Christian Dior. by Raf Simons . pfw ..fall 2015

As a change of pace for this review, we will revert back to a format that has always been popular with my readers and that is as a letter to the designer. So without any further explanation, here we go….

Dear Raffie…. 

Just finished seeing the latest collection and what can I say... you did it again!! What on earth are you thinking to turn this amazingly legendary house and brand into some silly vapid contemporary dress collection, yes, yes I know you have all this esoteric inspiration and all these high minded reasons for what you did this but hell kiddo .. What a mess you made! It looks like Emma Peel, Biba and all of Carnaby Street wrapped up into one tidy package. 

The big problem is this Raffie... and that is there is such a thing as de trop and boy you maxed out big time. Yes, there are fine art inspirations and I’m sure even reasons for sexy school girl box pleats and car wash skirts but no matter what they may be but in the end the result is the same … the clothes are just fugly! Yes fugly! So, I really need to ask you if you have ever spoken to a woman or ever watched her buy shoes as to how many pairs of thigh high patents do you think will sell to anyone who might want to wear them. Everything you do is just complicated and so seemingly detached from the reality of the business like... duh... ya gotta sell this stuff or else you don’t get to flex your tongue and show  everyone how deep and introspective you are.

Well, it is amazing to me that Bernie hasn’t shown you the door yet but clearly he is a believer  in that there is no such thing as bad press as you generate a lot of ink but mostly of the negative variety. I stand corrected, not the blah blahs and the fawners who will regurgitate your deepest innermost thoughts and never speak of the clothes. When this party is over, you will be forgotten faster than those who can’t recall what they ate for lunch 2 days ago and with as much regret. Pauvre Raffie... the delusional world you live in!

Bisous to you and love to all … me!

PS ... what’s with the Nike swoosh, the fur dresses, the extremely high water pant lengths and all that “gathering” to one side??

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz Paris fall 2015

The question that must be asked here is this... “Is there such a concept as too much of a good thing?”

The reason I ask this is that Alber Elbaz has surely employed the tassel and fringe as 2 of his major design flourishes for Fall 2015. What starts out as a nice touch suddenly becomes there are tassels and fringe on everything and everywhere which is certainly a bit over the top. It brings to mind that famous Chanel quote about... before you leave the house, look in the mirror and remove one accessory ...well here he might have looked and removed a  few items not just one.

The collection bounces from pristine Lanvin where it is chic and slick and cosmopolitan to Boho/Berber/Bedouin, then back and then B-B-B again. Besides being confusing, it looks like Alber either can’t decide who his customer is or that he is trying to be all things to all women. For me, it is the sharper narrower silhouette that resonates when completed with the Beene leather one shoulder harness that exemplifies the Elbaz message at Lanvin… at least that’s the way his tenure started!

The opening set of exits seemed to be very matador inspired without being overdone and in keeping with the origins of the brand as per Elbaz and then the “devolvement” began. Suddenly he sends out all these odd pieces piled on mixed with these over decorated ones to achieve or end up with this folkloric kind of look which brought to mind... what she couldn’t wear she carried. Then we swing back to cosmopolitan chic and ended with dressy frumpy dresses which conjured some kind of thrift store chic. 

Where is the chic that was once Lanvin in the first few years before this odd mindset took hold? It is no wonder there are rumors of its sale and lagging quality.

Elbaz should surely know better to stick to his guns and carry on with a more singular vision for the brand as right now it is a souk of design and not all of it good.

PS.. note to Blah Blah .. if this is the best then I never want to see the worst

Balmain by Olivier Rousteing Fall 2015

What needs to be said first is that the most unfortunate part here is that Olivier Rousteing and Balmain will forever be inextricably linked to KK in my mind and that diminishes their achievements.

Well it was a feast for the eyes or maybe a visual extravaganza but most importantly it was all about fashion and how a young man redefined and reimagined a house/brand and did it successfully. What intrigues me most about Rousteing is that he has this very modern sense of glamour that is deeply rooted in the past or history of fashion. He successfully channels what was into what is and that alone is a HUGE talent. He is talented beyond his years and hope that he can continue on this path which will lead to a very long and glorious future.

Okay now collection time ...  pleating, wrapping/draping, color blocking and tailoring are all in place. His fringe signature is played out to amazing lengths including one helluva fringed jacket. The multi colors are extravagantly lush as well as are the solid pieces. The “little” ruffled skirt is predominant whether in skirt or dress as is his signature “bandaging.” I think the message is clear that Rousteing has built on top of what he started and consequently delivers amazingly strong collections because of it. He has a look …. He has a signature ... the clothes are distinctly his and recognizable!

As for his sex appeal, I think depending on whom you ask, the reply would be quite different. To me, they are sexy and overtly hot, much in the fashion that Ungaro of the 80’s delivered that quality. What gets messy is those lace pieces which look too Fredericks of Hollywood and not enough tasteful. His prints are nothing to write home about but he manages to offer an alternative to the hot to trot pieces. While on the topic of possible deficits, there is always that overriding image of KK wearing any of it making it look as cheap as free lunch or a wardrobe for those girls who sell love by the hour!

In the end, Balmain is an acquired taste and make no mistake this is not a collection for those who wish to blend in but it is a collection that stands out in  a sea of sameness and applauds a designer who designs and doesn’t espouse. Or ... in other words the clothes speak for themselves!

Vionnet fall 2015 Paris Collections

And I quote... Madeleine Vionnet was called the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for popularizing the bias cut within the fashion world and is credited with inspiring a number of recent designers.

Let me say this about that! The great legacy that is Madeleine Vionnet is not what I call honored in the present day collections from this fabled and legendary brand. Let’s say that Madame/Мисс. Goga has built a house on hubris rather than DNA or vocabulary. One must postulate that the name Goga Ashkenazi doesn’t exactly inspire awe, reverence or any attention at all and well… with good reason, even with a team of 5.

In a collection that bears little to no relation to the once legendary house, Fall 2015 is a collection that apparently is designed by committee and worse than that looks it! From S&M like harnesses to furry slippers and slides... again... to gladiator like knee highs still to ill fitting leather pants and silly bulbous out of place sweaters ... well, this collection has it all!! The question is why. Oh yeah and the ridiculous wheelies ... why?

What needs to be done here is that someone needs to make this collection fit together, if that’s possible, and unite all the disparate elements that are being presented. Right now it looks like everybody got 5 or 6 looks to design and their job was done. Nothing coalesces, nothing or very little has any elegance or polish and what it all proves is money  cannot make you a designer or give you the knowledge necessary to present a meaningful collection. Some well-placed magazine ads may provide an aura surrounding the brand but it surely provides no substance here.

And by the way ... ditch the “Adrian” hood as it is just ludicrous at this point and gives the clothes a retro moment that is hardly anything other than dramatic. In fact, is that’s the take away, then “Houston… we have a problem!” why bother with the pretense of a name if what you really design is Goga … a collection that money can buy!

Go back and re-read the intro … as right now we have Project Runway ... the Goga Edition