Thoughts range from the assassination of fashion to the
walking dead of fashion. We have those who only know how to copy each other,
stay on trend and offer variations on someone else’s themes or we have those
who think that anything that can be sewn and put on a runway is fashion. We have
fashion that bears the names of some of the greatest designers of the 20th
century and sadly their reincarnations have not a hint of the great artist who
created them nor what made them great.
We have designers who think that the pedestrian is the end
all do all and we have designers who can’t conjure enough wet dreams to try to
stand out from the pack… in essence we have polar opposites, neither of which
is acceptable. Clothes for the sake of clothes with absolutely no thought
process involved when it comes to their eventual destination which is in most
cases is the markdown rack.
I have termed “design whisperers “who seemingly amount to
yes men who just don’t know squat about fashion and have these ill-conceived
notions that it is all about hype and nothing at all to do with the actual
business of fashion. We have a dilution of a designer’s responsibilities while
we have this job saving all-inclusive title of creative director which tests
the limits of a designer. Designers should be designing with the aim of selling
clothes and marketing people should be supervising advertising, store designers
should be doing just that while designers should be casting their own shows not
casting directors and most of all we have stylists who seem to think it is their
show and their vision on display. Without question these brands are cases of “too
many cooks spoil the stew” since it’s rather farfetched that so many ancillary
people are literally of like mind when in fact I believe each one wants to put
their imprimatur on each collection…. Not to mention the lack of fashion
knowledge that is rampant.
Before fashion became this source of entertainment via the internet highway, shows were reserved for those who had a direct link to the world of fashion/designer
meaning buyers, magazine staff (editors, reviewers etc.), stores, loyal
clientele and prospective clients at every level. The audience dressed for the
occasion and remained decorous and a supporting and supportive cast to what
appeared on the catwalk. Now when attending these so called fashion shows we
are faced with groupies, bloggers, "influencers" who have no clue about fashion history, iPhones,
reviewers who attend pre show press briefings and do nothing more than regurgitate
press releases which have no relevance to the clothes that are shown, this
brings me to the subject that if clothes have to be explained and justified in excruciating
detail, then, well, for the most part they are worthless and usually just plain
ugly. As I have said a million times clothes hang on a rack, no romance cards,
no justifications for their design… just inanimate pieces of cloth on a rail
with a brand name emblazoned above them.
The days of “signatures”...other than heinously ugly have
pretty much disappeared the same way that perpetuating the DNA of a heritage brand
has disappeared; the DNA aspect has been pushed aside in the quest for theoretically
new and modern which usually translates to clothes that are over worked, over
designed, try too hard to be trendy and whose audience is 20 something and can
least afford what is presented.
Whatever happened to the business of fashion? Today, these
brands are far more interested in selling a tube of lipstick, a vial of nail
enamel, a scent or any accessory. The clothes have become nothing more than a bad
and sad punchline in quest of hype and reviews written by those who have the
least knowledge and background and are far more worried about advertising dollars
or swag than they are about fashion.
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