Here’s the hitch with this collection, unless one is really familiar with the brand... when Yves was alive, you miss the nods he gives to the designer BUT Mr. Vaccarello certainly went overboard in too many ways!
The first thing I noticed is that the heels are literally skyscraper heels with platforms to the point that the models were most either hunched forward or tilted back or wobbling which serves no purpose and certainly doesn’t enhance the clothes. Then we move onto the flood of skin tight catsuit and pants which doesn’t mean they are sexy; it just means they are second skin. Next up there were those jumpsuits/catsuits where Vaccarello used a bodice... (to the uninformed that’s the top half of a gown) and plopped it on as the top half of a catsuit and no it doesn’t work like that, this is not paper dolls.
There were wonderfully tailored jackets that may have had the original YSL flourishes that came in the way of buttons or sleeves or embellishments and then there were a few skirts that might have been exactly as St Laurent did them except Vaccarello didn’t carry through and used transparency on top of those ball skirts. when one has an archive such as this, it is imperative that it is used properly and sadly the end results here were not flattering.... droopy drapey tummies on skintight catsuits and wonderfully draped necklines that are not a match to catsuit bottoms. It’s the square peg in the round hole syndrome!
Yes, the models were impeccably groomed and the accessories tasteful and possibly even in the original St Laurent vein but as a whole it didn’t make much of a statement except that yes, we believe in jackets and catsuits and shoes you can’t walk in and that is sad!
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