Well, there are times that one must acknowledge a designer
and his collection based on the things other than commercial or salable or for
that matter even wearable. Marc Jacobs is a showman ... hands down, he gets it.
There are very few designers who understand the concept of designing for a
runway, let alone a cavernous space like the Armory. He so grasps the concept.
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Everything about the show was over the top, everything exaggerated
and well everything pretty fabulous as far as showmanship and spectacle. The show
reminded me of a show I believe he did for Vuitton that was very Folies Bergère
and that was an event.
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Regardless of show notes, the proportions were explosive,
the embellishments, the fabric treatments, the make-up, the hair, the platform
boots... Everything refusing to be ignored, everything demanding attention which
in some ways is visual overload BUT it was the clothes that attracted you. Maybe
you were attracted or repelled but you looked, you had to... no choice. BTW,
how many shows can you say reach this level... good or bad?
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So let’s have a few words about the clothes which for the most
part were show/editorial/red carpet but buried within all of it were some pretty
chic sophisticated looks with a very couture-ish undercurrent of YSL, a few hints of
Klimt and Dali to name a few. Marc happens to be a great stylist/designer who
freely borrows and references which he openly admits to and for that alone he should
be commended given the amount that other designers take credit for stuff they
use. Something struck me here when I cut off the heads and didn’t look at the
boots; there were amazing fabric treatments and embellishments, beautiful
fabrics but one really has to wonder who his customer is. That aside, he
provided a highlight of an otherwise extremely humdrum me too week of clothes...
just clothes... Not fashion.
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