Friday, February 28, 2020

Alexandre Vauthier fall 2020


This collection is rated R ... restricted for adult women who understand that sexy doesn’t mean tits to the wind and bare the nipple!
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 Vauthier, as I have written almost every time, understands that real women can look sexy and even hot just wearing pants and a white shirt! Add to that simple understanding that he also understands how to pour on the glam and sex without any trace of gimmickry or garishness. 

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For whatever reason, I know he is a master tailor but he is also a master dressmaker as demonstrated in those 2 blue gowns and the 2 pale pink ones as well. I’m not sure I’m right here but I sensed a whisper of the original YSL mindset when it comes to how these clothes are presented with a generous soupรงon of Helmut Newton.
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Yes, he is also a favorite for his ultra-short and sexy rock star pieces but who among the current crop of designers can name the First lady of France as a client along with almost any music superstar. That my friends, takes innate talent. He understands the definition of chic/slick and soignรฉ as well as the meaning of sensual.
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The very last image shown suddenly reminded me of Diana Vreeland in one of her most famous images … it’s almost as if she was reincarnated or conjured for the 21st century in that particular look!

Loewe fall 2020


With all the hoopla and hype that surrounds this brand, I’m asking for a friend:
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 Who wants to look like this? 
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 How tall do you have to be to wear these clothes?
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 Does the designer think about how a woman can wear them?
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How many times and ways can you do the same ugly dress?
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 Lastly, what’s the point?

Wednesday, February 26, 2020

Dries Van Noten fall 2020


Then along comes a designer who designs with a collection that looks like a collection… imagine that!!
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Unquestionably the runway is one that is rife with exquisite pieces rendered in lush and rich looking fabrications. This is not a collection for the faint of heart but it without a doubt a collection for those who truly understand there is a thing called fashion without billboards,  neon  signs,  endless intellectualizing about heinously ugly clothes, sound bytes and  all the bullshit that seems to permeate the business at this time in order to justify a lack of talent.
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Dries is a fabric man which he certainly backs up in this collection but what he also fortifies is that there really are true creatives who design clothes reflecting their vision for their brand based on their instincts and not on some headline or speck of esoterica… you listening meatball?
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The first viewing can be rather jolting but is upon dissection that you find the beauty and the the essence of both the brand and designer. The clothes speak for themselves, there is no further need to ramble on about them... if you understand the business and creative aspects of fashion then the images speak for themselves
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