Who - What _ Why Haute Couture

I'm far too busy shaking my head at this one so write your own... the images speak for themselves ..... click on the images to enlarge if you dare

 

Alexandre Vauthier Fall 2019 Haute Couture

In all my reviews of his collections I have always mentioned his skill at being a master tailor and at last it has taken a front row seat in this Haute Couture collection. Vauthier may only be associated with those red carpet short and “hot” sexy frocks that are worn by the music and movie stars but in this collection he shows himself off in a much more diverse way. There is overt sexiness and covert sexiness here!

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

The opening salvo of oversized jackets and tuxedos reminds me that  sometimes being all covered up is just as sexy as being barely clothed, there was something  highly sexualized about seeing a beautiful  model in a loose tailleur only imagining what was beneath. Think about the fantasy woman arriving at your door wearing a trench coat and nothing underneath! Do not think that he has forsaken his signature vavavvoom sexy dresses but they have taken on a much less theatrical tone and a much more couture like attitude.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

The draping is exquisite in the body hugging goddess dresses and gowns as is the lack of any enormous amount of embellishment, this is a collection that shows Vauthier’s skillset in the art of haute couture.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

What is also quite apparent it that he has opened the door for a wider range of clientele…. I was amused and even impressed by some of those milles feuilles prom dresses which might have seemed out of character but possibly is a foreboding of what’s to come in future collections. Do not think for a moment he has lost his edge... I believe he approached this collection with greater eye on the big picture rather than just the hype of some rock star wearing his clothes that were probably given or loaned rather than bought.

Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Couture fall 2019

Right off the bat, whatever those rosettes are placed center front on all the girls’ heads…WHY? Then again Armani always seems to have some quirks he works into every collection and this one seemed to have a few more than usual.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

One always expects jackets from him and jackets is what they got in bountiful amounts and in every imaginable glorious configuration. What one does not expect is that he went a bit too far in his FTN (free the nipple) approach which I found to be unnecessary given his lauded credentials and DNA. There was also a message of transparency in a variety of ways.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

The jackets were glorious and even the clouds of tulle were exquisite. Pants are the preferred bottom half and most of them fluid, languid and with a layer of tulle over then which gave an amazing effect to them. One always believes that Armani is about the long and lean even when softened to this extent but what one does not expect are full skirted gowns in varying permutations. In my opinion many of them less successful than his usual fare.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

The palette seemed to be a mix and spring and fall and if you are looking for a theme you might say he went dotty and titty for this outing. The black pieces unquestionably were the most potent as was the overall jacket statement.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

It is possible that an editor’s eye might have helped  but who’s to say that to this man who earned his  stripes during a career that’s spanned almost half a century and evolved into an independently owned and operated multibillion dollar powerhouse of fashion!

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

RR331 (Ralph Rucci) Haute Couture fall 2019

Haute couture is unquestionably a rarefied world for both designer and clientele. Mr. Rucci is a designer whose roots are deeply embedded in the couture, even in his ready to wear when it was in existence. His vision of couture is one of subtlety and refinement and not about embellishment or in other words Rucci sees couture in ways that Balenciaga, Charles James and possibly even Delpozo and Ferré saw it.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

These designers were and are the architects of fashion and Rucci is the torch bearer for them in that way. The clothes are constructed without equal and he finds ways to embellish without a sequin or a bead or a feather… all of which have become staples of Haute Couture except Chez Rucci.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

This is a very pared down and believe or not, somewhat more relaxed vision for him. The signatures are there … an extraordinary white column with endless buttons and signature seaming, the sheer inset infanta gown and of course sable. Even the palette has drifted from primarily black and white to now include some dustier shades which now reminds me of that perfect shirtwaist gown in lavender duchess satin (I think).

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

Rucci  will always be an a acquired taste as he is intractable as well as unwaivering and some say  stubborn in his ethic when it comes to clothes. Was I in love with all of it... absolutely not, (the Rick Owensesque pieces confounded me)  but there is more than enough to satisfy the most   diehard of  Rucci fans as well as possibly and hopefully, for his sake, attract a more diverse clientele. 

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

This is where he belongs, not filling racks in stores with $3000 dresses. He is so much more of an artist extraordinaire rather than one who produces sofa art ... if you catch my drift.

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE FALL 2019

First things first… let’s address the elephant in the room and that is that Virginie Viard will walk in Karl’s shadow for quite some time and every time she shows she will be compared to him! I would be of the opinion that for her solo freshman outing she has done Karl and herself proud ... and yes the brand as well.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

If you extrapolate the surroundings to be a library  it might very well be the library of the Kaiser. This collection is a pared down simplified Chanel that retains its entire DNA albeit without all the “stuff” that Karl was always so fond of piling on. Yes, of course there were some clunkers but Karl was never shy about his either. Madam Viard also flexed her design muscle by offering some pieces that are freshly designed and exude a softer and more fluid Chanel. Somehow, this collection feels younger in spirit than the usual fare. Seeing it in motion shows ra more fluid almost languid mood to it rather than the Teutonic and more rigid moments that Karl was so fond of.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

Yes, I love the bow shoe and even the flats work giving the collection a very relaxed sort of vibe.  You can call it Chanel 2.0 or possibly a cleaner reimagined direction for the brand. Only time will tell what the future holds.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

This collection is chock a block with all the Chanelisms that we know but somehow played down and not as in your face as was the norm. Plenty of suits, Plenty of easy dresses, shoulders are in play as well as a few Pierrot styles which come off quite well. There is a minimum of surface embellishments that are often associated with couture as well as with Karl and how he saw Chanel.

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE