AMA PURE .. MADE IN iTALY!

 Anyone who knows me knows that there are few things I love more than a scarf wrapped around my neck almost all year long, anyplace I go, even to the supermarket. Of course, some of the most treasured are those of tissue thin cashmere which happen to be the warmest as well as the softest so it is no surprise that I shine the spotlight on AMA PURE!

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Another reason for my attraction to the brand is that I was a print designer for 7 years which was my first job in the fashion business and have ever since been fascinated with patterns of every kind. When the patternings appear on luxurious cashmere, suddenly all of my senses are heightened in the best possible way and so once again the attraction to AMA PURE seems to be a slam dunk and a natural connection.

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From a fashion standpoint I can wholeheartedly say  that Italians understand the importance of accessories (part of their sprezzatura)  almost as much as the French but it is the Italians who especially understand the potency of the scarf on  both men and women and that is a key factor here as you  will see in the images. The gentleman in the images is Gian Marco Tavani (CEO)…. The son! And he makes quite an impact by showing us that … “real men” do wear scarves…. so, to speak and at the risk of being a bit cliché in my words.

The last of my blather is that these scarves come at a price but there are few items in one’s wardrobe that will never go out of style, have multiple uses and be can be worn in any number of ways… timeless and classic regardless of the pattern.  So enough of my words… here is Luciana Fazio in her words speaking about her pride and joy….

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Can you give us a brief history about how the company began and who is your target customer?

Luciana Fazio: AMA was a private label company when Rosa (my mother) started working with textile machines at home in Carpi. I was 7 years old and I was watching her and learning from her every day. When I was 18 years old I left Italy and I went studying English in London for almost 2 years. When I came back the Italian handcraft knitted industry was extremely requested and we produced for 20 years worldwide important labels.

Once my son Gian Marco Tavani joined the Family Business he was willing to create something unique and pure qualitative products that he couldn’t find in fashion multi-brand stores  … as I worked all my life for big quantities, he touched my feeling of quality in front of quantity . So we created AMA PURE, a brand which creates with love and passion, a lot of know-how, each piece made one by one and so extremely unique.

Our goal is create with the top fibres of cashmere timeless accessories that everybody can understand just from the first touch, but few of them can afford it.

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Can you describe the process from the time you select a design to the finished product and how do you decide on each pattern?

LF: The design comes from an inspiration or a desire I feel needed, I always look for timeless design and my inspiration comes from nature, animals, arts and travels.

I’m Italian and our brand is a hand made in Italy product so I always try to add a touch of our Italian exclusive tradition. A design could take some weeks and sometimes only few days it depends … I like to leave them breathe and see how it evolves. Once the design is finalised I start doing some trials and it could take several times before the colours match perfectly my design. Let’s say from the creation to the first prototype it takes a couple of months.

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Since the company began in Carpi and not Milan, did you find it difficult to get your product into the market place? Who are some of your accounts worldwide and do you sell direct to customer online?

LF: Our Company is based in Carpi (Modena), 160km from Milan, because this city is the HUB of the knitwear manufacturer in Italy, and here is where I was born. The most difficult thing is not arrive in Milan but find the right market place there. At the moment we have a temporary showroom in Paris during the fashion weeks (FOUR MARKETING) a permanent showroom in Milan (VICE VERSA) and a permanent showroom in U.S.A. (TRANSATLANTIC). Some of our Worldwide accounts are SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, HARVEY NICHOLS UK, LANE CRAWFORD, RINASCENTE. From September 2020 we will start seling directly some of our products on our new website (www.ama-pure.com) don’t hesitate to follow us on instagram (@ama_pure) in order to be ready with our upcoming updates !

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If you could choose any collaboration who or what would it be and why?

LF: We do collaboration with other brands , in general it starts from a common idea seeing from two opposite point of view and in general we realised it with our quality and they add their style or their fit to our cashmere quality . We did collaboration or customisation with stores too, like for example with one of our top store in Saint Barth (VOILA SAINT BARTH), we like to create things together adding a Caribbean classy touch to our Italian textile quality .

