeon holing him.
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There is something to be said about not being stereotypical or fitting into a mold, think about the REAL trail blazers of the business who turned being a model into an art form … think  Tony Spinelli, Pat Cleveland, Lauren Hutton, Peter Keating, Gia, Pelito Galvez, Denis La Marsh  and  Tommy Garrett. These men and women brought more to the table than most of today’s assortments could ever aspire to since today they are mostly interchangeable and robotic at best. So in the tradition of the greats …. Here is Ben Desombre in his own words
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Can you give us a bit of background as to how you “arrived” at where you are professionally?


My background is quite standard for à French guy: grew up as a middle guy between 2 brothers, 1 had to be a "black sheep" I chose that. Meaning as a bourgeois, my destiny was supposedly to be  a good student to become a lawyer, real estate or something like that ...I was awful at school, ended at junior college to become a squash professional career, as the tennis and soccer player ended early, as lack of hard word, not talent... I became a decent player, doing the minimum, but still ended playing for France and was top 10 in my country for few years (6was my highest).

Then moved to the US to be close to my 1st daughter, as her mom was American. Picked up squash again as that was not a top sport at that time (93) but actually that was the step chosen by the IOC to change the American squash courts to European size. Therefore I have been able to teach this game to "the whole country", and became US National coach around those days for few years (juniors and women). Got recognized by the US Olympic committee "coach of the year 1999" for the sports of rackets among all the other sports coaches from all the Olympic disciplines.

In 2002  I moved to NY after a stint of Brasil for 3 years (got remarried there and raised my 3rd daughter) then after 4 years in the city, started some modeling as there was a demand for older classic men. I joined DNA in NYC and started some jobs such as MACYS, Martha Stewart show etc...I got my first contract in Japan in 2007, where I spent 3 months, then I came back to my appt in NY and decided NY was not for me anymore and moved back to Europe where I based myself in Paris. And since then, I worked for the modeling industry nonstop. I am today at 52 in the top 20 most working men in my age category, I have a great life, traveling extensively all over the world, and worked many great jobs and hope keeping at it next 10 years.
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If you could choose any collaborator or collaboration, who or what would it be and why?

As to find a collaboration, I would love doing a campaign for Ralph Lauren, Hermes, or any Italians, and doing a huge renowned perfume campaign.
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If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

i would take 6 people for diner actually and they would be: my mom that I miss daily, Barack Obama that I look up to, Bjorn Borg that I admired so much as a kid, Paul Newman for his amazing career as a film actor and especially as a human being and Christy Turlington that I find the most gorgeous woman and the unbelievable Bill Murray that for me is the funniest actor existing.
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Do you have any mentors or style icons that you admire and why?

I admire Roger Federer as I like his resilience and hard work multiplied by a huge talent is the ultimate equation associated to an amazing level of humility; make the word "an icon" the perfect sense.

I liked Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, and Robert Redford as actors etc....love old movies.

Otherwise Nelson Mandela is for me an amazing example.
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What has been your most exciting project so far and why?

My most exciting pro project is my squash career, the National coaching for the US for few years and the switch from being an athlete as a working model. Then personally my 3 daughters who are from 3 moms from 3 countries (American, Norwegian and Brazilian)

Monday, June 27, 2016

meet Filep Motwary the tsunami of fashion



The man is as fluent in his words as he prodigious with his photography; Filep Motwary is a tsunami within the fashion world. Although the name may not be on the tip of  everyone’s tongue he is a man on the move and ubiquitous on the fashion scene.  The saying goes “a jack of all trades, master of none” but what happens when he is the master of all trades? He is at once photographer, curator, critic, writer, historian, diarist, judge and always dealing with fashion in its broadest sense. He might be a wunderkind of fashion who envelops and absorbs all that he encounters. It is safe to assume that Motwary has never met a task he couldn’t handle or master and in this business that’s the perfecta!

 
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This interview precedes the U.S. release of his first book based on his first curated museum exhibit, both of the same name, Haute-à-Porter. In this young man’s life he has accomplished and been credited with so much more than most in this realm where knowledge  and intelligence are the rarity rather than rule. It was my pleasure to pin him down and have him tell us who he is and what he does and what’s on his mind so with that, here is Filep Motwary in his own words:


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Jeffrey Felner: First tell us a little about how you “arrived” at the present. What brought you to this point?

