Again these are 2 collections that are polar opposites of
each other; one of them is more traditionally “Japanese” inspired while the
other is decidedly more European inspired.
Degree Fahrenheit
is most definitely inspired from the current school of European designers. References might be found from Lanvin, Pucci,
Jil Sander and maybe even Elie Saab. The
collection was presented in all white which certainly becomes an issue but the
clothes are definitely more classically designed and for European and North
American consumption. What can be
gleaned from the grouping is that there is a possibility that some Japanese
designers are suffering from what I call “NY Syndrome” which is when the
collections showed after Europe, the designers were often said to be using the
Europeans as immediate inspiration. All
this being said, the take away is simply that there are some good clothes here
but they need to have a bit more originality and some better “fitting” when
doing runway.
Ne-Net is most
definitely of the Yohji, Rei and Junya
school of design and just in case that isn’t enough, toss in Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne and Marni as design inspirations. The end result is very “emperor’s new
clothes” and certainly greatly
influenced by the great and original Japanese designers of the 20th
century. This time I am not sure I can
say that the collection needs to be dissected as there are so many distractions
going that it is hard to know for sure if this is the case. The head gear alone can fill an exhibition
and the incessant layering that is so prevalent in Marc Jacobs’ collections
surely takes away from what might be hidden within the strata of clothes. I believe that there are those who do it
better and within this category there is no need to increase the stable of
designers who offer apparel that looks like this.
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