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Do you plan on expanding into other areas and are you content staying within this particular category and why? Expansion plans?

LF: We do actually have several products, ponchos, capes and an entire home textile collection with duvets, plaids, slippers and travel kits. We like to stay inside the top accessories department for the moment and be known and appreciated from our customers for the quality of our hand made in Italy products.We would to be known for the timeless touch of our products . We like to be exclusive even in the distribution and do few type of products but at the top quality worldwide level. Maybe one day, my son would like to expand the category and create his first cashmere collection ! 

 

WATCH OUT !! the MANDRAWN interview

www.mandrawn.com/watch-interview-jeffrey-felner
 OR
read it here:

Ricky Wolbrom

This is an instance that combines a skill and a craft that dates back centuries and infuses precision workmanship into what some will call fashion or collectible accessories. Enter Ricky Wolbrom who had an epiphany and turned it into a thriving business. Though the name (watch-cufflinks) is seemingly self-explanatory, it is so much more than just cufflinks built from watch parts and mechanisms. By the way check out the website and see that they are much more than just cufflinks and not just for men.

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Some of you will be familiar with the brands that are repurposed or reimagined in their current state and for those who are unfamiliar; these names are the ultimate in horology and timekeeping.  Watches from many of these brands range in the thousands of dollars and some might even surpass tens of thousands, so if you are an aspiring collector or even a seasoned collector of timepieces Watch-Cufflinks (don’t forget the hyphen) might just be what will appeal to you. Having always been fascinated by watches, this was a company that piqued my interest especially in the fact that many pieces are constructed and built in the same manner as the timepieces they echo and in some respects the same way as the original Miriam Haskell jewelry. The owner (Ricky Wolbrom) and creative director, Daniel Baker, speak to an audience of collectors and fashion fold folk who appreciate the art and craft of fashion, as well as those who might collect pieces that echo the very brands they own or aspire to; names such as Rolex, Omega. IWC, Breguet, Girard Perregaux, Bulova, Elgin and more. 

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Jeffrey Felner: Can you give us some brief history as to how this business came about and some of your background?

Ricky Wolbrom: With my family originating from Belgium, Switzerland, Israel and Central Europe, I'd been exposed to the gold and diamond business from an early age, maybe it’s genetic! I originally began in the jewelry business back in the 80's as a goldsmith apprentice here in New York City, and then I went on to get my GIA Certification in Gemology. Prior to actually making jewelry, I found myself working at a prominent newspaper in New York where I rose to the VP of Advertising and Marketing and was successful at both expanding the newspaper and substantially increasing the paper's revenue. After this rather corporate endeavor, I wanted an outlet for my creative tendencies; I always had a passion for textiles and fiber arts, so I spent time learning different ways to create jewelry from various high end novelty yarns. Eventually I began to experiment with assembling metal jewelry. I found that vintage watch parts lend themselves extremely well to the look I was trying to achieve, a hybrid of something new created from something old. Being strongly attracted to the ideas of recycling and up-cycling, giving new life to watch movements that would normally be cast aside, thrown away and forgotten intrigued me. It is an honor to pay homage to the brilliant and skilled craftsmanship of vintage watch movements. The master artisans of yesteryear hand created these intricate and fascinating little worlds of synchronicity and artistic beauty. Re-purposing them and utilizing these mini landscapes of art to create a new life in captivating and relevant jewelry gives me tremendous pleasure. 

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JF: Do you see any brand extensions in the future or expanding your retail network? What would be the ideal situation for both?

