Well, that
was refreshing! Kris Van Assche has done a masterful job with this collection even if truly believe that
Sartori was really a start at Berluti. Yes, the collection skews younger but I’m
sure the prices haven’t done the same which is what really complicates the brand’s
impact.
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Some of the
clothes are truly fabulous like the full-length herringbone shaded puffer and the
black/fuchsia double face top coat. Remember, Berluti started as a shoe brand
and in keeping with that Van Assche certainly made use of the brands shaded
leather patinas and added some truly great patternings like the “Bambi dot” and
the stripings. My issue is that it’s too bad that the leathers were shown in
such a matchy matchy way head to toe.
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Color is
surely a welcomed aspect but one really must face facts and ask if the man who
can afford this brand will run out to buy a flaming red or hot pink suit or one
that borders on chartreuse. I’m not quite sure why Van Assche chose trainers as
the go to footwear since I believed that ship had sailed by now.
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Take away
all the logic and just focus on the
visual and it’s a glorious celebration of what menswear can look like even when
the fashion world has gone mad trying to justify and normalize the likes of
Gucci et al! The collection is polished precise, a little superfly but a lot of
simply wearable pieces whether bought as complete turnouts or as pieces.
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Last thing,
its too bad the casting wasn’t a tad older looking and not so barely past 20 years
old since as said Berluti doesn’t come cheap! One last thought is that it occurs to me that the collection
does remind me of Paul Smith when he does color on steroids!
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