Sunday, December 24, 2017

Christmas 2017

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire
Jack Frost nipping at your nose
Yule-tide carols being sung by a choir
And folks dressed up like Eskimos
Everybody knows a turkey and some mistletoe
Help to make the season bright
Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow
Will find it hard to sleep tonight
They know that Santa's on his way
He's loaded lots of toys and goodies on his sleigh
And every mother's child is gonna spy
To see if reindeer really know how to fly
And so I'm offering this simple phrase
To kids from one to ninety-two
Although it's been said many times, many ways
Merry Christmas to you
And so I'm offering this simple phrase
To kids from one to ninety-two
Although it's been said many times, many ways
Merry Christmas to you

Monday, December 18, 2017

THE 10 BEST READS OF 2017



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This reader/reviewer was slack jawed when realizing the lasting influence that this designer/brand had on future generations as well as the foundation that was built for the art of haute couture. You might take notice that Worth influenced everyone from Jacques Fath, Charles James, Christian Lacroix, Giambattista Valli, and Christian Dior, as well as John Galliano’s oeuvre for Dior; frankly it’s an extraordinary accomplishment and legacy that few ever allude to.

All About Yves
All About Yves contains little that is new but with this unbelievably unique presentation, Örmen has unearthed a treasure trove of memorabilia that has only been previously written of but never seen in book form. The monograph was first released in France last year and now its translation appears here in the USA at a time that seems propitious given the very recent openings of the YSL museums in both Paris and Marrakech.

Fashion Together: Fashion's Most Extraordinary Duos on the Art of Collaboration, Trust, and Love
Fashion Together is a collage of 18 redacted interviews between Stoppard and her subjects. The primary or main topic is about the dynamics of working together as a team while involved in some creative process having to do with the world of fashion. What is most stunning in many ways is that the conversations range from intimate to vapid to enlightening to cases of TMI.

Unquestionably Robert Fairer has delivered a gift, a paean, and a love letter to every fashion aficionado, the business of fashion, as well as to any fashion reader no matter their level of fashion education. This uniquely gifted visionary with exquisite talents has taken it upon himself to jolt our fashion consciousness and literally shout at us that John Galliano is undeniably one of the greatest designers of our generation.

Chaumet: Parisian Jeweler Since 1780
Be prepared to be dazzled by their work in pearls, cameos, and exotic materials that boggles the mind; who knew this was the favored jeweler of Napoleon and Josephine? Who knew that they centuries ago they collaborated with Breguet to produce timepieces? Who knew that there was such a thing as a “watch” that told time and a separate one to tell the day of the week? The book is full of bits and pieces of ephemera that will feed the most hungry and inquisitive of minds.

Dior: The Collections, 1947–2017 (Catwalk)
Alexander Fury has perhaps written one of the most insightful, intelligent, eloquent and detailed appraisals and assessments of all that was Dior haute couture—each designer, each collection, and each era. The introduction and text are head and shoulders above any before, especially when dealing with a singular brand or designer. What is confounding is that regardless of the superlative content and style with which it is written, there is nothing to prepare you for the visual and informational onslaught that lies within this epic 632-page tome.

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion
Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is a crash course in all things Cristobal Balenciaga but in a highly curatorial way. For the very well fashion educated reader there may not be a lot that is new, but Miller is so all encompassing and thorough that the book is remains a must read. For the less informed reader the book will give them everything they might ever need to know about this consummate creator and designer.

House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Chatsworth, Home to the Devonshires
One is given a rare glimpse into their sartorial choices, their impossibly luxurious living conditions as well as heirlooms, treasures and remembrances. The complex fabric of the Devonshire clan including friends, relatives, and preferences when it came to designers and where to shop, what to buy and what purpose they served is all laid out within.

Dior by Christian Dior
Saillard, who is an amazingly skilled and well-spoken historian and author, offers us just enough text to remind the reader of the history and the man and the genesis of the brand, but what happens outside the text is simply beyond one’s wildest expectations. The reader is transported to an exquisitely curated view of the Dior archive that will surely be a revelation to most. This reader came away with a new set of opinions and perspectives.

