Monday, September 10, 2018

Carolina Herrera ... spring 2019


Let’s see ... for his freshman outing at the house of Herrera, Wes Gordon has decided to throw away her clientele as if it was out with the dirty dishwater! The brand has been around for over 30 years and yes it has had quite a few permutations but it has really been building itself back to a status brand much in the way  Oscar de la Renta has evolved over the years and now we have this!
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What’s to say, save for a few pieces there is nothing here that rings of Herrera and her slick soigné personage let alone the customer she has been building. Whatever this is, and it ain’t much, other than a hodgepodge of  a little present day Valentino some old Oscar styles, some Diane Freis inspired pieces and some wedding cake dresses….. There is an archive … there is enough to build a look based on any part of that archive but instead it might as well just be renamed Wes Gordon or Clothes for the Taste Deprived!
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Someone needs to explain to me what or why these designers take these jobs with established brands and then rather than build on it they completely throw it all away so that they can put their imprimatur on the brand. Alas and now you see what happens when you toss out that dishwater for so a supposed fresh look.
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 As if …………………yawning… I did however love the boots

Prabal Gurung et al. spring 2019


This is a collection that is emblematic of what is happening on Seventh Avenue. Apparently many designers have decided it is a wise move to grow their businesses by making a segue into menswear………………..wrong!
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The men’s market is equally at sea and as saturated as the women’s if not even more so stuck for newness. Most of these designers will probably never produce the menswear but oh the Instagarmmers! The influencers? The selfies? The swag! All for likes which I have yet to see what that translates to.
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My assessment of this particular collection … well it was colorful! I needn’t go further; you already know the rest of the story
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Why do I next envision all stores will only have leased shop in shops and no more specific men’s and women’s departments just stores full of clothes … sort of all like all gender restrooms!
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Sunday, September 9, 2018

NYFW.. The shame of it ... SPRING 2019


Once upon a time fashion shows were reserved for the top tier of Seventh Avenue fashion. As time progressed, the bigger names of sportswear took the catwalk to promote a different way of looking at fashion as well as an alternative to the so called ‘couture” of the 550 set.  (figure it out)
Today, apparently if you can afford to put on what passes for a show, you get covered by Vogue.com which is still trying to conquer being relevant. 
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Fashion has become a source of entertainment and along with that came the opening of the floodgates for anyone who can stitch 2 pieces of fabric together and gather enough gawkers to cheer you on in some god forsaken out of the way venue.
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Snobbishly and unabashedly, I must say fashion was much more of an elegant affair when it was less democratic, and not in a political way, but in a way that the shows were filled with well-dressed people who actually bought clothes and wrote about clothes and friends of the designers. Going to shows today has become this sort of rat fuck with hordes of selfie takers as well as slews of wannabe influencers who know absolutely nothing about the business or world of fashion other than …………..pooh!! That’s hot! Oooooooh that’s fierce!   ……….ooooooooooooooh I’d love to wear that! 
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It’s rather pathetic to watch a 10 minute presentation on robotic models that can barely walk a straight line wearing clothes that no human being would be caught dead in. 
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Much has been said that when big business enters the world of fashion that the fashion itself suffers but getting on a show calendar here in at NYFW has now become a business and yes indeed fashion is mortally wounded and in desperate need of resuscitation if not a life line. I know that every young designer aspires to do a catwalk show as if that is the epitome of success but what no one seems to tell them is that spending 10s of or even 100s of thousands of dollars to fill a venue with friends and people looking for free stuff is not the road to success. Success lies in in actually selling clothes to store and in turn the stores actually selling the clothes.
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So here in a highly and possibly overly curated look at some of what passes for so called fashion is a series of what might be politely called oopsies or in less polite terms what is this shit and who thought this was runway ready?