Bottega Veneta prefall 2019

While consulting VOGUE .com in search of Tomas Maier’s replacement, I came across this quote from the new designer … “I think there’s a need for a return to elegance and sophistication. “ Daniel Lee, former assistant to Phoebe Philo of Celine fame.

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So my question is simple … whose collection was he speaking of or possibly he needs to define what elegance and sophistication means in his vocabulary AS THESE CLOTHES RELFECT NEITHER.

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Maier was a love hate affair when some seasons were just exquisitely beautiful and others not so much but they always reflected a certain refinement and precision that he infused and coupled with the brand. Here I see a whole lot of “meh” clothes with “geta” like sandals and yes prefall wouldn’t be complete with a straw bag from a fabled heritage brand known for their leathers and intricate leather work.

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I say the system is broken and the so called fashion media needs to call out these designers as basically being full of shit and I might as well say it  … talentless or clueless when it comes to reimagining these heritage brands.

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This is a stunning example of what can go astray…..  The future will be more than interesting to see… as for the men’s collection, I guess Mr. Lee has no idea how expensive these clothes are for those who wish to emulate his homies!

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the shame that is DIOR prefall 2019

I think she's got it!

By George, she's got it!

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Mamamiamariameatball has finally gone and done it in its totality! Dior now looks like a tired Ellen Tracy or maybe a weak Dana Buchman.

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She has transformed this incredibly prestigious heritage brand into a collection of jejune, banal, pedestrian,  common look alike clothes that were worn decades ago.

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I’m guessing this is their genius’s interpretation of commercial and what a pathetic showing this is for a brand of this stature… actually it looks more like Michael Kors than Michael Kors and even he has moved on from this 70’s kind of “Saturday’s Generation” kind of look.

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Can no one see that this woman has never had an original thought when it comes to reimagining Dior in her image which is now almost laughable if not pathetic? I’m sure there is blah blah blah to go with all this stuff that just reeks of thrift stores except for maybe 5 or 6 pieces which are barely about commercial. The shoes are old Vivier which might or might not have come from the Dior archive but c’mon who wants to look like a rehash combination of Annie Hall and Love Story for 1000s of dollars?

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Tired, humdrum, monotonous, numbing, wearisome come to mind and let us not  forget that she of course added her transparent gowns over turtleneck sweaters this season as a fashion statement and now what could be more chic that than that …… they should be ashamed .. She should hide her head. She has brought nothing to the table since her reign began other than some of the ugliest clothes ever produced with that label.

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Maybe since she has no clue about Dior she is going after the old Chloé and Celine customer!

Proenza Schouler & Prabal Gurung prefall 2019

So the boys of Proenza Schouler bought back their company or shall I say someone did... and from the looks of it they will have a long wait for the ROI. Once again these clothes say nothing other than androgyny to a certain point and a lot of been there done that... and Zara. They obviously haven’t learned that clothes don’t come with explanations for their being and clothes like these won’t look like much or make much of a statement hanging on a rail. My advice would be get a look... make a statement and stick to it because shopping for a new client each season is not the answer to success which brings up to the next designer.

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Prabal Gurung who when he started made the most perfectly exquisite dresses and now for as long I can recall seems to be shopping for a new  client each season. Yes there are some pretty gowns but as far as continuity, the collection hits a lot of speed bumps along the way. The addition of menswear is somewhat silly unless of course one is a wannabe designer home boy. The gowns speak for themselves and the rest is just clothes for the sake of clothes and without a season.

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I understand that the demand on these designers is almost at break point with all the collections but wouldn’t it be easier to follow a path than continually taking a different one season after season to find the correct destination?

Oscar de la Renta prefall 2019

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia have infused something in their reimagining of Oscar de la Renta that I find inarguably  chic and modern and yet in keeping with the DNA of the eponymous founder and designer. The clothes may not be instantly recognizable as being Oscar but they possess a chic, slickness and even a simplicity that serves the brand well.

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Oscar was rarely quietly soigné but this design team hasn’t forgotten the ruffles and flourishes, literally, that he so adored. As a rule prints are a difficult pill to swallow but somehow these are ethnically, richly and stylishly appealing. For some odd reason I imagined the likes of  Nan Kempner, Gloria Guinness, Babe Paley and all those types gliding around in some of these as well as a whole other younger clientele who don’t need to stand out in a crowd with all the  bells and whistles.

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I must say I was a bit hesitant with the decision that have Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia taking the reins of this heritage brand but they have proven that they intend to keep their brand and Oscar on separate tracks while maintaining each brand’s integrity. Don’t get me wrong , it’s not perfect but then again  what is these days but these 2 stand head and shoulders  above so many of their peers as well as those specifically who have taken on the task of perpetuating a brand such as this.

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