First things first, BRAVO to Ms. Yanina who did a complete
180 on the collection and turned her
eponymous collection into a thing of beauty as opposed to a group of clothes
based on Russian folkloric costumes, iconography and imagery. You are to be commended and congratulated!
As a whole, the grouping is sophisticated and very beautiful
but a bit heavy on the embroidered on tulle /soufflé look. There is always room to improve and based on
the 6 months of progress, the next collection will be a 5 star moment. I think some of the dresses are extremely
beautiful and delicate and actually would be helped with a nude lining rather
than the total transparency. The
colorful pieces are less serious yet equally impressive but I think there needs
to be more thought given to the shapes as it is not quite fully distilled. One might extract a sort of 60’s retro vibe
from these. The same might apply to a
green encrusted cocktail dress with the deep u-neck and the slick tight to the
body black gown with point d’esprit inset; the pieces are orphans but should
have more “sisters” and again the balance has not been fully formulated but I
am confident that there will be a corrected proportion in the future.
I think that when showing couture as opposed to ready to
wear, the staging is extremely important as each exit must be given star
treatment as opposed to being shown in groupings on the runway. The intricacy and design nuances must be
appreciated with no distraction from another creations; each piece to be viewed
as a single jewel.
Now that the
collection has taken such great strides towards becoming honest to goodness
genuine Haute Couture, Ms. Yanina must develop a signature of her own aside
from the distracting kerchiefs which I know are an homage to her roots but they
have gotta go. I am looking forward to
the next collection not as I would never have thought that this progress would
happen as it did for this season.
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