Sunday, January 20, 2013

Parisian Pastiche fall men's 2013

Damir Doma is a collection I look at season and after season hope that I will one day “get it!”   Well,  I GOT IT loud and clear for Fall 2013.  Whether or not it is his intention, this is the way I see it; re-styled without all the gimmicky head gear and hair, I see a collection that is very chic and very sophisticated.  Mr. Doma, apparently uses this shirred waist pant in his collections as a staple which has a striking similarity to an elastic waist gym pant and I say that without criticism.  I can accept that as his eccentricity or signature as what I really focused on was the jackets.  The jackets are just beautiful and they hold these nuances and details that set them apart from so much of what has been shown over the past week. There is an innate elegance to them even though these are not exactly run of the mill classics but I see them as tweaked classics in so many ways.  At any rate, I am a fan now and wishing I was about a generation younger to wear some of them and you don’t’ hear me say that very often.

Hermes is Hermes. It is of course, the most discreet of luxury collections albeit this season it is actually very boring with the rare exception of the in your face color and  that black croc jacket that cost about a year’s worth of college tuition but Holy Crap!  Talk about an object of desire and lust!

Balenciaga is in a state of flux as its latest designer had not yet arrived for this collection so it was up to the design studio to deliver this fall collection and all I can say is Bravo to them.  I am not a fan of this collection as it tends to be way over the top trendy yet this season there is this simple chic that permeates the collection.  Maybe, this is caused by the simplicity of the pieces and the toned down styling which certainly worked wonders to enhance the offering.  By simplicity, I absolutely do not mean boring as there are so many beautiful pieces that will cross the line from trendy to classic in a heartbeat.  The jackets and outerwear are jut gloriously clean and without pretention and yet you feel the DNA of this brand especially in the slope shouldered tweed wrap coat; it doesn’t get much more Balenciaga than this!

Belstaff is certainly trying to make a big  splash in the luxury market and with this Fall 2013 collection it will happen sooner than later.  There is no question that the brand is known for leather outerwear but I just wish that they would dial down the rich man biker look so that it is not as pervasive.  The jackets are unquestionably just exquisite and again they need to try to not show almost every exit with their heavy duty biker leather pant.   The tease of knitwear was exceptional and some of the “cloth” coats equally so.  Much to Martin Cooper’s credit, the styling, as far as models and their appearance, is first rate and aspirational to say the least.  If there is a counterpart to the rich bitch biker girl collections of the past, this is it just without all the bells and whistles!

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