Chalayan... Fall 2018 LFW

Here is yet another example of the evolution of a designer and his oeuvre. You knew from the start that this man was on a different plane than his peers; he saw fashion as partly performance art and partly as an almost mechanical expression and over time he remains the technician, the constructionist, a master cutter,  but now it has taken the form of particularly beautifully made clothes that do not fit into the me too moment of fashion. 

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This collection is again, a display of his abilities but as  the collections progress they increasingly have bragging rights to some outstanding and beautifully made clothes. One more time, no they are not trendy, they are not color of the moment, shape of the moment, and they are uniquely Chalayan and each in its own way quite amazing. There are perfect dresses, unique necklines and drapings, exquisite jackets and coats and even evening wear for women who have the confidence to stand out in a crowd without screaming look at me.  

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The clothes are tastefully chic, if that still exits,  and in an odd way low key despite their complications but nevertheless they need to be stared at and appreciated as being true fashion. Innovative, masterfully designed and perfectly rendered…. How many designers can make that statement?

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Chalayan Paris Collections fall 2013

Two months ago I wrote  “I am awed by the details and the almost undetectable and subtle details that he utilizes; whether it is the razor sharp tailoring or the shape of a cut out or even the origin of a drape.  You may want to reread that passage as there are very few whose collections I look at with such respect for the art and craft of fashion.”  Today I stick to those words and add “this is what designers do… they DESIGN!”

No one would have to neither convince me nor force me to buy these clothes if I owned a store and no one could convince me that there is much out there that holds a candle to Mr. Chalayan’s collection.  I am reminded of the late Alexander McQueen saying “in order to break the rules you must know them” and Mr. Chalayan can lay claim to both!  This collection is modern, chic, innovative and evolving into what might one day become a power house.  There are so many design nuances, touches and flourishes that one must wonder how is it that he is the only one who has acted upon the ideas and concepts.  One might also think that he may be the only one who has “done” it successfully.

Not for a single moment would I want you to think that the collection is perfection; not at all, but the missteps are minor when faced with the ratio of good to bad … the good and maybe brilliant far outweighs most of the error that comprises the trial and error of designing a new collection every few months.  Mr. Chalayan clearly is not the most convincing of evening wear designers but he manages to eke out a few when he steers toward the more minimal side but that can change in heartbeat as I recall in the past that there wasn’t one Italian designer who knew how to design a dress that didn’t look like a uniform of some sort primarily one that was worn by an airline stewardess!

Clearly the clothes are for the “cultivated palette” and not aimed at those seeking immediate attention.  These are clothes that are classic in a most unclassic way and have been tweaked and nudged into stylishly beautiful pieces that will remain in one’s wardrobe for many years to come.  I am now officially “hooked on Chalayan” and thrilled that I never gave up looking and hoping as it is quite rewarding to find this in a sea of sameness that pervades the world of fashion.  The outerwear and tailored pieces are of particular beauty as well as some of the dresses.

Chalayan .. pre-fall 2013

For many years I was not even a spectator of the “art” of Mr. Chalayan called fashion.  He was one of a rare breed of fashion designers who had elevated the craft of dressmaking, if you will, to an art form... well, more performance art and feats of amazing construction.  Then, about 2 years something magical happened; suddenly the clothes were not just for spectators and spectacle, they suddenly entered the realm of possibly wearable fashion.  I am now a fan!

Mr.Chalayan turns out clothes with nuance, fragility and still with grand flourishes of construction.  Maybe, since I am reading the newest Balenciaga book that I find there is some sort of parallel but no matter how distant, it does exist.  I am awed by the details and the almost undetectable and subtle details that he utilizes; whether it is the razor sharp tailoring or the shape of a cut out or even the origin of a drape.  You may want to reread that passage as there are very few who I look at with such respect for the art and craft of fashion.  I may have only spoken with such regard when addressing the body of work that belongs to Ralph Rucci.

Rather than blather on and on with blah blah blah, please look at the slideshow with a more discerning eye and hopefully you will see what I am speaking about.  I believe that in the future, this designer will surely rank amongst the greats of the 21^st century.

P.S….. I do clearly see that the collection is not perfect and there still is room for improvement but this designer may turn out to be an unsung star in the world of fashion who reveres only those who are deemed press and editorial worthy!