So, here’s the thing... what exactly is Pierpaolo trying to convey
here? My thoughts are that he just makes clothes… no thread of continuity
either within the collection or within the brand itself and certainly bears no
resemblance to the once heralded and glorious original brand.
 |
| click image to enlarge |
 |
| click image to enlarge |
He is supposed to be a genius of how
he has reawakened the brand and I say to what? One season its moomoos... one
season it’s nuns, one season it's one size fits all, one season its fairy
princesses and then there is this … which is what … hooker meets Princess Gloria Thurn und Taxis? When you run out creativity and possibly
talent you go for the sight gimmicks like big hair, nipples and headdresses. This
is not Vegas baby and it’s not even as good as Vegas.
 |
| click image to enlarge |
It just so happens that there is a
pink off the shoulder gown derived from a fall 1988 ready to wear collection. In
its original state, it was black silk velvet with white charmeuse bows placed
up and down the sleeves and it was glorious beyond words… but so was the entire
collection. This one throws bows on dresses and I suppose one is to believe
they were archivally inspired and if that’s the case he sure did take a wrong
turn.
 |
| click image to enlarge |
 |
| click image to enlarge |
The most beautiful pieces were the all-over sequin sheaths even though he added some that were backless and some with
bow detailing on the rear of the gowns. The clothes are almost steroidally overblown in volume and proportion and I defy you to tell me that the purple u neck
dress will look good on any living human being. While I’m on the subject who
wants 6-inch stiff ruffles starting at the hip (most women’s sore point)
forming and deep vee in flaming red? Again, and the naked nipple pieces are for
what reason, where and why do they fit into the mix?
 |
| click image to enlarge |
 |
| click image to enlarge |
There is practically no day wear, but then
again maybe the “genius” believes these frocks can be worn to the supermarket. Where
are the gorgeous double-faced cashmere coats and jackets and exquisite wool
dresses of times gone by or is it that his ladies now go from sweats to balls
out looks that take the form of black-tie ball gowns.
 |
| click image to enlarge |
Someone will have to explain to me why
this collection will be hailed and lauded as brilliant and why the myth that he
is a brilliant designer is perpetuated season after season.
No comments:
Post a Comment