 Filep Motwary:  my resume as follows …

He started off his career assisting as a stylist for the Greek editions of L’Officiel and Vogue.

For four years he worked as head designer at the Athenian atelier Loukia for the haute couture and prêt-a-porter collections before moving to Paris to work for designers like John Galliano, Christian Dior and Chloe in mid-2000.
Motwary continues to create costumes for bespoke projects alone or in collaboration with jewelry designer Maria Mastori with whom they worked together on six pret-a-porter collections, from 2006 to 2010. His costumes have been presented in several of museums, including Modemuseum Hasselt in Belgium,Atopos, La Gaite Lyrique in Paris, Centraal Museum Utrecht in The Netherlands, Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Saint-Brieuc in Brittany France.

As a visual journalist, he collaborates with the digital Joyce.com in Hong Kong since 2011; He photographed projects for Giambattista Valli, Christian Louboutin, Vogue.fr, Vogue.it, New Yorker’s THE CUT, Boycott, Harper’s Bazaar, Wmagazine, Totem, Kenzo, Chloe, Sacai, Mercedes Benz, and TheStimuleye among others.
Between 2011to 2015 he collaborated closely with the founder and director of the Villa Noailles and Hyères Festival, Jean Pierre Blanc.

From 2005 to 2015, Motwary was the founder of Un nouVeau iDEAL which was included in “The World’s Top Fashion Blogs” book, edited by Susie Bubble and William Oliver, published by PRESTEL (2011).

In February 2014, Motwary was invited by Premiere Vision and Zoom by Fatex to exhibit a series of large-scale photographs as a solo show, titled “STREET IT BOYZ”.
Motwary is the curator of educational event FASHION ON SCREEN, a short films festival presented in Athens organized by Fashion Workshop, counting its second edition in spring 2015.

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JF: What was your most favorite assignment? Collaboration? Project?

FM: I take assignments that I like. It’s rare I do something under pressure, very rare, but I enjoy working with teams as much as I enjoy working by myself. I love my photo projects with Christian Louboutin for example or when I interview a personality that I have great respect for.


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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

FM: Irene Silvani would be the first; I enjoy our conversations so much. Then it would be Henry Miller, my favorite author to bring his immaculate eroticism and stories, model Guinevere Van Seenus because she always keeps my interest stimulated and I know nothing about her except that every time I see her on a photo I get the goosebumps, Helmut Newton because he was Helmut Newton, the photographer. Lastly, I would invite Liz Taylor and she would arrive dressed as Cleopatra.

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JF: Now, the book! Let’s talk about how the book came about and why the book came about?

FM: In 2012, I decided to start working on a project that aimed to put down a possible justification of where prêt a porter and haute couture cross paths.

For two years I was collecting visuals and placing them in thematic folders and categories while filling up my notebooks with ideas, photos I had taken while being backstage at the major shows, opinions I would hear here and there, and articles I would read online… Let’s say it was a sort of investigation for which I hired myself to do. It soon became a full concept and then Modemuseum Hasselt came in and allowed me to turn it to an exhibition.

Exhibitions are usually accompanied by a catalogue but instead I wanted a book, first to acknowledge the work of the designers that could not fit in the spaces of the museum and also to use it as a testimony of the current fashion’s state, the past and analyze the specific themes as presented in my project. Through 27 interviews and numerous examples of great photography and art, Haute-à-Porter became not only an exhibition but also a book that reflects sociology, history, psychology, theories and certain fashion terms and opinions on subjects never discussed before in such a context. I collaborated with Lannoo, known for great fashion publications such as Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeuster Monograph, Stephen Jones and many others…

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JF: What do you think of the present state of fashion and why? What would you like to see happen?

FM: Personally, I am involved in fashion and have deep respect for it. For 20 years I serve it from several angles. Hopefully all the people working in this industry, no matter their position or status, do it for the right reasons. Ideally, it would really be nice if some of the designers gave a chance to emotion again, like they used to. Some do still but it’s not enough. 
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Monday, May 23, 2016

meet Frederic Aranda a legend in the making



Amazon.com offers this terse biography of Frederic Aranda:  “he is a native Swiss photographer based in London, who contributes to magazines such as Vogue and Vanity Fair, and collaborates with brands like Cartier and Cutler and Gross.” This is a minuscule catalog of this artist’s oeuvre and doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of the man and his talents.
 
