Elie Saab .. pre-fall 2013

The wonderful thing about Elie Saab is that even though he showed Haute Couture and ready to wear on the same day, he showed 2 very distinct collections.  Each collection was unto itself in that each had a definite point of view and each one was unmistakably Elie Saab.  This in itself is a great combination of discipline ability.

Pre-fall 2013 is all about the clothes that reach many many more women and are far more affordable, not to mention that many more women will covet these clothes for their wardrobes.  These are the clothes of a somewhat more real life as opposed to the clothes of the rarefied Haute Couture.  Mr. Saab shows us he designs clothes and not just retreads or borrows from other designers.  I know it is a novel situation these days but this designer designs!

The ones thing that mgr. Saab insists on is that you take care of your body; these are not half size clothes by any stretch of the imagination.  These are body conscious clothes, if not a tad unforgiving, but these are clothes that quietly scream look how fabulous do I look!  The dresses and suitings are lean, precise, clean, and modern and designed for women to look their best, with or without an accessory of any kind.  Hair, make-up, shoes and hose are the requirement and you can be as chic as any style icon.

The palette is simple and very understandable and allows for endless possibilities.  I have some personal favorites such as the caftan, the white Vee back paneled pant and top, the cropped trapeze like jacket, the razor sharp tailored suits and the peplum dresses.  In actuality, I really don’t think there is a boner in the grouping; it is just a matter of what one prefers more than the other.  When is the last time you ever heard me say that about any collection?

If pre-fall is meant for easy sales, then Mr. Saab should have a sellout season!

Giambattista Valli pre-fall 2013

Mr. Valli earned his stripes catering to young and not so young party girls who wanted beautiful dresses with glorious details and a little bit of an edge.  Last season, he took a bit of turn and moved toward some sportier looks and this season it seems to be solidifying itself in a much stronger way.

The pretty dresses are still here albeit not so decoratively; the dresses are more sedate, less ornamented yet slick  and chic, one in particular reminded me of Madame Gres and yes, that’s a good thing.  He has not abandoned his beloved animal patterns but he has certainly made his mark this season with his deft hand for outerwear and furs.  From mink to grey flannel, it is all here.

The slim cropped at the ankle is pant is at the core of the day looks which he pairs with a fabulous high throated shoe… almost a semi bootie if you will.  Yes, finally, the over powering shoe is gone and here is a shoe which does not distract and yet works with almost every single outfit.  Mr. Valli has now shown everyone that his world is not just about dresses and that he is equally capable of whatever task is  dealt to him.

Outstanding pieces for me were the degrade grey, floral gown, the black/white/lace short cocktail and the long completely draped jersey and on the merit of those 3 alone, he can be proud.  As an observer, I am pleased when a designer of great talent exposes his talents in such beautiful form and in such a positive manner. 

 I anxiously await haute couture and full head on fall.

Christian Dior by Raf Simons pre-fall 2013

Collection 2 and I am not shooting off any cannons nor raising any flag here at Christian Dior for pre-fall 2013.  Raf Simons delivers a slightly schizophrenic collection that speaks to the DNA and vocabulary of Dior but in a rather strange way.

If I had to state what the silhouette is I would say lean and/or waisted.  Yes, there are the famous Dior jackets paired with skirts and/or slouch pants and then there are the oversized plaids.  Yes, let’s talk about those plaids that look oddly reminiscent of Alexander McQueen, so Mr. Simons might have tried to execute them a bit differently.  Then there is that high/low hem length which may work as a gown but surely is peculiar when mixed with a coat and was also “invented” by Balenciaga and not Dior.  We can address the color palette which is again one of those wear it now and fall 2013 mixes but with a preponderance of white which is styled to look very summery complete with white handbag.  Lastly, we can speak to the mini group of tweeds with odd color gloves and shoes and yet seemingly summerlike.

With all this being said, where’s the big whoop?  Yes, I know that the season dictates salable and  bankable clothes but the season does not say they have to be boring.  Yes, there are some pretty clothes within the capsule collection but there are a few lulus as well.  let me just add something about the floor length side sash which I personally think is fabulously dramatic  but hardly what I would consider anything near approaching day wear!

With haute couture being literally days away and full on fall being weeks away, Mr. Simons had best be preparing for laser like criticism of the coming collections.  I hope he is up to the task as it would be such a waste to toss out the customer that Dior has built in the past 10 or so years. 

