There are several things that you must keep in mind when viewing this collection and first and foremost is that this is not meant for mass distribution or to garner gigantic sales numbers. Vuitton is ultimately in the leather goods business and not in the apparel business. The clothes are the icing on the cake and I’d be willing to bet barely register a blip in the revenue stream. In essence this is not designed or meant to appeal to the fashion masses, Ghesquière sits in the enviable position where all he must do is present collections that garner hype and media attention while offering his seasonal vision for the brand which is most notably used in their print advertising.
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As I have previously said about Vuitton, there is no archive, there is no look there is no distinct signature other than their iconic logo which all adds up to anything goes and remember this has limited distribution at best.
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In an ode to NYC, it seemed fitting that the newly restored TWA terminal by Aero Saarrinen was the setting ... if you need to know he was then think this way, he was the Zaha Hadid of his era. The clothes shown were a bit futuristic, precise and architectural. In an almost impossible setting to show a collection, the parade of models walked a dizzying maze of a runway that must have needed the likes os a Vasco de Gama plot its course.
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The collection is not for kids, there is a feeling that the clothes emit a much more couture like feeling with lots of innovation but sadly they needed to be dialed down a notch or two as we were headed to visual overload. I wasn’t really sure why he chose to use the Thierry Mugler skull cap from his “bug” collection and I certainly believe that the show styled differently would have cast a totally different mood on the collection. I didn’t understand the rolled hair of the 40s and maybe that’s all exactly the point.
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Ghesquière ran the gamut from boxy Bermuda’s to high waisted pleated pants to pouf skirts of the 80s to his version of a sarong skirt to stirrup pants. Oh the luxury of freedom! There was a capelet thing going on or maybe it was a sci fi Super girl thing, I’m not sure but in some cases it worked and in some not so much.
All of my blather really boils down to is this is a collection that cannot be compared to others and that in its dissection there were some spectacular pieces and some hopefully very forgettable pieces. The finish looked perfect and if the truth be known my favorite pieces were all the pinstripes which were over shadowed by all the glitz, gimmick and glamor of their counterparts.
Again, this is not aimed at mass appeal and if I had to hazard a guess the Asian market will have a field day with it. Will it play in LA, Paris or NYC or Miami… I’d say there are pieces that will but not as a collection.
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