Showing posts with label spring2013. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spring2013. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

CHANEL Haute Couture sp 2013



Can we talk?   Karl Lagerfeld astounds us in some way almost every time he shows a collection. Either he blows us away with location and sets, with his themes, his seemingly endless imagination, the art and craft of fashion, a completely incomprehensible collection or in today’s case, more than one of the aforementioned and by the sheer breadth of this presentation.  The amount of exits would be considered large even for ready to wear let alone for Haute Couture.  There is safety in numbers here as it would be near impossible not to have stellar moments and some bloopers as well but the hits are in abundance!

One also has to be impressed, amazed or repelled by the fact that Mr. Lagerfeld can beat a theme to death like no other and when it comes to driving home a point he is primo in his perseverance. Without knowing all the back “inspirations” or blah blah blah, let’s say that Chanel haute couture has a laser focus from below the chin to the elbow.  One lost track of just how many pieces have that flange like detail at the upper arm/bicep area.  One cannot ignore the passages that have emphasis on the rounded and extended shoulder.  One cannot ignore the weightless ness of the typical Chanel tweeds, the lacework, the open toed boots cum leggings and lastly the effusive use of the most lavish couture techniques and materials.

The clothes speak for themselves and the fawners will fawn and try to explain and describe this collection but the best description here is by seeing it and looking at it and formulating why this brand is so successful.  Mr. Lagerfeld leaves no stones unturned and wants everyone as his client and he will have them … from socialites to wives of oligarchs and any of those who can afford it will clamor for it.






P.S. .. this season you  even get a little social commentary as a finale!

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture sp 2013

I am a constant observer of Mr. Mabille’s work as I find so much to like about his design ethic and vision. The flip side of that is there is much that confounds me about his collections. The Spring Haute Couture collection has 2 major flaws, which had they been altered at the onset, the take away from this presentation would have been totally different. Let’s focus on the collection at hand!

Runway color... wrong, very wrong especially with all the pastels which sort of faded right into that shade of titty pink. The silly slapped down silver hair…. Why? The hair was certainly not a boost to the looks, if anything it was to the detriment of the collection. Okay that’s out of the way as these 2 elements just bug me bad!

This season’s offering had a very ethereal look to it and yes due to the lace, point d’esprit, tulle and georgette used throughout. As a whole, the collection is more mature in terms of design and I mean that in a good way as there is nothing more distressing than seeing Haute Couture aimed at 20 somethings who will never wear it or conceive of wearing it. Mr. Mabille, or the “bow guy” as so many might call him, uses that signature effectively keeping the bow as the common thread of the collection. I am intrigued by the “cowgirl look,” the balloon sleeves, the infanta gown, the ombre tulle gown, of course the red bow dress, a few of the knife pleated pieces and that “lavenderish” and black off the shoulder gown. Yes, the long tuxedo gown is sexy and very wearable but certainly nothing we haven’t seen on many a runway over the past few decades. As for those cigarette pants, well, I wouldn’t want to see them after a dinner seating.
On a craftsmanship level, the collection is pretty impressive for if a Couture collection cannot “brag” of what its ateliers can produce, then the couture might as well be ready to wear. This a younger couture with a fresher outlook.





I just can’t help but think that this entire grouping would have shown so much more beautifully and effectively without that pink runway and I just wish they could do a “do-over” as I know the reaction would be much more intense.

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Marc Jacobs Spring 2013 New York Collections

The emperor’s new clothes have arrived for Spring 2013. This time around Mr. Jacobs saw fit to revisit the 60’s … again and Edie Sedgwick … again sans her big earrings, cigarette nor her swagger. I will admit that this season there are a few pieces that I might even say “I like” but that hardly makes a collection. One review I read called him a genius and I say yes he is that as he is able to present a themed pile of clothes that have no relevance to anything relating to present life and garner rave reviews due to his place in the hierarchy of fashion. Explain to me what the extremely graphic nature of the collection is not referenced to the Pop Art movement of the times nor does it give a nod to Rudi Gernreich who is clearly alluded to. The genesis of the collection certainly could have been spun into a richer cast of characters rather than a single drug addled young woman whose star shone for a nano second of that era. Yes, I understand that the hip slung skirts are runway propaganda but even if they are raised up to a waist, the clothes appear dowdy rather than fashionable. As for all the “t’s” I say a big so what! I guess he does deserve an award for making a couple of leopard print pieces look dowdy. So much of this will make great fodder for H&M and Forever 21 so I guess there really are people who will love this collection other than the blindly faithful or those who have been absorbed in the blah blh blah that is Marc Jacobs’ signature.

