Couture ragoût fall 2017

There were fantastical, comical, unbelievable, magical, hysterical, certifiable moments ... there were stellar moments that celebrate as an almost hymnal or devotional to the art and craft of haute of haute couture… there were moments of headshaking insanity and hilarity … there were moments of WTF is that and WTF were you thinking… moments of high camp and low taste  ... moments of the future and remnants of the past and to say that there were peaks and valleys would be an understatement … but alas in very small doses there were moments that you felt the impossible seemed possible. 

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Without question there some astounding moments from the likes of Giambattista Valli that came in the form of georgette dresses that were so meticulously and rapturously draped as to recall the past glories of Madame Grès and there were embarrassments from those who took to borrowing from less that astonishing ready to wear. There were flights of fancy from Schiaparelli and crash and burns at Ralph and Russo. There were moments that made you wonder that if Iris van Herpen looks mainstream and not so conceptual, what has happened to the collective eye or has the world gone mad? There were costume epics at Guo Pei, hefty bag drama at A.F. Vandevorst and drag queen drama at Ronald van der Kemp. There were even moments of chic abandon at Alberta Ferretti and too many moments of high camp.

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The take away is that there is definitely a blurring of lines when the astute viewer ponders as to where is the border between haute couture and ready to wear aside from the made to measure aspect? To me there is a confusion that sways between pile it on till hell won’t have it and then paring it down til you yawn at the simplicity. There were clouds of tulle that looked as if they magically and impossibly floated down a runway and embroideries rich enough to adorn Elizabethan velvets; Valli provided some exquisite pieces that have been so sorely lacking during this abbreviated season but bloated  and he truly flexed his fashion muscle by not only sticking to his brand DNA but also expanding the Valli vocabulary.

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As a whole you really have to wonder where the elegance has gone and the times that made one slack jawed from what was presented. Have we become that jaded or has the body of work been “dumbed down?” Where are the countless times you wondered how in the world could they make this happen? What kind of vivid and boundless imagination could conjure such glorious moments of fashion? Can someone explain it besides saying the world has changed and this is the progression ... I find that to be a cop out rather than reason.

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Ralph & Russo ... Haute Couture sp 2015

My overview of this collection is as follows:

The design team is definitely focused on the classical glories of haute couture in a somewhat reverential way as well as nostalgically. There apparently are references to some of the greats of this métier: most apparently Dior, of the Christian variety and then some, Balenciaga thrown in to the mix. It is important to note as this is the couture of workmanship and craft and not so much about design that will set the world on fire.

The clothes are apparently perfectly executed in that very classical manner... Everything is precise; every detail has been taken to its limit, perhaps the clothes are too rigid in their overall look. There were some stand out pieces such as the mille feuilles cocktail dress and a couple of flawlessly constructed gazar (I think) gowns. What might have added some excitement here would have been some stronger colorations and some diversity in tones. Except for the black styles, so much seems to just be so tonal so monochromatic as to detract from the beauty of it all. What I am trying to say tis that the lack of color causes a monotony of sorts where all the style seems to run in to one another and that is unfortunate.

Without question these 2 have a flair for the dramatic with opera coats and the ubiquitous high low hemline. One longed for intense contrasts or blasts of colors. One can only imagine what would have been if the palette had been different. For me, these two surely deserve more attention in the future as the potential is there but the “journey” seems a bit misguided at the moment. One thing did enter my mind more so here than most collections and that is “do women really want to wear clothes such as these?”

Haute Couture fall 2014/5 Bouillabaisse

Haute Couture fall 2014/5 Bouillabaisse

No matter the season, no matter the city, no matter worth mentioning or not, there are always designers who consistently show and are never recognized. Yes, some are, well… one might say less worthy of any recognition and then there are those who are just as valid and worthy as the marquee names we grow so weary of seeing and reading about in their fawningly paid for reviews. When I say paid for … it is in advertising dollars! Or being favorably looked upon by the Tsarine of fashion!

Many, if not all of the so called “unmentionables” are not backed by mega corporations and may not have A list celebrity clients but they show every season without fail and fill the season with diversity that it so sorely lacks. So today, I won’t ignore them and I will try to at least give a few words as tribute to their efforts. If you are thinking this will be a form of pity, think not!! This is just throwing some light on who is out there and who may be in the white hot spotlight sometime soon.

In my mind these are all designers who make huge efforts to be noticed and taken note of so allow me to NOTICE! Some of the names you will recognize and some will require a little homework but if you know me, you know I am a proponent of fashion education so start researching and learning.

So here are the “ingredients” to my bouillabaisse:

Franck Sorbier- a long standing stalwart designer of the Haute Couture who was once compared to Hubert de Givenchy... my my how times have changed! Thee are signs of what was but he has surely evolved snce then.

Ralph & Russo- the British invasion of the haute couture and ones to keep your eyes on .. the range is from matronly to fabulous..perhaps even a bit of Galliano

Alexis Mabille- talents misdirected... What happened to beautiful clothes? What was once exquisite and chic is a bit gimmicky and cheap looking

Vionnet-Goga is gaga to think this flies! A very bad joke

Yulia Yanina- Time to leave mother Russia as an inspiration

Viktor& Rolfe-save the political statements for your treatise... red carpet?? Get it?? why bother with these so called political statements

On Aura Tout-there is something lurking the and needs to be watched! This is a pot that needs to be watch until it boils.. if you catch my drift

Rami Al Ali- loves the fronds ...love the mindset... love the workmanship and details... watch him!! incredible details some knock out pieces

Georges Hobeika-clothes for the ladies and now even the little girls... not everyone wants only 20 something’s! He has something for everyone

Rad Hourani-all tied up in day wear and on the heavy side...lots of Japanese influence but very modern 

Eymeric Francois-when you find a designer who says his influences are YSL, Mackie and Galanos, you are bound to see the flashier side of haute couture.. This is what makes couture so fabulous, taking the time treasured elements and translating them to current times

Julien Fournié- he gives you from the simplest to the most elaborate.. it is a touch of theater int eh world of haute couture, but it's all glamour

 So start searching and identifying …  let’s hear if you have any designers that I have left out so I can get to them next time around … BIENTOT to all