Showing posts with label atelier Versace. Show all posts
Showing posts with label atelier Versace. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Couture ragoût fall 2017




There were fantastical, comical, unbelievable, magical, hysterical, certifiable moments ... there were stellar moments that celebrate as an almost hymnal or devotional to the art and craft of haute of haute couture… there were moments of headshaking insanity and hilarity … there were moments of WTF is that and WTF were you thinking… moments of high camp and low taste  ... moments of the future and remnants of the past and to say that there were peaks and valleys would be an understatement … but alas in very small doses there were moments that you felt the impossible seemed possible. 

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Without question there some astounding moments from the likes of Giambattista Valli that came in the form of georgette dresses that were so meticulously and rapturously draped as to recall the past glories of Madame Grès and there were embarrassments from those who took to borrowing from less that astonishing ready to wear. There were flights of fancy from Schiaparelli and crash and burns at Ralph and Russo. There were moments that made you wonder that if Iris van Herpen looks mainstream and not so conceptual, what has happened to the collective eye or has the world gone mad? There were costume epics at Guo Pei, hefty bag drama at A.F. Vandevorst and drag queen drama at Ronald van der Kemp. There were even moments of chic abandon at Alberta Ferretti and too many moments of high camp.
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The take away is that there is definitely a blurring of lines when the astute viewer ponders as to where is the border between haute couture and ready to wear aside from the made to measure aspect? To me there is a confusion that sways between pile it on till hell won’t have it and then paring it down til you yawn at the simplicity. There were clouds of tulle that looked as if they magically and impossibly floated down a runway and embroideries rich enough to adorn Elizabethan velvets; Valli provided some exquisite pieces that have been so sorely lacking during this abbreviated season but bloated  and he truly flexed his fashion muscle by not only sticking to his brand DNA but also expanding the Valli vocabulary.
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As a whole you really have to wonder where the elegance has gone and the times that made one slack jawed from what was presented. Have we become that jaded or has the body of work been “dumbed down?” Where are the countless times you wondered how in the world could they make this happen? What kind of vivid and boundless imagination could conjure such glorious moments of fashion? Can someone explain it besides saying the world has changed and this is the progression ... I find that to be a cop out rather than reason.
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Monday, July 4, 2016

Atelier Versace Haute Couture fall 2016



When the latest men’s collection was shown recently, one had hope that Donatellamommamia had toned down the “fashion follies” and decided instead to go for a more subdued and some might have said chic mind set for the collection. Well, that must have been a moment as that sure as hell didn’t happen here.

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The first exits sort of gave one pause to think that perhaps La Signora had taken vintage Ferre and maxed it out to a Versace point of view; sadly that was short lived as the show progressed, or devolved,  so did the over worked, over wrought, “wrap  laden” antics of a designer who should know better by now. No question the clothes were made beautifully, no question they challenge the abilities of her ateliers and workrooms but holy hell “what was that?”
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The odd draping, the slashing, the cut outs, and color combination did nothing to enhance the clothes other than for the viewer to think WTF is going on here. To me it is sort of the Jetsons meet haute couture which by the way is no compliment...  take for example the ice stain twisted and draped pencil pant with futurist bustier and the I Love Lucy cut away overskirt!” Splain” that to me... Please!

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So much is twisted and contorted and almost tortured into place and then one of the few solid color pieces, deep red, looked as if the column was literally vomiting out draping... the mind boggles.
Someone else will have to go deeper in explanation; I am too busy shaking my head.
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Monday, January 25, 2016

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2016



In a recently published article from the Wall Street Journal, there is a quote from the new breed of Haute Couture customer and she said words to the effect that “when you are a newbie you might tell a vendeuse that that instead of showing me the $400,000 dress first, show me the $100, 000 one first!”
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Haute couture has always been the playground for the mad scientists of fashion. It is the arena where ateliers are put to the test, experimental shapes and seaming might be tested, embellishment is almost de rigeur, deceptive simplicity is fully at home here and most of all it is ALWAYS about quality. Remember this is a “season” devoted to the consumer and not the retailer so trends may be hatched but not even remotely necessary and always keep in the mind that this is the populated by about 1% of the 1% of the international population.
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Enter Donatellamommamia Versace who continually astounds with collections that are so over the top, so outrageous that maybe she needs to be awarded the Purple Heart for extreme bravery. Signora certainly puts the abilities of the ateliers to the test but sadly the end result is too often some costume drama starring the space aged aliens and almost always with a full cast of “working girls.” Yes, there are a few very “hot” red carpet numbers but there is not even a pretense of anything that might be remotely thought of as chic.
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While the usual salability factor is not even remotely part of the MO, there still has to be a reason to own these creations unless the buyer is one of those uber wealthy women who buys couture to wear at women only events held in the dark reaches of some potentate’s enclave. Where are on earth does anyone wear these otherworldly creations? As any fashionphile will tell you, it is mighty hard to make Haute Couture look cheap and tasteless and yet Donatellamommamia does it with great ease as if second nature. Slit, slashed, thigh high, Brazilian required, boob flashing, second skin, strapped, contorted, tied up and twisted are at the top of her “must do’ list except it all turns out looking like trying too hard and surely much ado about nothing. So many pieces are engineering masterpieces that they look as if they might have been conceived at MIT rather than in a design room. To a degree, the technical aspects of Haute Couture are part of the inherent make-up of the art but, Sweet Jesus, look at this pile! WTF are you thinking? Again it must be said that Gianni was all about sexy, even overtly sexy, but he never turned out gimmicky cheap looking clothes more suited for H&M rather than where they were intended.


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PS ..  stirrup pants .. REALLY?? and in the words of the illustrious Dolly Parton.. "it costs a lot of money to look this cheap!"

Sunday, July 5, 2015

Atelier Versace fall 2015/6 Haute Couture



Well gob smacked would be an understatement when speaking of this Haute Couture collection aka Atelier Versace. As far as my eyes can ascertain, the only things Haute about these clothes are the prices and their construction defying designs. Donatellamommamia …WOW!

Clearly the clothes are for occasions that might be less public than a Red carpet and more geared to private parties where satisfaction is the theme of the night. One cannot even be sure who would wear these clothes but without doubt they will be on some so called musical talent sooner than later. These are clothes that SCREAM and do it very very loudly. My question is... what are they screaming? One possibility is . .. How do I get into this dress??

Thematically, there is some odd Jesus or nymph influence and maybe some street walking goddess vision but one can’t really be sure about the what or why or how? Then there are some hippy influences with those “bell bottomed” sleeves and maybe the earth mother head bands but again, one cannot be absolutely sure. There also needs to be some explanation of the Victor Victoria dresses, the half on half off, the vampira thing, the couture tights and of course the ubiquitous platform boots and shoes … 
Maybe it is really all about Woodstock goes couture!

Again... kudos to the ateliers that actually were able to build these dresses as they truly defy any laws of gravity let alone taste. The take away here is simply for a huge sum of money you can purchase a costume which will be fitted to your body and  guaranteed to put a dent in your wardrobe allowance.

PS …  Gianni is spinning so fast that he must be in New Zealand by now… and making a return trip