Let me preface this by addressing all the trendsters who
will turn up their collective noses at this collection by saying that “you guys” are
the ones who are by buying by brand and not by fashion. Yeah you are!! If it’s
hyped and fawned over and seen everywhere then you want it just to fit in, be
cool and yet none of it is really cool when in fact most of it is fugly. Staying
on that thread, even the Armani customer buys by brand but Armani remains
unequivocally true to the brand’s DNA. No one is shopping for a new customer
chez Armani as he is the master of nuance and massaging his vision season and
after season; it can be said that the devil is in the details and indeed that is
true here.
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The take away from the collection is that it is undoubtedly all
about the jacket… whether it be abbreviated in silhouette or snugger than usual
or loose and it is relentlessly paired with a soft pant. The color story is traditional
Italian Spring navy blue combined with 500 shades of grey all topped off with a
whiteout blizzard of glaring blinding optical white … the palette is
quintessential Armani including the occasional pops of color. Each proffered
look is about simplicity and yes it is definitive sprezzatura… pant, jacket,
maybe a shirt, a sweater or vest and a
simple casual shoe, it is not even 5 easy pieces … most of them are just 2.
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Speaking of the nuance and massaging, we need to discuss the
patterns and textures that came out endlessly and preventing any sort of ennui inducing
repetition. Take note the covered buttons, the variety of lapel treatments, the
overall shape of the jackets, the seaming, and the total picture is to be taken
as the message. Armani is usually a sort of dichotomy of a collection that separates
the buttoned up slick as opposed to the casual sort of I just threw this on,
but today it was all about relaxed. Just look at the casting, scruffy sexy
young men with hair carefully askew and wreaking of testosterone and yeah they
look rich!
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Now we go the traditional fabrication of spring in Milan which
is of course linen but add that to seersucker, suede, leather, textures, patternings,
cottons and wool and you have that bouillabaisse/ciambotta that is the Armani
style. Usually there are some tricky pants, knits or shirts within but not this
time; this is balls out 100% pure Giorgio Armani. This what he built and this is
what he delivers in spades.
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P.S. imagine no jogging pants rarely a trainer on the foot,
models who looked like men and clothes designed for men who want to feel rich
and urbane rather than of the moment or look at me look at me ... aren’t I hot... don’t I
look young!... AND if you wanna call me old fashioned .. be my guest ! Oh and it's not my favorite Armani collection but I'm in 100%
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