This is one of those rare times that I find myself at a loss
for words. I am just not sure what to
make of this haute couture collection from Giorgio Armani. Yes I can see some of the Armani DNA and yes even
some of the vocabulary that this designer has been building on for
decades. What I cannot see to find or
see is why he has chosen to go so far afield and seemingly so singularly
visioned with this collection.
Yes there are his signature well-tailored, to a fault, slim pants
but apparently that is the only way he would like to see his customers … in
pants. My question is simply that if
haute Couture is played by the client’s rules, will many of these outfits
result with skirts rather than pants?
Will the magician wand disappear from the necklines of so many pieces?
And does any one really care about the odd millinery?
Another force flowing through the collection is the linear prints which
suggest art deco; but as anyone will
tell you, prints are a very prickly point when it comes to buyers on any level
as they are so personal, so why the concentration?
I do have a question, how do you suppose he got all those models
into those gazar and silk pants without creating a crease? Were the models lowered into them by some
huge mechanical device like a fork lift or crane? Okay, so I have more questions like what the
hell was he thinking when the past several collections have been so
dress-centric and the Armanisims were so much more blatant and beautiful?
This collection usually “shows’ as so luxe and so impeccable
that I find it disturbing that there seems to be something askew here ... from start to finish! Peculiar designs like the supposed “gillet”
and the seemingly clumsy draped or ‘folded” short dresses…. Very little had the
usually light handed touch that is usually so prevalent in this collection.
The bottom line is that I am totally flummoxed by the
collection and I really can’t say I hate it and know I can’t say I love but I
am just unclear about its point of view and raison d’etre for the Armani
ladies. I am sure it will remain one of
the many unsolved mysteries of fashion which will be forgotten in about 3 weeks
when the next Armani show is scheduled in Milan.
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