Well, I’m onto this no trend is the trend concept. While the
fashion world is romancing black and fur one more time for fall 2016,
Massimiliano Giornetti has decided Salvatore Ferragamo will be about color and
I mean smack you in the face color with winter white and black as the palette
cleansers.
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Admittedly the first viewing of the collecting is a bit jarring,
but upon a second more incisive look, the clothes are a stand-alone beautiful
expression of what happens when designers design and speak to their clientele
and not look over their shoulder.
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Okay, so let us speak of the pinked/reptilian/ rick rack edging
or seaming, buttons as ornamentation, pleating, horizontal color blocking,
zippers, layers/tiers and knits ... oh yeah COLOR! All of these elements add up
to a collection that has great polish and yet there is an artsy craftsy edge to
it that gives it a dose of light heartedness as well as serious superb craftsmanship.
Knits are happening every way imaginable, zippers are releasing and
embellishing, and the chevron patterning is just knocking your socks off. The
collection as a whole is extremely graphic and bold which is something that few
will ever attempt. Without question this is also a collection that is feminine
in the way that it focuses on the waist as well as being more on the body
conscious side rather than the pervasive 3 sizes too big concept.
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To my eyes, this is a less serious Ferragamo and maybe it is
because fashion as a whole has taken itself way too seriously lately with far
too much blah blah blah and not enough of what actually backs up these
iterations. This is a collection that will speak from the racks and it will
beckon the client to buy or at the very least to try on. Some of the shoes are
fabulous as well as the patterned boots but, for me, the mink shoe could have
been left on the drawing board even if it does seem a bit kitschy at this point.
On the other hand the mink bags are wonderfully fun as is the handbag category
in general.
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My only regret is that Giornetti didn’t take this season to
reprise his excruciatingly beautiful fall 2011 collection that was of similar graphic quality. Giornetti
has proven himself to be a more than a worthy/capable designer in both men’s
and women’s and each season he affords us another chapter in the evolution of
the brand under his tutelage.
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PS ... take note that there is very little evening wear in
the collection and this is surely a reaction to the fact that so many designers
have focused on evening and tossed aside
the daywear category.
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