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As it turns out, Freddie as he is called by friends is one of those photographer/ artists that happens to be a legend in the making and much more than just the sum of his parts. He is one of the most gifted photographers of this era and who is undoubtedly an icon in the making. Oh, and he is charming and witty and carries an unmistakable mischief about him.
Lucky for me that Freddie is a friend to me along with his co-author and his longtime pal Christine Suppes. Together they gave the genre of fashion books a monograph that could have only been accomplished by 2 kindred spirits who have a single vision and a love for the visual as well as for fashion. (Electric Fashion, SKIRA)  In other words they wrote a love letter to fashion and style.
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“Suppes and Aranda describe this project as a journey, but this is an unbelievably intimate demonstration of one woman’s adoration of fashion with her “partner in crime.” Together, they have created one of the great fashion books to have come along in this millennium to date. “www.nyjournalofbooks.com/book-review/electric-fashion#sthash.B2VRE39g.dpuf
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The accompanying images speak for themselves even though Freddie has become known for his stellar and distinctive group portraits; he is an artist at heart whose “eye” is that of a portrait painter possibly of the Renaissance era. The clarity of image, the laser sharp line, the contrasts, the colorations and the intensity all account for the startling and mesmerizing reactions one has when each image is viewed. He has been the subject of several one man shows including one at the V&A which featured his work for Electric Fashion and one to benefit the victims of the Fukushima debacle in Japan. Don’t let me forget to mention that his subjects have included Dame Vivienne Westwood, Prince Phillip, Margaret Thatcher, Farrell Williams, Tom Ford, Ben Stiller, just to name a few!
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At the end of the day, it is my opinion that Mr. Aranda will more than hold his own in the pantheon of great photographers since despite his relatively young years he has achieved a professional quality and level of perfection that will rival the greats of the 20th century; in essence he is not some snap shot or fly by night flavor of the month photographer like so many who receive underserving praise.
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Now, it’s my pleasure to introduce you to Freddie in his own words:


Jeffrey Felner: Can you give us a brief synopsis of how you arrived to where you are today professionally?
Frederic Aranda: I am a self-taught photographer. I did a degree in Japanese at Oxford, during which time my parent's divorce got me taking pictures of my mother to help her feel beautiful during a difficult time. It was a distraction (for both of us) at first. In order to improve technically, during term time I practiced on my Oxford classmates so that I could return home to Switzerland during the holidays to take better pictures of my mum. Yet, it’s what I did photographically at Oxford, not at home, which gained momentum and which got me launched as a portrait photographer in London after completing my degree. I've been working professionally as a photographer for about 10 years in London, and have done three solo exhibitions (the last one at the V&A), many editorials, and a book. The pictures of my mother have never been shown anywhere but they contain all the passion and naiveté of an aspiring photographer.
 
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JF: Let’s speak of Electric Fashion: how did it come about, any plans for a sequel and how did you and Christine meet and decide to do this?
FA: Electric Fashion (MAY 2015) is collaboration between myself, shooting all the pictures, and Christine Suppes writing all the texts. It's my first book. It came about organically after I started photographing Christine's clothes and realised that there was an incredible collection here which needed to be shared with the outside world. The question then became how to share it in a unique way, and that was where I had to convince her to pose for me in the clothes as opposed to shooting them just as still life. We are not planning a sequel to Electric Fashion but are working on something different which draws on my experience as a portrait photographer and on her life experience in California.
 
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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why them?
FA: My guests would be John Waters, Bette Midler, Gina Riley, Jane Turner and Princess Diana. All of them have/had a joie de vivre and a particular point of view that could only make for one hell of a dinner!
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JF: If you could choose any collaboration, who or what would it be and why?
FA: Anohni*, truly a remarkable inspired talent
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JF: What’s the best advice you ever received and from who and what’s your advice to up and coming photographers?
FA: My advice is to find your voice as a photographer. Ask yourself why you are taking pictures every single day. The answer to that question will give you your subject matter. Also, kindness.
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* Anohni (stylized as ANOHNI), formerly known as Antony Hegarty or Antony, is an English-born American singer, composer, and visual artist. She is best known as the lead singer of the band Antony and the Johnsons.