Donna Karan Spring 2013.. New York Collections

I guess the only way to explain the show is this... if it’s spring it must be origami time. Ms. Karan has a decided cycle she observes or maybe unwittingly observes with the change of each season. For spring summer, history undoubtedly repeats itself as evidenced in this current collection. The clothes are clumsy, bland in color and generally void of any softness or “hanger appeal.” Last tie around was her African inspired prints which in my memory suffer from the same silhouette disease as the current pieces. What I find most disturbing is that Ms. Karan is no stranger to softness nor does she have any problem cutting the sharpest of tailored pieces. She is as familiar with e the hard edge as she is with eh soft drapy side of any collection: they why does this happen? Have a look at the slideshow.. enlighten me … P.S. the only reasoning I can figure is that the collection looks the way Donna dresses these days so it is entirely for her benefit or created in her own image.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

ALTUZARRA spring 2013 NY collections

Okay, so I have to say this guy knows his was around a jacket, no question. I can also say this young man has a fringe fetish, which is a food thing, and I also give him credit for his color palette as well as his pension for more is better. What I really want to know is this … in what universe are the fabulous clothes? Try as I might to understand and continually stare at the images, I am continually perplexed by what I see. Slickest looks were the simple blue cotton shirts tucked neatly into a wrap waisted print skirt and then some of the simpler fringed pieces. Even though I am a great proponent of “more,” I cannot “wrap” my head around the pieces in the last segment that are wrapped, cowled, patched, embroidered, fringed and more. The only thing that comes to mind is Haider Ackerman on heavy duty mind altering drugs. While I admit to his tailoring prowess, who exactly needs jackets whose sleeves are merely decoration? The “bells and whistles” factor is omnipresent but does anyone even possibly think how heavy these pieces are to wear, especially the metal fringed styles? I will be accused of being overly concerned with the utilitarian aspects of the clothes … after all, it is FASHION! My point boils down to this; runway shows are as good as it gets for the hype excitement factor but you still have to sell the clothes to a store who in turn sells to a paying customer. Without the last caveat, you have clothes and no business unless of course you are Gucci and Prada who sell far less clothes than they do wallets and key rings. When Prabal, Jason and Joseph appeared on the fashion horizon, I had great hopes of the next generation of New York or 7th Avenue designers but as time goes by, it appears my hopes of this great triumvirate have been dashed. Yes, each one has designed their way into the future of fashion but 2 out of the 3 will run out of tricks to use season after season after their propitious beginnings.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Prabal Gurung.. New York collections Spring 2013

I am not sure how to start this, but when this young man first started, I was a huge supporter anyway I was able to be. I was awestruck by what how he burst upon the scene with such beautiful clothes and now I am nothing more that dumbstruck by what I see season after season … I am not sure what happened. My theory is usually the same for instances such as this and that is it supposes who is whispering in his ear … a reply to that question is impossible from my end. Apart from the very apparent “allusions” to Givenchy and athletic apparel and maybe a hint of McQueen, I can find little that I understand here. Yes, I know the clothes are aimed all the “pretty young things” who populate the “celebrity gossip pages and awards shows of our times but they don’t pay for their clothes and so my question is who is wearing these clothes and where? The piling on of details surely appears heavy handed while the, by now, his usage of feathers is surely firmly implanted into this collection. I know that, as a “critic,” I am not supposed to be concerned about the retail price of the clothes but these pieces have to be heinously expensive due to the amount of workmanship that each style commands during construction. I keep going back to my question of “why?” I really want to know where the talent that was so apparent at the start is. Why has it been channeled in this current incarnation? Can it rally be ego drive? Stylist driven? How long can it go on in this manner? There is so much of the moment that one wonders what happens when one does buy these clothes… are they one shot wonders and then off to the resale store as, certainly, they cannot be considered classics on any level.

JASON WU Spring 2013 NY Collections

Okay, so here’s the deal… did I love it ... no… did I like it... yes unequivocally! Firstly what needs to be said is that it is so hard to believe that 4 years ago this young man was just starting out as was the current first lady. Today or currently, both are starting new eras; one by choice and one by chance. Jason Wu has come a long way since the beginning and he has slowly evolved to become a top tier designer with his hubris, mastery and his god given talents. This guy has genuine talent and with each collection he continually reminds us of it. He is not afraid to test the waters, to take a chance and yet somehow he never abandons his customer totally. So, with all this being said this season he plays provocateur and he alludes the images of Helmut Newton, but there is so much here that can be dissected and remixed to create beautiful wearable clothes. Yes, there were leather bras, leather harnesses, leather aprons, suspenders and all such things but yet he teased, he “borrowed” and he invented to create outfits that bear his imprimatur. This is a guy who knows his way around a dress and a pattern, not to mention, he is no stranger to draping and construction. He owned what he presented and it was not shock for shock value! The trickery is visual and not structural and the overall look is over the top sexy yet beautiful without really ever crossing that line to garish or louche. He has emerged the winner, way ahead of his peers who started at the same time and are still trying to find themselves and define themselves as brands while this young designer has found his way and found his identity. Welcome the risk taker, much in the same vein as a Gaultier who deceives with shock! I am reasonably sure the pundits will go either of 2 ways... love and rave or hate and dismiss... My choice is love, well at least a lot of like and admiration thrown in! http://www.jasonwustudio.com/