I am a constant observer of Mr. Mabille’s work as I find so much to like about his design ethic and vision. The flip side of that is there is much that confounds me about his collections. The Spring Haute Couture collection has 2 major flaws, which had they been altered at the onset, the take away from this presentation would have been totally different. Let’s focus on the collection at hand!
Runway color... wrong, very wrong especially with all the pastels
which sort of faded right into that shade of titty pink. The silly
slapped down silver hair…. Why? The hair was certainly not a boost to
the looks, if anything it was to the detriment of the collection. Okay
that’s out of the way as these 2 elements just bug me bad!
This season’s offering had a very ethereal look to it and yes due to
the lace, point d’esprit, tulle and georgette used throughout. As a
whole, the collection is more mature in terms of design and I mean that
in a good way as there is nothing more distressing than seeing Haute
Couture aimed at 20 somethings who will never wear it or conceive of
wearing it. Mr. Mabille, or the “bow guy” as so many might call him,
uses that signature effectively keeping the bow as the common thread of
the collection. I am intrigued by the “cowgirl look,” the balloon
sleeves, the infanta gown, the ombre tulle gown, of course the red bow
dress, a few of the knife pleated pieces and that “lavenderish” and
black off the shoulder gown. Yes, the long tuxedo gown is sexy and very
wearable but certainly nothing we haven’t seen on many a runway over
the past few decades. As for those cigarette pants, well, I wouldn’t
want to see them after a dinner seating.
On a craftsmanship level, the collection is pretty impressive for if a
Couture collection cannot “brag” of what its ateliers can produce, then
the couture might as well be ready to wear. This a younger couture
with a fresher outlook.