Dress Camp & Motonari Ono..Tokyo Collections Spring 2013

バイバイ Tokyo

Motonari Ono is a collection that deserves an A+ for presentation.  The first half of the show had the collection being shown on dress forms that were carried down the catwalk by models and then the second half was the conventional model as mannequin method of showing.  That kind of originality is what makes the fashion world take notice no matter what else happens on the runway and it kept my interest thorough out.  The clothes have a decidedly Japanese tone but not in the Rei, Junya, Yohji kind of way; the clothes exude an Asian kind of sweetness that you see many Asian women wearing  especially in Hong Kong and Tokyo.  There is a school girl charm about them which might make them a bit cringe worthy on a woman of a certain age.  A little color might have upped the sophistication level and elevated that saccharine look to something a bit more urbane.

Dress Camp can only be described it he simplest of terms and comparisons.  Here is my take away from this definitely street wear savvy collection aimed at both young men and women.  I would like you to think the following; what if Addidas and Donatella and Gianni Versace collaborated with YSL (the original one) who then met Roberto cavalla Cavalli and then jointly designed a collection with Ricardo Tisci of Givenchy who then meets and teams up with Jeremy Scott.  Take a look and see if you don’t agree!  And you may want to add a dash of Jean Paul Gaultier into the mix.

http://www.dresscamp.jp

http://www.motonari-ono.com

Ne-Net & Degree Fahrenheit Tokyo Collections Spring 2013

Again these are 2 collections that are polar opposites of each other; one of them is more traditionally “Japanese” inspired while the other is decidedly more European inspired.

Degree Fahrenheit is most definitely inspired from the current school of European designers.  References might be found from Lanvin, Pucci, Jil Sander and maybe even Elie Saab.  The collection was presented in all white which certainly becomes an issue but the clothes are definitely more classically designed and for European and North American consumption.  What can be gleaned from the grouping is that there is a possibility that some Japanese designers are suffering from what I call “NY Syndrome” which is when the collections showed after Europe, the designers were often said to be using the Europeans as immediate inspiration.  All this being said, the take away is simply that there are some good clothes here but they need to have a bit more originality and some better “fitting” when doing runway.

Ne-Net is most definitely of the Yohji, Rei and Junya  school of design and just in case that isn’t enough, toss in Marc  Jacobs, Thom Browne  and Marni as design inspirations.  The end result is very “emperor’s new clothes”  and certainly greatly influenced by the great and original Japanese designers of the 20^th century.  This time I am not sure I can say that the collection needs to be dissected as there are so many distractions going that it is hard to know for sure if this is the case.  The head gear alone can fill an exhibition and the incessant layering that is so prevalent in Marc Jacobs’ collections surely takes away from what might be hidden within the strata of clothes.  I believe that there are those who do it better and within this category there is no need to increase the stable of designers who offer apparel that looks like this.

http://tokyo-mbfashionweek.com/en/brands/views/A%20DEGREE%20FAHRENHEIT

http://ne-net.net/index.html

Facetasm ... Adeam .. Tokyo Collections Spring 2013

 こんにちは Tokyo .. Facetasm .. Adeam

Fashion week Tokyo is in full swing. If one is so inclined to endure the fashion week that goes on endlessly, then Tokyo is the next logical destination.  Traditionally Tokyo designers have echoed the likes of “Comme, Yohji and Junya” but there seems to be a trend or perhaps it is an evolution that brings Tokyo fashion to a new level.  There are European influences to be seen as well as those of the most favored American designers who have built huge followings in Japan to the point of iconographic status.

Adeam is a collection I am not familiar with but am impressed with its “western” approach to fashion.  The collection is commercial, in a good way without being boring, very wearable in a fashionable way and very pretty but not in a prissy way.  The collection slews on the younger side but with plenty of options for women of any age.  My take away is that the offering for Spring 2013 was far more inventive and creative than may shows that took place during NY collections. 

Facetasm has certainly brought to the light the “western” influence of one or two very high profile American designers and they would be Marc Jacobs and Thom Browne.  Unquestionably their influences are felt here and to some degree quite effectively even though this reviewer is equally flummoxed by the Japanese vision as I am with the orginals!  I am sure that one must dissect this collection in order to wear it in the real word and I do believe that there are pieces of great merit buried within the overly layered turnouts on the runway.  The most evident attribute of the collection is the designer’s sense of humor which goes a long way during the seriousness that occurs during the fashion cycle of seasons.

http://www.facetasm.jp/ 

http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/international-style-tokyo-fashion-week-spring-2013-adeam-facetasm

http://www.adeamonline.com/about_e.html