The 3 D’s
Dumbed Down Dior...
BUT … I’ll take this over any Raf
collection, any time!!
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As was said to me by someone I truly respect for their
design prowess and knowledge “A few sequins and masses of 4 ply
silk crepe do not couture make” to which my reply was simply that at least they
have returned to a more literal interpretation
of the Bar. With that said, some of the jacketed styles, I found to be quite
beautiful as well as one particular interpretation with “furled” peplum. The sad part is that take away the tailored
pieces and there isn’t much to see.
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The clothes succeed in being quite feminine
but it is blatantly apparent that these designers are either not adept enough
or familiar with the importance of dresses within a collection such as this.
Their idea of a dress is rather school girlish or pedestrian; case in point the
Arnel looking bell sleeved print gown.
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This was a collection known for a luxe,
raffiné and lush point of view and now these aspects are absent from this
maison. For far too long the absence has been palpable and there needs to be a return to the roots of the haute
couture ... think Bohan, Galliano, Dior, Ferre … think about the exquisite
details, embroideries and fabrics that
are all missing from this collection. Without question, it is plainly visible
that the clothes are impeccably rendered which is as it should be especially
haute couture.
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The question again arises “can haute
couture be commercial? “And that haute couture should not look like a slightly
enhanced pret a porter. It should be noted that for decades, haute couture was
the laboratory for so many, if not all, of the heritage brands. Each of the seasons served as hint or a
foreshadowing of what might in store for us in the coming ready to wear
collections.
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