Here’s my conundrum with Olivier Rousteing and that is from day one I could see that this young man had talent and a skillset that was hard to match. Did I think he was a match for the brand? .... well, no but in his ten-year stint he has certainly redefined the brand with his own kind sex appeal, embellishments, tailoring and audience.
While this collection was celebratory, I found that the last 15 pieces spoke more to the designer’s prowess than the previous 100 odd exits. Dust mop length pants and napkin length sleeves are a thing of the past and he is fooling himself to think that life will return to how it once was.
Ignoring the past 12-18 months is a huge error in judgement as it has taken its toll on every business and everyone who has lived through it. No, I am not saying the world has become one big pair of sweat pants but it surely isn’t about barely there clothes which scream overt sexiness or complicated design. Case in point is that an editor’s pencil was needed here and given that he showed both men’s and women’s together and that they overlapped a bit too much, the collection became oh okay that again even if it wasn’t exactly the same!
For some reason, I sense that there is something very childlike about him and that his thought process is very elemental in many ways, yet his skillset is far above many of his colleagues. Let’s just say it is a bit sad to live in a bubble when your talents can be steered to staggering heights. Not everyone wants to be mummified or nearly naked at staggering price points.
There are some wonderful ideas here....unfortunately they often fight against one another on the same model. For me, his sense of proportion is often off; as you said he needs an editor...desperately. l have always found the severely long sleeves and pants absurd. Obviously a lot of talent but he needs to consider customers and end use. The idea that fashion is purely and art form makes me choke...it is a business.
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