Parisian Pastiche fall men's 2013

Damir Doma is a collection I look at season and after season hope that I will one day “get it!”   Well,  I GOT IT loud and clear for Fall 2013.  Whether or not it is his intention, this is the way I see it; re-styled without all the gimmicky head gear and hair, I see a collection that is very chic and very sophisticated.  Mr. Doma, apparently uses this shirred waist pant in his collections as a staple which has a striking similarity to an elastic waist gym pant and I say that without criticism.  I can accept that as his eccentricity or signature as what I really focused on was the jackets.  The jackets are just beautiful and they hold these nuances and details that set them apart from so much of what has been shown over the past week. There is an innate elegance to them even though these are not exactly run of the mill classics but I see them as tweaked classics in so many ways.  At any rate, I am a fan now and wishing I was about a generation younger to wear some of them and you don’t’ hear me say that very often.

Hermes is Hermes. It is of course, the most discreet of luxury collections albeit this season it is actually very boring with the rare exception of the in your face color and  that black croc jacket that cost about a year’s worth of college tuition but Holy Crap!  Talk about an object of desire and lust!

Balenciaga is in a state of flux as its latest designer had not yet arrived for this collection so it was up to the design studio to deliver this fall collection and all I can say is Bravo to them.  I am not a fan of this collection as it tends to be way over the top trendy yet this season there is this simple chic that permeates the collection.  Maybe, this is caused by the simplicity of the pieces and the toned down styling which certainly worked wonders to enhance the offering.  By simplicity, I absolutely do not mean boring as there are so many beautiful pieces that will cross the line from trendy to classic in a heartbeat.  The jackets and outerwear are jut gloriously clean and without pretention and yet you feel the DNA of this brand especially in the slope shouldered tweed wrap coat; it doesn’t get much more Balenciaga than this!

Belstaff is certainly trying to make a big  splash in the luxury market and with this Fall 2013 collection it will happen sooner than later.  There is no question that the brand is known for leather outerwear but I just wish that they would dial down the rich man biker look so that it is not as pervasive.  The jackets are unquestionably just exquisite and again they need to try to not show almost every exit with their heavy duty biker leather pant.   The tease of knitwear was exceptional and some of the “cloth” coats equally so.  Much to Martin Cooper’s credit, the styling, as far as models and their appearance, is first rate and aspirational to say the least.  If there is a counterpart to the rich bitch biker girl collections of the past, this is it just without all the bells and whistles!

Chanel ..pre fall 2013

 As is the norm here for the house of Chanel, the pre fall presentations are all about the exquisite ateliers than are under the awning of Chanel.  This season is no exception albeit there seems to be a bit more of a link between theme and Mademoiselle Chanel; that being her Duke of Edinburgh moment with all that tweed and argyle and tons of cashmere and scenic Scotland.  I seem to feel a more 18^th century vibe rather than a Chanel moment in overall tone for the season.

Mr. Lagerfeld has taken us to Bombay, St. Petersburg and Venice in previously themed collections but this time I found there to be an allusion to another designer, namely our very own Ralph Lauren.  This particular notion struck me upon the first exit and stayed with me erratically throughout the extensive collection.  Karl, of course goes far beyond the pale with his presentations while Ralph tries to remain more down to earth but … each designer plays to his customer like a maestro!

With almost one hundred exits, which included some menswear and kids, Mr. Lagerfeld flexed his over the top muscle with looks that ranged from typically Scottish to costume epic and all with the uncanny ability to always remain true to the brand.  No question, the collection is to be dissected into tiny pieces, but there was a plethora of jackets and accessories of every kind.  Noticeably placed on the back burner were the handbags and shoes, which are such drivers for the brand but, no matter as this is a collection that will soothe the soul of many a faithful Chanel client.

In the vernacular that is Chanel, there were jackets, tweeds, jewelry galore, pantaloons, hobble skirts, plaids and more plaids, fair isles and more fair isles, leathers, starched white  stock ties and winter whites that would render any women as a royal .. Unless, of course you opted for the off the shoulder sweater with lace trimmed short skirt… very Desperately Seeking Susan.   There were even a few ruffs!

 As is the wont of Karl Lagerfeld, the collection is de trop in the extreme and no matter what reference you see, these clothes are the clothes that will grace costume exhibits of future generations at the Met or the V&A.  I was especially taken with the whites as they are regal and theatrical and I am betting very high on the list of those fortunate enough to be able to afford them.