Tick tock!

SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane pre-fall 2013

Apparently, Mr. Slimane has never seen a photo op that he didn’t want to turn into an editorial or an image opportunity which is really too bad for him and the brand.  If only he opted for color rather than black and white photos and thought about showing an entire garment.  The black rooted bleached blond is not exactly awe inspiring either!  My guess is there is also the issue that he is only focused on selling to the boutiques and not the majors which he will learn  is not a great idea.. . For now!

From what I can see, there is plenty of the namesake’s DNA floating around... from Le Smokings to pea jackets, motorcycle jackets  to that shirred wide gypsy/peasant neckline.  Shockingly enough, Mr. Slimane even managed to throw in a dash of leopard which was certainly well within the vocabulary of YSL and certainly not one of Mr. Slimane’s trademarks.  There is a tough chic about the collection reminding me of when YSL spoke of the riots in the   streets of Paris with girls in motorcycle jackets etc.  The makeup and styling might indicate that those riots and street fashion were major inspirations.

As I stated within another review, there is always a complication when one is overly expectant of another person and here again is the perfect example.  I was hoping that the exquisite color sense of Mr. St Laurent would become part of the new Saint Laurent but perchance it is too premature to even think it.

I am very much of the watch and wait here as I see and believe that Mr. Slimane will outshine his colleague at Dior when it comes to the re-envisioning of a legendary brand.

Thom Browne...pre-fall 2013

This will actually pain me to say but... there are some truly beautiful clothes in the Thom Browne pre- fall collection for 2013.

This is one of those 50 shades of grey stories but I can say that this collection does not lack for innovation, style and silhouette.  Last season, Mr. Browne was beginning to show clues that he might be going in a slightly more commercial direction and my guess is that here is the proof.  Please do not even entertain the thought that these clothes are being sold at Macys or Lord &Taylor anytime soon but they will surely be seen in Neiman Marcus, Barneys and Bergdorf’s this fall season.

The clothes have edge, they have design they have eye appeal and they are slick and cosmopolitan.  Yes, there are some pieces that are extremely costumey and some that might be perceived as matronly.  I am so taken with a few pieces like the multi plaid suit with cropped side slit jacket, the side draped grey dress, the nipped waist full skirted pieces and the leather jacketed “knit” suit that I can hardly believe I am writing about them in such glowing terms.  In a season when apparently the underlying theme seems to be to sell clothes, Mr., Browne has certainly spoken loudly to me!

I would be remiss if I didn’t make the awful more literal written analogy to 50 shades of grey and Mr. Bowne’s story can be just as titillating to a fashionphile.   What I do find interesting is that some of the clothes seem to be deliberately photographed so that they look clumsy and cumbersome but maybe that’s just to satisfy the designer’s mind so that he doesn’t think he crossed the line to “crass commercialism!’

 

 At any rate,  he is a welcomed source of design in that sea of sameness we have come to know

Chalayan .. pre-fall 2013

For many years I was not even a spectator of the “art” of Mr. Chalayan called fashion.  He was one of a rare breed of fashion designers who had elevated the craft of dressmaking, if you will, to an art form... well, more performance art and feats of amazing construction.  Then, about 2 years something magical happened; suddenly the clothes were not just for spectators and spectacle, they suddenly entered the realm of possibly wearable fashion.  I am now a fan!

Mr.Chalayan turns out clothes with nuance, fragility and still with grand flourishes of construction.  Maybe, since I am reading the newest Balenciaga book that I find there is some sort of parallel but no matter how distant, it does exist.  I am awed by the details and the almost undetectable and subtle details that he utilizes; whether it is the razor sharp tailoring or the shape of a cut out or even the origin of a drape.  You may want to reread that passage as there are very few who I look at with such respect for the art and craft of fashion.  I may have only spoken with such regard when addressing the body of work that belongs to Ralph Rucci.

Rather than blather on and on with blah blah blah, please look at the slideshow with a more discerning eye and hopefully you will see what I am speaking about.  I believe that in the future, this designer will surely rank amongst the greats of the 21^st century.

P.S….. I do clearly see that the collection is not perfect and there still is room for improvement but this designer may turn out to be an unsung star in the world of fashion who reveres only those who are deemed press and editorial worthy!