CHANEL haute couture fall 2018

In the words of the late illustrious James brown …

One-two One-Two-Three uh!

Hot pants- hey hot pants uh! smokin
Hot pants- smokin that-hot pants

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That’s where it’s at a-that’s where its at
Take your fine self home
It looks much better than time
My fever keeps growin
Girl your’e blowin my mind

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Thinkin of loosin that funky feelin don’t uh!
Cause you got to use just what you got
To get just what you want-a
Hey hu!
Hot pants! hey! hot pants smokin!
Hot pants make ya sure of yourself -good Lord
You walk like you got the only lovin left

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Let’s get this straight from the onset… this was not one of my favorite CHANEL collections but the Kaiser offered us a few lessons here.

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This is what a pale palette looks like in the hands of a master….Think Mamamiamariameatball and her mishandling of that concept. This is how you make box pleating and stitched down pleats look sexy and ethereal…. Think Mamamiamariameatball. This is what happens when you play to your clients and keep in mind this is direct to your client. This is giving your client so many choices and so much variety that she will be at ends to select just one or two.

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This is a collection of variations on a theme ... to me a tad too over themed but none the less Karl uses his shows to shock and provoke and tease… and SELL!

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As in every Chanel show, we get the Karl clunkers and there are some whoppers but in return we get to see couture at its best. The devil is in the details for sure, the facings, the trims, the fabrics, the incredible work that the Chanel ateliers can achieve …tweed! I’ll give you tweed but in sequins and from a far you’ll never know the difference. There is low key and there is high drama and best of all when he hits a high point it’s memorable…. One black pouf skirted party dress and his most exquisitely painterly Empire period off the shoulder gown of off white and grey complete with train.

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Back to the beginning  ... not my favorite on any level other than some incredibly beautiful pieces that shriek new. Does anyone recall a tabard and tunics? That’s what I kept thinking... this was slash and slit Karl... I guess you gotta come up with some kind of gimmick every season and make it work … he does make it work!

PS… hated the shoes… and nary a single accessory in sight!

Chanel fall 2018

And then came Karl… a walk in the park... autumn leaves at your feet and the Kaiser delivered a spectacle of fashion worthy of its setting. This aspect of fashion is rarely if ever matched other than during the Galliano/Dior era. 

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There is no question that when Chanel delivers... it delivers on every level... clothes...bags... shoes... jewelry and of course clothes... Clothes that will require revolving doors be installed at the shops. The collection is chock a block with details, easy palette, lots of gold and it wouldn’t be Chanel or Karl if there weren’t some major oopsies but who cares… the collection is modern, it is designed, it’s old,  it’s new… it is full of what Chanel ladies love and it is sure to bring new women of all ages into the fold.

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A liberal use of metallics, a lot of scarves, the gold oxfords and boots... details, trims shoulders, suits, dresses and perfect lace dresses that will never go out of style. It is important to take note there that there were no men, no kids and your focus was never diverted from what strolled through the park kicking leaves as they went. You could never mistake this for any other season but fall and for any other collection but Chanel.

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With that said, I might take back a little of it with that fairly summery garden like print but who cares because when a collection is of this enormity, you can just overlook its quirks and oddities. The opening salvo of blacks and greys and tweeds is just pure unadulterated Chanel.

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With each collection there is this looming sense that it might possibly be the last that the Kaiser will do and then the newest chapter will be one that no one will be able to foresee as Karl and Coco are inextricably in the minds of those in fashion and Chanel without Karl is almost unthinkable!!!

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CHANEL pre-fall 2017.. Métiers d’Art

The connection between Coco and the Ritz is inescapable. It seemed somewhat  fitting that the Kaiser decided to show the clothes as if in a throwback to a time when ladies went to luncheons and the main attraction was  a walk through fashion show. Albeit nothing as glam as what was served up 3 times here but the concept remains the same.

click image to enlarge .. DO IT!

click image to enlarge .. DO IT!

Métiers d’Art collection is the chest pounding show for the brand which boasts its prowess when it comes to embellishments and fabrics and in this case its variety and heaps of accessories. This is not a collection that is seen as themed or focuses on a trend; it is about clothes, the most glorious of clothes, one might even say it is like a reality show ... Chanel Gone Wild!  Or maybe it is just CHANEL on steroids.

click image to enlarge .. DO IT!

click image to enlarge .. DO IT!

These eyes saw references to the glories of France with very Louis like breeches and the fabulously court like gillies but not to be out done by the Lucite cap toes. There was this hint of Versailles decadence throughout. Again, the accessories were literally piled on with great affect. Honestly the veils and the flowers were unnecessary superfluous add ons to what was an extraordinary display of the art and craft of fashion. I mean really … the knitted puffer, the encrusted bead work, the fringes, the feathers, the no nonsense color palette... Karl is way ahead of the flock and sadly one must think of the eventuality of it all given his age.

click image to enlarge .. DO IT!

click image to enlarge .. DO IT!

At any rate, this is a collection with no age, no trend just and heavy on appeal.  It sings out to  the CHANEL lady who can afford to indulge herself in the most exquisite of fashion extravagance short of all out haute couture  and more importantly with clothes that possess great style, perfection of conception and timelessly fashionable.