Welcome to world of Ricardo Tisci who sees things from grey to black
and back again. Mr. Tisci delivered a far less gimmicky trendoidal
collection which is welcomed here. It is obvious that the formula of
slapping a photo transfer of some type is a successful and profitable
one as here it is again albeit much less cartoonish.
The
opening passages are very Thierry Mugler of yore without the much
exaggerated shoulder but nonetheless collarless or cardigan style of
that Mugler era. Apparently, Mr. Tisci has declared war on collars and
lapels and uses them only on shirts. The war bore fruit though in the
way of the collarless toggle style coats and jackets which were superb.
While on the topic of outerwear, I am not sure why a jacket of some
kind tied at the waist can define a style as new or innovative except in
its pretense of being new.
Aside from the much disliked, by
me, photo pieces, there were the clumsy patchwork whip stitched tops and
coats which were less than eye candy… at least for my eyes! I am
sorry that so much of the collection was so black as there might have
been some wonderful pieces that were missed but due to the darkness were
not seen by aging vision and not enough lighting on stage.
REDEMPTION CAME IN THE FORM OF A MUCH MORE TAILORED COLLECTION!
I
have no illusion about the abilities of Mr. Tisci; I just wish he could
harness them a bit more towards the less tricky! I do believe the
designer could, if he really wanted to, deliver one hell of an amazingly
incredible collection from start to finish… if he wanted to!
P.S. ..Kudos to Mr. Tisci for using models who didn’t look like matchsticks and had some character in their faces!
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