ABOUT REVIEWING

When writing a review the mindset is to be as objective as possible and not make it personal but of course every review involves some personal likes or dislikes unless of course you write for Vogue.com and then you just regurgitate designer’s press releases or ooze about ugly clothes because the brands keep you on their payroll.

art by Tim Otte click image to enlarge

 Reviews are meant to evoke, provoke, evaluate and explain the visuals. The most prevalent reaction and observation is that most people DON’T READ…. They look at pictures like they are in the third grade and then they make comments strictly based on their personal likes or dislikes. Yes of course that personal part enters the conversation but that should not be the sole reason a collection is deemed ugly or beautiful. The clothes need to be put into context such as what do you think they might look like hanging in a store or who is going to wear it, no matter the price, and then lastly you must take into account that these clothes are not the under $100 category.. More like in the $1000s category.

art by Marc Antoine Coulon  click image to enlarge

 Another aspect of or mindset of writing reviews or evaluations of a collection involves what the brand might stand for … what is there signature look, who is their customer and lastly if a designer is holding the reins for a heritage brand do they even know what that brand stood for. Anyone who “reads me”, and I know there are many who read my beads so to speak, knows that I am stickler for a brand’s DNA, Houses such as Saint Laurent, Ungaro, Balenciaga, Dior, Versace, Givenchy, Balmain, Chloe, just to name a few have long legendary past with vast archives of what made them fashion icons and yet new designers are allowed to come in and absolutely obliterate what these names once represented; let’s call them the brand assassins. I cannot solely blame them since they have accomplices which would be upper management who are only interested in chasing the dollar via hype and in many cases far more interested in selling shoes and nail polish rather than selling clothes and perpetuating a brand’s DNA. This mentality has cast a pall over the industry and reflects in a lot of wildly expensive unattractive and unwearable clothes for an unknown audience.

art by Marc Antoine Coulon  click image to enlarge

 Lastly, you might consider the source of the comments or the commentary; in my 40 plus years in the business of fashion and I stress BUSINESS, I have been buyer, seller, retail, wholesale, clothing designer, jewelry designer, home accessories designer, clock designer, textile designer fashion book reviewer and more than I care to mention so my perspective is broader than most and my opinions while seeming old fashion always come back to the same common thread…. Women buy clothes to look beautiful and to impress other women and lastly they dress for men … the last aspect was once blatantly explained to me by a mentor like this …. Women who spend $1000s on clothes want to get laid! And that said by a woman who was a pioneer and genius in the business of fashion.

Lastly we no longer have critics like Bernadine Morris or Hebe Dorsey or editors like Diana Vreeland and John Fairchild all of which told you what they saw in the context of the business of fashion. The advertising dollar was always an issue but truth, or at least as they perceived it, was more important as was actually talking about the clothes not the venue, not the audience and certainly not the regurgitation of press releases. Some of us have seen the demise of fashion reportage via every means possible from newspapers to magazines to even online... it is sad to see something that you love slowly wither away due to popular demand or the whim of the times and the almighty dollar.

I don’t pretend to be the smartest one in the room but I have issues with those who think they know what they are just because they have a keyboard of some kind to express themselves, wear clothes or own a phone camera to show they went to a show and need to prove it. I just wish people would think before they comment and realize that your keyboard is not a license to offer pronouncements on what you believe to be the last word on fashion … read more .. Learn more... ask more... be knowledgeable... Don’t be a sheep and speak intelligently or at least try!

Fashion as Art... The Illustrators

This series of posts can only be described as a runaway train!  The enthusiasm of these artists/illustrators coupled with their respective bodies of work have forced me to extend the topic beyond a single posting.  My aim is to educate, enlighten and excite the reader.  Every reader should be keenly aware of all of these talents and what they offer when it comes to fashion landscape.  Each day another approach will be taken in order to offer the broadest of views with regard to what we commoners refer to so simply as “fashion illustration.”  I am very excited about the series as well as flattered and awed by the overwhelming acceptance and grace that was offered during the “collecting” process.

Having grown up in a time when newspapers were in black and white and most fashion advertising in them was done via illustration rather than photo, illustrators have always captured my imagination.  It is of constant amazement and I stand in awe of those who are so ably and abundantly talented to convey a particular vision of fashion by using one’s signature technique and talents.

This feeling, combined with just having read and reviewed Tony Glenville’s marvelous volume on fashion illustration, spurred or reignited my interest in the subject.  Mr. Glenville was kind enough to contribute a quote for this article which pretty must speaks for itself and everyone who appreciates the art form...

I guess the thing is.....How wonderful to see a craft which was written off by many, in the 60's and 70's especially, now enjoying a renaissance. The joy of seeing classic and modern techniques; often combined, an extraordinary range of styles and attitudes demonstrating the magic of line and shadow in fashion illustration in the 21st century. Fashion Illustration still has the ability to enchant and delight.

With this in mind,  it occurred to me that there are so many wildly talented people out there who may not have not have been given  proper recognition or who might be “working” yet remain unknown to so many and so I have culled my “friendships” and come up with a glittering  roster of talent for your viewing pleasure.  The common thread I employed here is how these artists see icons, luminaries or legends of fashion.

Every one of these brilliantly talented artists can be found on their respective websites and every one of them can accomplish the impossible utilizing their well-honed skills of illustration.  The employed mediums are varied and the overall final products are stunning and arresting in their own individual ways.

I have also taken the liberty of pointing out some of the greatest and legendary of illustrators who have either left us their legacies or have moved on to other creative endeavors or mediums.  Each one of them had a recognizable signature and technique that revolutionized the world of fashion and advertising.

This article will be presented in several segments as so many of these prolific artists have offered me their archive and I would be foolish not to share it with everyone; stay tuned for the next couple of days and hopefully  I can open you’re your eyes to the talented artists and their talents!

Contributors include: Marc Antoine Coulon, Mel Odom, Richard Haines, Dan Romer, Joel Woodard, Mitja Bokum, Chuck Nitzberg, Marco Santaniello, Tim Otte, Gladys Perint Palmer, Maurizio Andreuccetti,  Paul B. Elsen, Sue Tait Porcaro, Glen Hanson, Jaff Noel Seijas, Leland Neff, George Stavrinos, Rene Gruau, Antonio Lopez, Michael Vollbracht, Mats Gustafson, Kenneth Paul Block, Joe Eula, J.C. Leyendecker, Tony Viramontes and Barbara Pearlman.

***** New Icons of Fashion Illustration by Tony Glenville.. April 2013