What a pleasure it is to say I prejudged the talents of Raf
Simons. The first collection was
certainly not the excitement thatt he hype led me to hope for but then he went
and did it with this collection. Raf
Simons delivered a discreetly spectacular collection that reeked of the Dior
DNA as well as his stamp on the collection.
This assortment just oozed this incredible delicacy and lightness
that has not been seen for some time at this fabled house. Mr. Simons infused the quality by seemingly employing
fabrics that appeared weightless even when they were draped and embellished to
death. The embroideries were equally
weightless in appearance even though one must assume that the dresses were
quite weighty. The tulle or soufflé embroidered
gloves made it appear as if the models were tattooed with the floral patterns.
While we are on the subject of models, they all seemed to be
cookie cutter short haired gamines of the Audrey Hepburn variety despite the
heavily glossed and probably vaselined lips.
The young women were all pale faced without appearing to be ‘dead girls
walking.” I am even hopeful that Mr.
Simons might re-introduce a turn on the runway which will decrease his availability
of models but wouldn’t it be fun to see the back of dress all in one exit
rather than hoping to see it on its return walk?
The shapes and silhouettes were just exquisite; slim without
being second skinned, full without being theatrically full and body skimming
without being sack-like. The deft had
that he showed with draping is exemplary and the full on gowns seemed to float
despite their volumes. The vibe was
somewhat retro without being over referenced and surely a modern take on the
brand of Dior.
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