Friday, February 19, 2016

Marc Jacobs fall 2016 NYFW




Well, there are times that one must acknowledge a designer and his collection based on the things other than commercial or salable or for that matter even wearable. Marc Jacobs is a showman ... hands down, he gets it. There are very few designers who understand the concept of designing for a runway, let alone a cavernous space like the Armory. He so grasps the concept.

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

Everything about the show was over the top, everything exaggerated and well everything pretty fabulous as far as showmanship and spectacle. The show reminded me of a show I believe he did for Vuitton that was very Folies Bergère and that was an event.

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

Regardless of show notes, the proportions were explosive, the embellishments, the fabric treatments, the make-up, the hair, the platform boots... Everything refusing to be ignored, everything demanding attention which in some ways is visual overload BUT it was the clothes that attracted you. Maybe you were attracted or repelled but you looked, you had to... no choice. BTW, how many shows can you say reach this level... good or bad?

 
click image to enlarge

click image to enlarge

So let’s have a few words about the clothes which for the most part were show/editorial/red carpet but buried within all of it were some pretty chic sophisticated looks with a very couture-ish undercurrent of YSL a few hints of Klimt and Dali to name a few. Marc happens to be a great stylist/designer who freely borrows and references which he openly admits to and for that alone he should be commended given the amount that other designers take credit for stuff they use. Something struck me here when I cut off the heads and didn’t look at the boots; there were amazing fabric treatments and embellishments, beautiful fabrics but one really has to wonder who his customer is. That aside, he provided a highlight of an otherwise extremely humdrum me too week of clothes... just clothes... Not fashion.