Once you get past the staggering enormity of the collection
and the scale of the show, you can take a deep breath and figure out what is
going on here. The immediate take away
is that some of the tailored pieces, meaning coats, suits and blazers, are
gloriously beautiful in cut and fabrication, then we have to deal with the
typical Dolce and Gabbana shtick of the season which of course is way over the
top, pushing the tacky envelope a bit too hard and there is the dissection
technique that is REQUIRED in order to grasp the message of the season. It’s a lotta work!
Being a white shirt freak, I am in heaven with the quantity
and variety of white shirts they offer.
The ecclesiastical/liturgical tilt to the collection is at times fun and
other times just tacky. The floral theme
which seems to be most prevalent in the “jacket and coat” pieces
might have been far more effective if there were less of them and a bit
more on the discreet side; these jackets can offer a short trip to bad taste
when overdone. I was very partial to the
“Dutch Floral” jackets, especially a tan background one. I was considerably less taken with a floral
coat and the floral shoes. In addition,
I did love the cardigan “waiter’s jacket” in all its permutations and even the
simple solid “normal” suits and jackets and coats showed an unusually sharper
and more refined edge.
These guys are showmen extraordinaire but I really just wish
they weren’t quite so prolific and I can’t help but think they don’t ever consider
a sample unsuitable for the runway. The
presentation is dizzying but spectacular in its scale and their bells and
whistles are all contained within the clothes and not with offbeat styling and
staging. I guess it is all what makes them who they are and every season they
tell us exactly who they are and every season they speak in their own
vocabulary so it is hard to argue.
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