Alessandro
Sartori is plying his skill as a designer and bringing a new flavor to what once
was the home of the staid Italian tailored business suit of choice when Brioni,
Oxxford, Kiton and Savile Row were hitting the mark.
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What
fascinates me here is that yes, there is an enlarged vocabulary of what
constitutes a jacket but what has really been massaged is the DNA of the brand.
The evidence is in how it was presented, the fabrications and the palette. Of
course, there was a rather large assortment of silhouettes and proportions but
much of it might have looked even more modern and less contrived if not so
overly accessorized and styled.
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We will forgive
Signor Sartori the use of a decades-old Gaultier wrap blazer and possibly the racial over-diversification of models of a very non-diversified age group. Sadly, one
might be quite curious to see what these clothes would have looked like on
those who were not quite so young and more mature and polished in terms of
looks rather than just age.
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The optical
patternings might have been a bit overkill but not really detrimental as a whole.
As a collection, it should be seen as one that needs to be dissected to find
wonderful outerwear, beautiful suits in a variety of shapes and even some
wonderful knits. In other words, the collection should really not be reviewed
on its face but as the sum of all of its parts that create a collection.
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Without doubt
the collection is not over trended or trying to hard, it is merely trying to
evolve with the times and Sartori is most definitely essaying to put his
imprimatur on this once suits only heritage brand.
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