I have a love hate thing going with Nina Ricci and Peter
Copping which allows me to have this train wreck mentality about the
brand. I have to look at it every season
and I am guessing that I keep hoping that Mr. Copping can make the brand viable
once again.
For some of us who remember the brand from times gone by, it
was a real staple of fashion… very Jolie Madame, very conservative and
ladylike. No one, not even I, have any
desire to see that kind of styling and design employed during its
reincarnation. Mr. Copping has tried to
give Ricci a new image and he certainly has given it his all with this pre fall
collection for 2013. I read that he
would really like not to remain “a niche brand.” Well… That’s all great and good but he needs to
examine the goal by examining his path to reach that goal … the clothes in the
collections.
Strong points in the collection are some beautiful coats and
suits which are beautifully tailored and clean and modern and certainly not
matronly…. The term “Jolie laide” comes to mind although the term is not
usually attached to apparel. The simpler
dresses show an almost architectural
look without being over constructed but then there are some glaring mis steps
like a bubble gum pink number and an over draped, over executed gown.
Mr. Copping certainly has the chops to achieve his goal but he needs to
step back and be a bit more commercial without being boring as he demonstrates
in a few dresses and the coats and suits.
What comes to mind is when one is fully turned out for the day, just
take off one thing and then you are ready to face the world in your latest
look.
Note to designer and stylist… straight up photography works
best for these capsule collections and not so much mood. Propping is unnecessary unless it is in the
background and keep in mind that one NEEDS to see the clothes in a very
forthright manner and not as a seated, leaning or rear view. One last thing, try and find a model that has
a hairbrush! BUT I love the pumps!
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