La Folie d’Haute Couture Spring 2013

Anyone who follows me on Facebook knows that I have a page called “What were you thinking?” and so I thought that as a conclusion to my Haute Couture reviews, I might inject some of that humor, sarcasm, disbelief and shock into today’s post.

There is no doubt that the Haute Couture brings out one upmanship amongst designers who show in this short period of time. Everyone is pushing the envelope as well as pushing ateliers to accomplish the wildest of dreams and creations.  The designers are also challenging themselves to be as original as possible and to show their mettle when it comes to couture.  All of this in the quest to be taken seriously a world class designer on the rarefied stage known as Haute Couture.  As you see today, the best laid plans of mice and men can go very wrong!

There will be no finger pointing or name calling here, there will just be photos and if photos speak a thousand words, and then I offer to you at least 20, 000 words.

Have fun and while the end result may be the most outrageous and the most fantastical of designs, please remember the artisans who really did the heavy lifting here!

Rami Kadi haute couture sp 2013

Rami Kadi may sound like a menu entrée but this is the name of a new designer from Lebanon who has entered the world of Haute Couture.  As a neophyte in this rarefied world, Mr. Kami demonstrates extraordinary skills but requires some restraint as this collection is at times pitch perfect and then  at times way too over the top in every way.

As I have stated previously over the last week, couture must be shown one a t a time so as to show each piece off to its best advantage.  Mr. Kadi surely needs to do this as between the clothes and the venue, one can experience visual overload instantaneously and repeatedly.  The surroundings are way too baroque for such dresses despite its grandeur and luxurious atmosphere.  The visual tug of war is palpable.

I think one must address the strengths here which seem to be Mr. Kadi’s skill in draping which have gone beyond just draping to the art of origami with multiple folds, festoons, swags and such.  There are some exquisite pieces here but a little self-control would go a long way.  With all the color and the patterning and jacquards, the designer really needs to decide where the focus is here which should be the dresses!

What is very disturbing is that some of the models seem to be standing on stools so that the bottom half of the gowns do not puddle on the floor which eerily elongates their legs to non-believable proportions.  I can understand that he wants to show off the dresses to their fullest but again... Restraint! And in this instance ... common sense.

Within this vast array and assortment of dresses, there lies jewels, somewhat in a way of unset stones.  There needs to be some clarity in direction and some editing so the designer presents a clear cut vision of his design philosophy.  If he wishes to participate on the international stage of couture, he must certainly  lighten the Middle Eastern influence.  I am hopeful that Rami Kadi is a name who will become as well-known as his fellow Lebanese designer Elie Saab who has certainly mastered the art of couture.

Yulia Yanina Haute Couture sp 2013

First things first, BRAVO to Ms. Yanina who did a complete 180 on the collection and turned  her eponymous collection into a thing of beauty as opposed to a group of clothes based on Russian folkloric costumes, iconography and imagery.  You are to be commended and congratulated!

As a whole, the grouping is sophisticated and very beautiful but a bit heavy on the embroidered on tulle /soufflé look.  There is always room to improve and based on the 6 months of progress, the next collection will be a 5 star moment.  I think some of the dresses are extremely beautiful and delicate and actually would be helped with a nude lining rather than the total transparency.  The colorful pieces are less serious yet equally impressive but I think there needs to be more thought given to the shapes as it is not quite fully distilled.  One might extract a sort of 60’s retro vibe from these.  The same might apply to a green encrusted cocktail dress with the deep u-neck and the slick tight to the body black gown with point d’esprit inset; the pieces are orphans but should have more “sisters” and again the balance has not been fully formulated but I am confident that there will be a corrected proportion in the future.

I think that when showing couture as opposed to ready to wear, the staging is extremely important as each exit must be given star treatment as opposed to being shown in groupings on the runway.  The intricacy and design nuances must be appreciated with no distraction from another creations; each piece to be viewed as a single jewel.

 Now that the collection has taken such great strides towards becoming honest to goodness genuine Haute Couture, Ms. Yanina must develop a signature of her own aside from the distracting kerchiefs which I know are an homage to her roots but they have gotta go.  I am looking forward to the next collection not as I would never have thought that this progress would happen as it did for this season.

Zuhair Murad haute Couture sp 2012

Let’s state the obvious here; Zuhair Murad’s collection is unabashedly, unapologetically, unmistakably and overtly sexy.  These are not clothes for the faint of heart or for the shy retiring wall flower; these are the clothes that demand and receive attention.   It is no wonder that J Lo is a devoted fan as Mr. Murad has surely helped define her stage performances by wearing what he has designed for her while on tour.  Please do not assume that she is well suited for the clothes, this is just a statement of fact.

  

Zuhair Murad is pretty much an in your face designer as these clothes are beyond the pale when it comes to sexy.  He operates at full throttle with maximum drama from start to finish.  He obviously is not of the less is more school and yet with all the incredible embroideries and embellishments, he remains true to himself.  He is a credit to haute couture as his ateliers must have worked overtime to produce some of these wonders.  There are allusions to Greek goddess dresses and in some degree Greek Mythology as well. His restraint appears only with his choice of color palette.

Mixed into all the soufflé/tulle embroidered pieces are some lighter than air chiffons/georgettes that can be worn by those mere mortals who have no stage aspirations on any level.  What is interesting is that when he chose to omit the glitz, he chose a very Versace/Hermes inspired print which he worked with deft hand but the couple of pieces got lost in the flurry of sparkle and glitz.  I know that not every single piece that Mr. Murad’s  designs is embellished to this degree and it might be nice to see a few of those “simpler” type dresses make an appearance in the next collection.

The take away here is simply, keep your on eye on this guy as he is not a one shot wonder and not to be counted out.  This was his formal introduction to the land of Haute Couture and as far as first time go, he certainly did shine!

Elie Saab Haute Couture sp 2013

Here’s the thing about Elie Saab, he makes beautiful tasteful dresses that are runway worthy yet not flashy and trashy.  A little trashier might be nice and by that I don’t mean distasteful, just sexier ala that first Halle Berry dress that thrust him into the spotlight. 

Mr. Saab is known for his embroidered dresses and gowns and he remains true to the DNA that he has created.  This season his “loyalty” is all about these tone on tone embellishments and the illusion that all the pieces are gossamer light.  Every dress, no matter how heavily embroidered, seem to be as filmy and floaty as to defy the reality.  His clothes offer alternatives to women of every age as he has also found that not every couture client will wear sleeveless or strapless and I am very sure that in great part accounts for his popularity and success.   With this extra insight he displays a heavy infusion of business acumen.

The primarily monotone collection is all about pastels and softness in every way but one would have to be blind not to see the impact that these dresses make when they are offered in red and black.  Leading lady and star quality are in abundance here at the house of Saab.  He is a wise man in that he confines his couture collection to his evening looks as his ready wear has been slowly expanding with the addition of beautiful day looks.  In essence, Mr.  Saab gives his clients what they need and want and when they want it; he does not try to be one man band which is much to his credit.

My gripe which is the same with almost anyone who employs it, is that below the knee length which cannot possibly be more unflattering on just about everyone but then again, this is couture so that issue is quickly eliminated  upon the whim and wish of the client.