clock lick for full review
https://www.nyjournalofbooks.com/book-review/dior-joaillerie-dictionary
Saturday, October 31, 2020
Tuesday, October 27, 2020
Monday, October 26, 2020
Celine spring 2021
Well … there are several schools of thought here … been there done that, everything old is new again and mostly you better get digging in mom’s closet museum, maybe even grandma’s, then your little brother’s and sister’s and lastly your boyfriend’s.
I mean really Hedi…. camo with Celine slapped on it, baseball caps on every exit. Useless silly beaded pieces that probably are in the mid to high thousands price wise because who doesn’t heed a beaded hoodie (that Jeanette Katzenberg did 40 years ago… think St Martin for a few hundred bucks) and oh lest I forget denim in a profusion of shapes and sizes at stratospheric prices.
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Yeah, in a way the collection speaks to the times just not in a good way, it all looks old and tired and smacks of Chanel to the point of chain link prints and cardigan jackets and oh excuse me white oversized sunglasses are a must to complete the look with slogging boots. Can we talk about glittery Amish inspired dresses?
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I don’t understand the need to spend untold amounts of money to show pedestrian, boring, unoriginal and basically totally uninspiring or unaspirational clothes that kids will never be able to afford but can certainly get the look from second hand stores and closet museums at home.
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Oh well Hedi… you didn’t disappoint you came through with flying colors as maybe one of your worst showings ever on a grand scale lowering the bar even further.
Saturday, October 24, 2020
Alexandre Vauthier spring 2021
It is no secret that I am a fan of this man... I almost always seem to believe that he gets it. He is not worrying about making political statements or pushing an agenda… he is a designer and therefore he designs clothes… and I might say some pretty freakin fabulous ones.
This season I think part of what was troubling to me is that it was shot in NYC and as everyone knows the city is not what it once was but this morning I went back to look at the images and read about the collection via his words and I subtracted my issue from the equation and here is what I came up with.
I love these clothes ... they are superbly rendered, this is a happy collection in that it is wearable, not overly sexed up not overly glitzed out and as he points out he sees some Halston in it. I might agree to disagree with him there as I see the Halston but I also see some Donna Karan and some Yves St Laurent and by saying that I’m in no way saying that this is a derivative collection. There’s some sort of comfort factor these references bring to the collection.
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There are fun pieces like a candy wrapper romper and serious pieces like the black reed slim gowns which are superb, some real actual wearable day clothes and then an assortment of some slightly over the top pieces but the overall mood is joyous and not mournful and not matronly and certainly not pushing the envelope over the edge.
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Hopefully in my lifetime I will see this young man get the hype and glory that goes so undeservedly to so many. Vauthier is a true talent, a true designer with his eyes wide open who stands head and shoulders over so many who are “ad dollar spotlighted!”
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Kudos... félicitations et je t’embrace and most MERCI!
Raf Simons spring 2021
It’s his own youth that interests him. “I don’t want to show clothes, I want to show my attitude, my past, present, and future. I use memories and future visions and try to place them in today’s world.”
The press release for his teen dream collection lists the films that inspired him, many of which he has cited before, from Alien and Alice in Wonderland to Picnic at Hanging Rock and A Nightmare on Elm Street.
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These words from his mouth and his press release, the poor demented faux intellectual who now joins the ranks and Maria Grazia Meatball and, of course, the Einstein of fashion ... Miuccia. Slap those slogans, badges and picture’s on clothes and send out YOUR message because that’s what young people pay thousands for … to be your walking billboards and reflections of one’s twisted youth.
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For all his theoretical
talent and intellects did it occur to him that this was to be a spring collection
and that some of the color combinations ( salmon and green being one of my faves) are nausea inducing aside from that little bit
of reality which is called sales and when the fuck are you wearing these
clothes in the near future or ever for that matter… but no matter as long as
your name is on the label. The clothes look a bit Robin Hood and maid Marion circa 2099... if not a tad funereal!
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For all the hype that he receives I would like to know who can point out the revolutionary talents that he supposedly possesses or for that matter ONE single original idea! …. Certainly, wasn’t the casting!
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His claim to fame as far as I can tell is that he is the one designer who practically singlehandedly brought down an American brand that was a juggernaut of American fashion… boy Raf… how I envy your hubris and delusion in thinking that you bring anything to this table we call fashion!
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