Italian Jewelry of the 20th Century
The narrative is encyclopedic in content yet enormously interesting and engrossing. If the prospective reader has more than just a passing interest in the finest of jewelry, this book will certainly satisfy or a fill a void that has been missing in the annals of jewelry makers and their histories.

FOR FULL REVIEWS PLEASE CLICK THIS LINK ….  https://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/reviewer/jeffrey-felner

Wednesday, December 13, 2017

GUCCI pre fall 2018



And you thought the only laugh of the day was that Omarosa got the boot and that the only clown car was parked in front of 1600 …. Well that would be wrong as you will soon see!
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Not long ago, one of the big suits at Gucci was carrying on to WWD about how they really don’t sell logos and that it wasn’t a core of their business … and now you thought that the only one whose pants were on fire was that excuse for a leader in the oval office. Apparently the memo about logos never reached the so called designer who has assembled a souk of almost laughable looks that defy even a design school student’s imagination. 
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If I really had to sum it up quickly I think best said would be that the horse has been dead for a few seasons now and why are you still beating it? This is some excuse for a collection that uses the logo for everything except wallpaper and toilet paper which might be far better than a box pleated skirt or those ghastly funneled drawstring boots. One of my favorite looks was the Shirley Temple, you figure it out, and then the one with saggy tights and 3d glasses ala someone’s demented granny from the old country circa 1930. 
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Yes I actually did like something … there was one oversized quilted bag/tote in a sort of trapezoid shape that I found to be very tasty if you want big ass Gs’ emblazoned on your bag. After that, I must say I find nothing redeeming about this farce other than I guess accessories rule the day since the clothes are what thrift stores are made of.

Thursday, December 7, 2017

Chanel Metiers d’Art .... Hamburg 2018



Grüße aus Hamburg
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 Let the fawning begin and bring out the smelling salts and the depends. The accolades are streaming in and yet I can’t seem to see the supposed fabulousness of this presentation. Yes the purpose is to display the work produced by the Chanel-owned luxury artisan-specialist companies, Maison Michel (millinery), Barrie (Scottish cashmere), Goossens (jewelry), and Lesage (embroidery). Yes, mission accomplished, but the clothes certainly left a lot to be desired. This was commercial Karl just a more expensive version …. Well at least for the most part.
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The real star here was the tailoring which seemed uncharacteristically sharp/cleaner and offering a more defined silhouette to the suits, jackets and coats. Yes, this was Karl coming home to Hamburg and much has been made of the fact that Hamburg is a coastal /seafaring city hence the nautical influences. Even the fisherman (aran) sweaters took on a Chanel touch when paired with leggings, opaques and captain’s hats. I know, I know the cropped full legged sailor pant is an iffy situation at best but oh the jackets and the coats.
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The overall effect was sort of this Night Porter meets Coco meets Greenwich Village beatnik cool meets motorcycle mama meets "hey sailor.". The shoes were divine; the accessories bountiful, the bags ranged from the Chanel standard fare to the rather amusing accordion (concertina) but let’s go back to the hats which were part of every total look. As is always the case with any Chanel collection , there were the de rigeur Karl Klunkers and this collection was possibly more rife with them than usual. The dresses seemed oddly out of synch with the tone of the collection despite their over the top embellishments. They ranged from downright “you must be kidding me” to “well, if I must.” Don’t get me wrong there were a few looks that might even register as amazing.
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One of the things that struck me was there was an almost exact duplication of a suit from the 60s which was photographed on Romy Schneider and being fitted by Coco herself. Seemed odd since Karl has always massaged and manipulated the DNA but rarely if ever practically copied line for line let alone in  the same coloration. All in all, to me, this was really not much to write home about but then again it is still better than most of the flock’s best efforts. 
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Monday, December 4, 2017

