You say potato I say potahto... let’s call the whole thing off! Sound familiar?? Another familiar aphorism ... beauty is in the eye of the beholder and well this beholder was not all that impressed or convinced of the words used by Glenn Martens, the guest designer (Y Project) and the author of the review on the Vogue site.click image to enlarge
Where he saw the original DNA of the brand ... I saw references to Iris van Herpen, the Japanese, dare I say Valentino and Margiela among others and oh yes there was the hip fixation but in couture it was tongue in cheek and in rtw it was dead serious. Let me be the first one to point out that when JPG did couture it was wildly chic, urbane and wildly creative and totally him. So here, the jumping off point is not as true to couture as Martens decided to use the codes of RTW as opposed to the codes of the Haute Couture. He might have taken note that the “tattoo” fabric was not meant to drape but to be second skin hence the name!click image to enlarge
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It bothers me tremendously that now designers basically write their own reviews and the supposed critics have become secretaries or just plain regurgitators of the designer’s words ... simply said ... the writers/reviewers bring nothing to the table except a keyboard and the designers all want to make themselves out to be the greatest thing since thread who have assembled genius groundbreaking collections that are supposed to be seen as such! Guess what ... it aint, they aint and they will never be brilliant except in their own minds and on the pages written by the fawners and wannabes who pretend to know what they are talking about. The problem being most are not well versed enough to be critics and so it’s far easier to let the designers do the” talking!”click image to enlarge
I would suggest the Mr. Martens try to calculate likes/clicks to the amount of couture the brand will sell and to the audience who is clicking and liking said collection!click image to enlarge
Lastly, I’d like to point out to designers, readers and reviewers that couture was never meant to be a democratic pursuit ... it is supported by maybe 1% of the world’s population who can afford to buy 4, 5 and 6 figure garments made to measure, so all this bull about appealing to a larger audience is exactly that .. bull! Oh, and rarely do these brands ever break out the numbers of just how much they do sell.