Tuesday, July 3, 2018

CHANEL haute couture fall 2018

In the words of the late illustrious James brown …

One-two One-Two-Three uh!

Hot pants- hey hot pants uh! smokin
Hot pants- smokin that-hot pants
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That’s where it’s at a-that’s where its at
Take your fine self home
It looks much better than time
My fever keeps growin
Girl your’e blowin my mind
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Thinkin of loosin that funky feelin don’t uh!
Cause you got to use just what you got
To get just what you want-a
Hey hu!
Hot pants! hey! hot pants smokin!
Hot pants make ya sure of yourself -good Lord
You walk like you got the only lovin left
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Let’s get this straight from the onset… this was not one of my favorite CHANEL collections but the Kaiser offered us a few lessons here.
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This is what a pale palette looks like in the hands of a master….Think Mamamiamariameatball and her mishandling of that concept. This is how you make box pleating and stitched down pleats look sexy and ethereal…. Think Mamamiamariameatball. This is what happens when you play to your clients and keep in mind this is direct to your client. This is giving your client so many choices and so much variety that she will be at ends to select just one or two.
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This is a collection of variations on a theme ... to me a tad too over themed but none the less Karl uses his shows to shock and provoke and tease… and SELL!
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As in every Chanel show, we get the Karl clunkers and there are some whoppers but in return we get to see couture at its best. The devil is in the details for sure, the facings, the trims, the fabrics, the incredible work that the Chanel ateliers can achieve …tweed! I’ll give you tweed but in sequins and from a far you’ll never know the difference. There is low key and there is high drama and best of all when he hits a high point it’s memorable…. One black pouf skirted party dress and his most exquisitely painterly Empire period off the shoulder gown of off white and grey complete with train.
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Back to the beginning  ... not my favorite on any level other than some incredibly beautiful pieces that shriek new. Does anyone recall a tabard and tunics? That’s what I kept thinking... this was slash and slit Karl... I guess you gotta come up with some kind of gimmick every season and make it work … he does make it work!

PS… hated the shoes… and nary a single accessory in sight!

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