RW: There is a definite desire to expand both the line and distribution. For one, there is room to incorporate more precious metals as well as semi-precious and precious gemstones to create genuine luxury pieces. There already exists a high end clientele to support this, and I believe this adds another layer of legitimacy to our hand-crafted, one-of-a-kind pieces. I also envisage collaging vintage jewelry, either wholly or in part, to create unique signature statement pieces. We have already dabbled in this area with excellent results, and can imagine an entire line that makes use of genuine vintage jewelry from the deco era through the 60's. As for avenues of distribution, we have not considered designing for other brands, but instead we have looked to place ourselves in the types of shops and boutiques that cater to our niche market, such as jewelry stores, especially those that focus on luxury watches.  Elite and luxury tourist destinations throughout Europe, Asia and the Middle East seem to be a natural attraction for us

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JF:  If you could select any collaboration at all, what it would be and why?

RW: Well, to be clear, I already have a collaborator/ partner who is a highly skilled designer and jeweler. We have a highly motivational dynamic that pushes the limits of our skills and I owe much to this partnership. As for another collaboration, to be honest, this could be you, Jeffrey. Knowing your history in the fashion and jewelry making industry, your expertise and skilled eye could be priceless, from your business acumen right down to design. Who knows, perhaps there would be room to grow into an expanded line of accessories, home decor, textiles, etc.  In the end, any collaboration would have to ultimately be about advancing the art. Success and profits are not to be derided, but the most satisfying thing about the work is creating something that genuinely brings pride. I could not have the former at the expense of the latter. 

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JF:  Can you profile your clients and tell us “who” they are and what you perceive as the attraction to your product?

RW: Our clients are vast and diverse. We have shipped to almost every conceivable destination in the world. We sell to everyday people as well as a deep roster of exclusive buyers, executive VIP's, celebrities, musicians and even royalty. We have even been commissioned to produce bespoke pieces for clients as well as for movie houses, prop and wardrobe managers, photographers… even a record label and luxury liquor company. We also do well with corporate gifting companies and "in-flight" magazines...
I believe there are many reasons people are attracted to our product. First, there are the devoted horological aficionados whose kryptonite is anything and everything that has to do with timekeeping. Our audience also includes those who love our jewelry just because of its esthetics; being different from virtually any other style of jewelry they might know since many may have never seen the inner workings of a watch before. This, I believe, enables our jewelry to transcend a singular categorization. 

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JF: Can you sort of run us through the process in terms of manufacture, etc., so that we have an idea of what goes into the making of your pieces?

RW: It seems that everyone has their own process. For me, I scan through supplies and as I internalize each piece, I can visualize combinations with other components. I then might gather together many different supplies from various ideas I have in my head and begin to lay them out together, trying two or three elements together and seeing if things "click". My partner is a highly visual person and can often picture a finished piece without picking up a single component. Regardless of the method, once the design is finalized, each piece is stripped of parts that may be excess or unnecessary, sharp edges are filed down and buffed, and metal surfaces to be joined are cleaned and abraded. Then all metal pieces are torch soldered - walking the fine line between reaching the temperature required for solder flow, while taking extreme caution not to burn the delicate surfaces and parts present on various watch movements. Depending on whether a grungy or gleaming finish is desired, the pieces will be lightly or thoroughly washed and then non-soldered elements may be added, such as crystals, gemstones, etc. Assuming that all the planets are in alignment, a finished product has been born and if we are lucky … a work of art has been created.

www.watch-cufflinks.com

meet the team of On Aura Tout Vu.. bonjour et bienvenue

On Aura Tout Vu translates to "You will see Everything" and by god yes you do!

 

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The subject/subjects (Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov) of this interview reinforce the idea that yes; fashion is indeed an art form. On Aura Tout Vu is without question not only art but it might be the result of mad scientists in search of immortality. What these 2 designers create is nothing short of astounding, breathtaking, thought provoking and in many ways flummoxing. When some of their pieces parade down a runway or appear on a red carpet or as wardrobe for a theatrical event, one must really wonder how it was done and who on earth could possibly imagine them and then produce such incredible pieces. One might say that Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov have created this idea that when it comes to fashion, accessories and for that matter any classification of fashion, there isn’t anything that isn’t possible. Trite as it sounds, they are quite literally of the school “if you can dream it, you can achieve it.”

