Friday, September 22, 2017

Versace MFW spring 2018



The Time Machine is a science fiction novel by H. G. Wells, published in 1895 and written as a frame narrative. The work is generally credited with the popularization of the concept of time travel by using a vehicle that allows an operator to travel purposely and selectively forwards or backwards in time. The term "time machine", coined by Wells, is now almost universally used to refer to such a vehicle.
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Unequivocally this was THE collection dedicated to her late brother Gianni and unequivocally this was maybe the most wonderful collection and maybe the savviest thing that she could have done at a time when fashion really needs to be reminded of those who made it theater and those who actually designed what today’s designers merely copy. We went back to the 80s when Gianni and Ratti teamed up for what became a literally groundbreaking moment in fashion. 
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So much of what you saw was rehash with minor, if any tweaking, but who cares? This is unabashed unapologetic 1000% who the designer and the brand was ... sexy, tough, tailored, hot, over the top and designed by a designer!! His style, his way and let’s say that even the pieces that were filtered in under Donatellamamamia’s hand looked mighty good when put in context of the brands DNA.
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If the woman was really brilliant this would be the time for her to say adios and go out with a bang instead of a whimper but that’s doubtful. What is most intriguing is how when you  see these clothes some 30 odd years later and given the direction that fashion has taken.. These clothes still rock which is hard to believe that we would ever say they are classics.
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At any rate this was rock em sock em hit em in the face Versace at its most glorious
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Etro MFW spring 2017



It is again one of those glorious moments when a brand seemingly goes off on some unrelated tangent but then you realize it remains in its comfort zone as well as speaks in its own particular language with its own vocabulary
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Etro has never been a brand you associate with white… very white … blizzard like white and yet that is exactly how this eye popping presentation began. Again it is massaging the DNA and evolving and just doing what you do. 
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Just when you think they had given those madder prints, about half way through the collection takes a right and goes directly to Raj! The glorious richness and luxe that they are famous for... the silhouettes speak to the mood and colorations just dazzle as do the prints and fabrications. The accessories as over the top as appropriate. 
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No, this is not about appealing to everyone but hell, give me this kind of narrow appeal against the supposedly earth shattering appeal of a Gucci’ in my opinion  Etro makes Gucci look like what it is... a less than talented designer’s harping on the same theme season after season after season .. now it is officially beating that dead horse into submission.
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Brava Etro!

Giorgo Armani MFW spring 2018



My initial impression is that this is Armani soft, Armani flou and at times Annie Hall 2018. As a whole, the star attraction is the jacket. This is an atypical Armani that is print laden, colorful and seemingly more Parisian than Milanese.
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Not my most favorite collection but within this massive cavalcade of exits were some genuinely exquisite Armani pieces that will never go out of style and yes actually speak to the DNA of the brand. It is a tough collection to see as a whole given a sort of more is better kind of vibe rather than the usual more minimally executed looks. The overall mood is soft, on the boxy side but tailored nonetheless. The dresses are a bit trickier in look and design. This is a collection for dissection.
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It is interesting to note that even the accessories are amped up... The shoes in particular which usually are not even notable but here they are front and center. also that the skirt is crucial to the collection.
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When you place Armani in this circus of fashion, his stature rises to god like adoration given what passes for fashion today i.e. Gucci and Moschino. In my eyes they are sad excuses for what constitutes a business that is in dire need of talent and not visual jokes and not rehashed looks that should have been left to never be revisited. Armani is one of the consistently evolving brands in fashion today; he is unapologetic even when he might stumble a bit as he has been known to in the past.
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Love it … no! Hate it … no! At least it is not a flat out hate or dismiss as so many have been the past weeks.

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Gucci MFW Spring 2018



Come one come all to the greatest show on earth.... GUCCI has arrived with more than just 3 rings! 
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I’m talking about the Gucci circus of fashion.
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Every thrift store around the world thanks you for the best years they have had in years.
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This season it is Farah Fawcett meets Battlestar Gallactica meets nerd meets an acid trip to the Far East meets Alice Cramden meets Ungaro meets Agnes Gooch. This is just fodder for the fawning media and fashion victims around the world. Sadly too many designers think ad have latched onto this sort of insanity as an answer to what constitutes fashion.
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For me this is living proof that you can indeed fool a lot of people a lot of time. In plain English this is the fraud of fashion; hype trying to normalize Halloween as a way to look each day. 
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If that’s on your menu then have at it. I’ll stick around for something that actually has some merit.
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Welcome to ad dollars rule the roost! The new reality! Oh yeah.. it all stuck to the wall!