meet Sean McNanney and get SAVED



Now that Black Friday and Cyber Monday have gleefully passed, let’s move on to the kind of items that never make it to the sale rack and scream I’m worth it!
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We are firmly entrenched in the season of giving which for some is a joy and others dread. Each year this seasonal ritual seems to arrive earlier and earlier and each year so many of us try to always “one up” last year’s gifting activities.  With that in mind, this year,  why not just skip all the in between gifts race directly to the top ... after all cream does rise to the top ... n’est-ce pas?
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All of us know that there are few “giftables” that can be considered luxurious, utilitarian and even possibly covetable. Most have realized that with the cold weather upon us that there is very little that can protect us or keep us warm once these winter temperatures have dropped. Now, I’m not talking about Heattech from Uniqlo or a down jacket from Canada Goose or even a Moncler puffer; I am talking about the ultimate luxury indulgence against the frosty climes … a cashmere throw to wrap yourself in whether indoors or out depending on your fashion savvy and skills. Well, actually not just cashmere but also alpaca and YAK………….. Yes YAK! (www.saved-ny.com )
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Enter Sean McNanney and SAVED. He brings a lot “to the table” that has previously only been dominated by the likes of Hermès and Pendleton and only one of them would be considered luxurious or the last word in living well.  Not only does SAVED NY offer a variety of luxe fabrications but they also offer you unique and rare patterns especially within this category.  Pendleton may offer you Navajo patterns or stripes and Hermès, well ... they throw an H at you but SAVED NY offers an incredible assortment of visual delights to choose from. Think of this brand as an ever changing smorgasbord rather than just a fixed menu of a meal.
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Take your pick; yes the de rigeur solids and the bordered styles, but also the maddening lushness of malachite and exotic maddered paisleys in addition to animal prints and classic menswear patternings.  If you do your homework you will realize there are few other brands,  if any,  who can offer this kind of spectacular and original assortment of designs.
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Jeffrey Felner: Can you give us a brief self-history? … Personal and professional, up until this point?

 Sean McNanney: I am a Brooklyn based artist and designer who most recently worked with Ralph Lauren Home. Drawing upon my background in textiles, and inspired by the traditions of Mongolian nomadic culture, I  created a collection of quality throws, pillows and blankets dedicated to providing luxurious warmth to the curated home. The SAVED collection brings old world traditions into the new with unique designs influenced by Victorian ephemera, French ironwork and early 20th century textiles. Each item is hand-crafted in fine, sustainably sourced Mongolian Yak Down, Cashmere and Camelhair. Designed to be loyal and lasting - A Warm Friend
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JF: What is your MO (modus operandi) when it comes to home fashion and why did you opt for luxe throws/coverlets/home accessories as the conveyance of “sending out your message?”

SM:  I wanted to create a line of quality home accessories, something that will be saved an heirloom in a day of throw away culture.  While working with craftsmen and herder working in traditional ways.
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JF; If you could invite any 5 people to dinner who would they be and why?

SM: Hamish Bowles, would look forward to what he is wearing -Oprah Winfrey Just have to! -Amy Sedaris for the humor -Cathy Lee again for the humor -Jonathan Anderson (designer at Loewe) I really admire what he is doing in fashion 
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JF: What begs to be asked here is can you offer some insight into how you achieve what so few have been able to offer and that is the exquisite patternings?  Most popular?

SM: I’m a collector and constantly inspired by pattern, I enjoy telling a story that the viewer can feel they are a part of it or feel it’s familiar to them.   It’s hard to tell what is the most popular; people love the designs as much as the workmanship on the simpler pieces.
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JF: What is the big picture here; where to you see yourself as designer and brand in 5 years? Who is the SAVED client? Brand extensions?

SM: I do plan to continue with home accessories, down the road a line of fashion accessories (scarves, hats, gloves, etc.) and do home to have another store one day.
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JF: Lastly, let’s discuss how you wish to sell your product?

SM: We sell online at our site www.saved-ny.com along with several stores such as Barneys, KRB in NYC as well as Garde and Obsolete in LA
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