Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture sp 2013

I am a constant observer of Mr. Mabille’s work as I find so much to like about his design ethic and vision. The flip side of that is there is much that confounds me about his collections. The Spring Haute Couture collection has 2 major flaws, which had they been altered at the onset, the take away from this presentation would have been totally different. Let’s focus on the collection at hand!

Runway color... wrong, very wrong especially with all the pastels which sort of faded right into that shade of titty pink. The silly slapped down silver hair…. Why? The hair was certainly not a boost to the looks, if anything it was to the detriment of the collection. Okay that’s out of the way as these 2 elements just bug me bad!

This season’s offering had a very ethereal look to it and yes due to the lace, point d’esprit, tulle and georgette used throughout. As a whole, the collection is more mature in terms of design and I mean that in a good way as there is nothing more distressing than seeing Haute Couture aimed at 20 somethings who will never wear it or conceive of wearing it. Mr. Mabille, or the “bow guy” as so many might call him, uses that signature effectively keeping the bow as the common thread of the collection. I am intrigued by the “cowgirl look,” the balloon sleeves, the infanta gown, the ombre tulle gown, of course the red bow dress, a few of the knife pleated pieces and that “lavenderish” and black off the shoulder gown. Yes, the long tuxedo gown is sexy and very wearable but certainly nothing we haven’t seen on many a runway over the past few decades. As for those cigarette pants, well, I wouldn’t want to see them after a dinner seating.
On a craftsmanship level, the collection is pretty impressive for if a Couture collection cannot “brag” of what its ateliers can produce, then the couture might as well be ready to wear. This a younger couture with a fresher outlook.

I just can’t help but think that this entire grouping would have shown so much more beautifully and effectively without that pink runway and I just wish they could do a “do-over” as I know the reaction would be much more intense.

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