 

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“I think On Aura Tout Vu personifies Red Carpet glamour. I have worn them since 1999 and they certainly were making head turning avant garde pieces then and now the world has caught to what designers in Paris have known for 20 years … pay attention to what this team does! This is why the super stars are all lining up to wear On Aura Tout Vu.” Christine Suppes. Author of Electric Fashion and fashion arbiter and blogger extraordinaire

 

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What becomes blatantly apparent to the more seasoned viewer is that On Aura Tout Vu is the ultimate pairing of the old and the new; they combine the oldest methods and tenets of the haute couture and combine them with the latest 21^st century technology to create masterpieces worthy of any connoisseur of fashion or museum for that matter. One might say they are not real clothes but really costumes or prototypes. While only part of that is true, what they manage to do is accomplish is literally modern fashion in the truest sense of the word. These are clothes that satisfy the fashion hunger of only those who have the most acute and individual sense of style. One might say that their pieces are felt and designed from a visceral point of viewpoint; these are clothes that are emotional and come from within not just what you see on the surface.

 

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So now in their own words you can meet the two wunderkinds of 21^st century fashion:

Jeffrey Felner: You do so many classifications from couture to costumes to all sorts of accessories; is your vision unified or does each classification come with its own set of “rules.”

Livia and Yassen: Yes we can say that on aura tout vu brand is multi-cultural brand. Our way of working is completely different when we develop couture, accessories and art projects (costumes and stage design).  Rules that regulate On Aura Tout Vu creative process is to have innovative experiences in technologie, handcrafting and experimental materials. We always worry about what is the message that we want to transmit.

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JF: What was your favorite collaboration and who would you like to work with and why?

L&Y: When we start our company we first collaborate with the most established brands in that period like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, which was our favorite collaboration, as well as Alexander McQueen but also Paco Rabanne, Nina Ricci, John Galliano  and many others. This multiple collaborations taught us a lot and permit us to develop our creativity and stay open for other universes.

We enjoy working with the unique and sytron univers, the photographers, choreographers, painters, artistes as Madonna, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Florence Foresti, Ivana Wong and many others… In cinema our collaboration with James Ivory’s film Le Divorce with Glen Close; Also Ballet such as Nutcracker and Carmina Burana . In near future we would love developing collaborations with Luc Besson or Tim Burton.

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JF: If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

L&Y: Well it will be a dinner that make appointment between past and future so: Albert Einstein, Thomas Edison, Leonardo da Vinci, Mark Zuckerberg, Marilyn Monroe, Alexander McQueen, Salvador Dali, Beyoncé, Paul Eluard, Hillary Clinton, Madonna and we will ask Tim Burton to join us. We think will be a great group for dinner in a small castle in the French countryside with recommendations of Salvador Dali’s menu and lobsters.

 

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JF: How do you envision the brand within the next 5 years? Brand extensions? Distribution channels?

L&Y: The brand development will include different aspects of our creativity .We would love open to public in future a store that we can spend time and have cultural approach not only spend money. Web distribution is the future and custom service is what will be with the couture twist. We would continue to develop this way of working.

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JF: Can you speak to the power of the internet and social media as a device for building your business? On line sales? Or just brand recognition? Where do you see your strengths in this arena and what is your plan?

L&Y: In the beginning of internet our darling friend Christine Suppes who at that time was launching Fashionlines which was one of the first online magazines and was pushing us to do it better and better. So this was our first approach was coming from USA. We build our magazines and different web platforms with which we can express in a free way the spirit of the brand.

What is so important is to stay as you are honest about what you do in your creativity. Not to try to imitate strategies for internet.

This permit to On Aura Tout Vu to be followed and to developed business better.

We strongly believe that any brand should not lose his DNA.

 

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Stay who you are!!!