Once you get past the staggering enormity of the collection and the scale of the show, you can take a deep breath and figure out what is going on here. The immediate take away is that some of the tailored pieces, meaning coats, suits and blazers, are gloriously beautiful in cut and fabrication, then we have to deal with the typical Dolce and Gabbana shtick of the season which of course is way over the top, pushing the tacky envelope a bit too hard and there is the dissection technique that is REQUIRED in order to grasp the message of the season. It’s a lotta work!
Being a white shirt freak, I am in heaven with the quantity and variety of white shirts they offer. The ecclesiastical/liturgical tilt to the collection is at times fun and other times just tacky. The floral theme which seems to be most prevalent in the “jacket and coat” pieces might have been far more effective if there were less of them and a bit more on the discreet side; these jackets can offer a short trip to bad taste when overdone. I was very partial to the “Dutch Floral” jackets, especially a tan background one. I was considerably less taken with a floral coat and the floral shoes. In addition, I did love the cardigan “waiter’s jacket” in all its permutations and even the simple solid “normal” suits and jackets and coats showed an unusually sharper and more refined edge.
These guys are showmen extraordinaire but I really just wish they weren’t quite so prolific and I can’t help but think they don’t ever consider a sample unsuitable for the runway. The presentation is dizzying but spectacular in its scale and their bells and whistles are all contained within the clothes and not with offbeat styling and staging. I guess it is all what makes them who they are and every season they tell us exactly who they are and every season they speak in their own vocabulary so it is hard to argue.
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